Spiitz' Bully 2 build a.k.a. "Hammond"

[MountainStorm]

I can just imagine the result of touching those leads together by accident.

[Jørgen]

Nice build thread! You really do it the proper way from the start, no shortcuts here!

[josh6575]

That makes me nervous too. I cut one at time off of the plug and solder it to the new one.

Originally Posted by MountainStorm

I can just imagine the result of touching those leads together by accident.

[Master Basher]

Some folks are using deans micros now. U might wanna check into it. I am switching to them so far. I like them but there are pros and cons.

[Spiitz Travsky]

Originally Posted by Master Basher

Some folks are using deans micros now. U might wanna check into it. I am switching to them so far. I like them but there are pros and cons.

Yeah, I am not sold on the normal Dean's connector. Although I feel boxed in because all my vehicles and batteries use them.

They are not terrible by any means but they are too expensive and a pain to solder. The more affordable knock offs use crap plastic that melt too easily when soldering.

I like any plug that has a well where you can pool solder and then dip the wire into it. Bullet connectors for example are very easy to work with for this reason. Keeps it clean and creates a perfect joint.

I actually liked the XT-60 plug that came on these batteries, but a quick search on google showed that spares were only available out of country.



I am not making that mistake...

[Master Basher]

^ I made an adapter with a deans male to a deans micro so I can use all of my batteries like they are now, and not have to do new connectors. I would highly recommend trying this. The micros are much easier to connect than the regular deans, but they are more easily damaged as well.

[Spiitz Travsky]

Not a bad suggestion. The regular Dean's are tough to get on and off sometimes.

[Tossedman]

Originally Posted by Master Basher

Some folks are using deans micros now. U might wanna check into it. I am switching to them so far. I like them but there are pros and cons.

What's the amp rating on the Deans Micros? How many amps does a crawler pull?

[Spiitz Travsky]

The 2 pin micros are rated for 10amps. The ultra is rated for 50amps. The Ultra has a high load capacity with low resistance.

With two high power motors and an ultra high power servo the Ultra seems prudent.

Anything 1/18 scale or lower would probably be fine though.

[Master Basher]

Originally Posted by Tossedman

What's the amp rating on the Deans Micros? How many amps does a crawler pull?

I looked into this, but I am not concerned now. I don't pull trailers with my crawler, and I don't trail ride with it either. Of all the parts getting hot on my rig, the connector isn't one of them, so the micro is fine for my use. The winner of the east coast championship event last weekend was using micros exclusively as well.

The micro is much easier to connect and disconnect.

[Master Basher]

Originally Posted by Tossedman

What's the amp rating on the Deans Micros? How many amps does a crawler pull?

Rating only means what that plug is "rated" for during constant use. It doesn't mean that more amperage won't flow than the rating. If my crawler was pulling too many amps for it, it would heat up and melt. This is not the case, so I am fine.

Here it is if you wanna try it out. I like the micros.

[Spiitz Travsky]

WOW, that is far tinier than I imagined!

[IvVaum]

i use XT-60 on all my batteries and esc connections…i love them…they work great…easy to solder…cleans up real well…and they're inexpensive on ebay…i would definitely recommend them over any other type of connectors…

i hate the traxxas…the ec5 and ec3 are a pain and u constantly have to worry about male/female ends…same goes for the deans…these don't solder as well as the xt-60 and don't look as clean…

xt-60 all the way.

Originally Posted by Spiitz Travsky

Yeah, I am not sold on the normal Dean's connector. Although I feel boxed in because all my vehicles and batteries use them.

They are not terrible by any means but they are too expensive and a pain to solder. The more affordable knock offs use crap plastic that melt too easily when soldering.

I like any plug that has a well where you can pool solder and then dip the wire into it. Bullet connectors for example are very easy to work with for this reason. Keeps it clean and creates a perfect joint.

I actually liked the XT-60 plug that came on these batteries, but a quick search on google showed that spares were only available out of country.



I am not making that mistake...

[Master Basher]

is this build complete yet? what is your total weight? I'm in at 4lb 2oz, it'll go up a little when my v3 slw wheels come in. I broke 2 cf wheel centers within a few days of playing around, so I'm done with the cf wheels, unless they are a sturdy thick build. I figure the slw will never break, so I'm going with them, also, need a little weight in all the corners as well.

[Spiitz Travsky]

Originally Posted by Master Basher

is this build complete yet? what is your total weight? I'm in at 4lb 2oz, it'll go up a little when my v3 slw wheels come in. I broke 2 cf wheel centers within a few days of playing around, so I'm done with the cf wheels, unless they are a sturdy thick build. I figure the slw will never break, so I'm going with them, also, need a little weight in all the corners as well.

Apologies for the delay. I have been away on business so have not been able to work on posting my progress. Hopefully I can finish up this weekend when I get back.

Here is a quick teaser video on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1G4Nqqj7Pw

I will make sure to weigh the completed rig. Are you using any brass weights up front?

[Master Basher]

Yeah im using the stock weights right now. Im really curious to see your weight. My v1 wheels came in and now im waiting on foams to complete the switch to aluminum wheels. Also, did you just use a die straight on the 1/8" uppers, 5-32? How did you thread them and then what ends did you use? I still have 3/16" uppers and am fixing to go 1/8th.

[Spiitz Travsky]

DLux threaded my upper links so I am not 100% what threading he used, but I was able to use the smaller Revo ends to hand thread them onto the rods. I believe they were the 1942 Revo ends.

I should be able to weigh the rig when my motors get back from HH. I had to send them back again to fix the timing. Hopefully they get back before the weekend, but worst case they will come back next week.

[Spiitz Travsky]

Originally Posted by Master Basher

what is your total weight? I'm in at 4lb 2oz, it'll go up a little when my v3 slw wheels come in.

I am at 4lb without the motors, but including the battery, and two HH Puller 500 motors weigh a total of 1lb. This puts me right at 5lb.

The only way I could shave any meaningful weight would be to remove the brass knuckle weights and replace all the metal spacers and hardware with plastic and aluminum. I could also go with graphite or carbon upper links, but Ti links really don't weigh that much.

Since most of the weight is low and in the front I expect it should have a fairly good COG.

I never intended to build an ultra light rig, but is being below 4lbs even a reasonable target for most people? Is 5lb considered heavy?

EDIT: Holmes Hobbies website actually shows a spec weight of 5.1 oz or 144g. The details weight shows .50 lbs. I suspect the shipping weight is the details value and the spec weight is for just the motor.

I can now safely add a quarter pounder with cheese. Maybe even some fries. You gotta feed the beast right?

[Master Basher]

I don't understand how you are that heavy. I wasn't trying to build light either, I just wasn't putting on pig heavy stuff and I ended up light enough for me. I remember you did use velvet shocks, I used scx plastic, that has to be a little of the weight, but still not sure how you have a whole extra pound. I hope going aluminum on the wheels doesn't add too terribly much, as I like the 4lb 2oz mark.

I thought my 5.5lb crawlers were heavy, I even have a bully 1 that is 6+, and that is totally unacceptable for me. That kinda of weight means you are breaking or bending something every time it takes a tumble.

Originally Posted by Spiitz Travsky

I am at 4lb without the motors, but including the battery, and two HH Puller 500 motors weigh a total of 1lb. This puts me right at 5lb.

The only way I could shave any meaningful weight would be to remove the brass knuckle weights and replace all the metal spacers and hardware with plastic and aluminum. I could also go with graphite or carbon upper links, but Ti links really don't weigh that much.

Since most of the weight is low and in the front I expect it should have a fairly good COG.

I never intended to build an ultra light rig, but is being below 4lbs even a reasonable target for most people? Is 5lb considered heavy?

EDIT: Holmes Hobbies website actually shows a spec weight of 5.1 oz or 144g. The details weight shows .50 lbs. I suspect the shipping weight is the details value and the spec weight is for just the motor.

I can now safely add a quarter pounder with cheese. Maybe even some fries. You gotta feed the beast right?

-went and looked at you build again and I guess it's all that military grade spec stuff you used to make your rig bullet proof. It really is a top notch quality way to make a rig, but it added that extra pound that you have.

[Spiitz Travsky]

Originally Posted by Master Basher

-went and looked at you build again and I guess it's all that military grade spec stuff you used to make your rig bullet proof. It really is a top notch quality way to make a rig, but it added that extra pound that you have.

What do you mean by bullet proofing?

The sheathing on the electronics added very little weight. Swapping out the stock Al body spacers with nicer Al versions added minimal weight and adds some nominal strength over the few plastic spacers included.

Having held all of the individual parts in my hand, I am guessing the YTC DA chassis, velvet shocks, steel hardware, and Al wheels add the most weight compared to other possible setups.

The chassis has a ton of great features but might be considered large when compared to other more minimalist designs. I personally like the design and predict it will take a beating.

The shocks definitely feel way heavier than plastic shocks but man are they smooth, thin, and strong.

Compared to CF wheels these SLW's are heavier, but I don't think you will regret the trade off for durability.

What chassis are you using, how much do your motors weigh, and did you include the battery in your weight?