Tom G’s Bully 2 SuDu build

[Tom G]

Chassis DravTech SuDu Pro 2
Axles RC4WD Bully II Comp Axles
Front: Dlux Knuckle weighs with OFNA shafts
Rear: Titanium axles shafts
Both ends my Aluminum Upper 4 link mounts
Titanium Upper & Lower 4 links by me
Wheels: CF with narrowed Voodoo’s silver and blue dots
CI double duce narrow foams
Shocks: Axial 7mm Icon internally limited with my sliders on the rear

Electric Parts
Motors: Holmes Puller 500 Flow 35T vented brush hoods
Servo: Protek RC 170T
ESC’s Holmes Torque Master BR Mini Dual
Castle Bec
Battery’s: Trinigy Nano tech 450 mAh 3s
Attachment 323892

Some of the changes from stock.

Front: Tubes & C hubs machined to accept the Dlux parts, rears tubes drilled out to match the weight of the front’s.

Replaced both the upper 4 link mounts with my custom 7075 T6 Alum. after 1 of the stock'rs broke.

Attachment 323893
Attachment 323894

Changed the 4 links to a 45/55 ratio
I need to make a rear chassis brace the rear shocks come up 3/16's short of full compression.

I didn’t like the width of the upper Cab so I narrowed from 3” to 2” (the rear shock slider’s bring it back to legal USRCCA 3” width
Attachment 323895



Built this a couple of months ago ran it at our last WARCRC club comp and was pretty happy with the way it drives right out of the box.
Just a few more Pic's

[karajabola]

Nice build. Mind if I ask a newb question? Why choose the Flow Puller over the Crawl Puller?

I'm trying to make this decision for my own bully build (first comp crawler)

Thanks

[Erik D_lux]

Man, youre a busy guy with all your cars! Looks great!

Is there any way to change the steering links? That steering arm is on borrowed time with that spacer like that. Maybe move the rod end to the bottom of the servo horn?

[Tom G]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Man, youre a busy guy with all your cars! Looks great!

Is there any way to change the steering links? That steering arm is on borrowed time with that spacer like that. Maybe move the rod end to the bottom of the servo horn?

To dam many Grand-kids to keep happy

What timing Erik I was just going to place an order for your double shear parts. And make a new Ti. drag link. LMAO Just haven't had time.

The stock RC4WD drag link will not fit on the underside of the steering arms with out hitting the trans cases and the Servo horn Screw head hits the present drag when move to the lower side.

Just a few little issues that need tweaking.

[Tom G]

Originally Posted by karajabola

Nice build. Mind if I ask a newb question? Why choose the Flow Puller over the Crawl Puller?

I'm trying to make this decision for my own bully build (first comp crawler)

Thanks

These were bought ( less $$) for my Super while the Brood SisU's ' where in Eddies shop for repair.

They are nice 2.2 motors lots of low end torque and predictable smooth throttle response. Plus smaller in size & weight then the standard 500 size motor

[Erik D_lux]

Hmmm. Looks like you may be running enough scrub to run the double sheer plates on this car? If so, thats pretty cool! I wish I had the room to run them on my 2.2p car!

[Tom G]

Have not updated this thread for quite some time. The truck has been working so well ( better then my driving skills )I was reluctant to change it.

A month ago I made some rear knuckle weight's for my Super Truck they seamed to help so thought I'd give them a try on the Pro truck.

The one parameter I wanted to maintain was the use of my existing 2.2 CF wheels. I know Tobias @ Dravtech has a REALLY nice set of 3d printed holders to fit the Bully V2 axles but they require using different wheels like the Dlux Loaded Dice wheels.

Used some scrap 1/2 " Delrin I had laying around the shop for prototyping. If the work out I'll redo them with a better material later probably G-10. I'm not a fan of Delrin it has a tendency to stress crack .

Attachment 341091
Attachment 341095

Attachment 341092

After some testing if i think more weight is need I'll order some Tungsten slugs like the ones they us on Pine Wood Derby cars

Attachment 341093

They tuck in nicely inside the wheels with nothing protruding out to get hung-up on.
Attachment 341094

[Tom G]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Man, youre a busy guy with all your cars! Looks great!

Is there any way to change the steering links? That steering arm is on borrowed time with that spacer like that. Maybe move the rod end to the bottom of the servo horn?

Yup did that some time ago after I made a Ti drag link

[chevotafun]

Looking good Tom

[Tom G]

So after some testing on the practice pile this AM (on damp mosey rock). Tried several very tough off camber & vertical lines with and with out the rear weights. I did notice some improvement with the rear weights at least enough worth trying them at the next comp. I'm able to attend

Need to see if I can find some 1/2 inch G-10. The Delrin makes it difficult to get the set screws tight enough so they don't move on the lockers also need some Tungsten slug's for just a little more weight . Right now with the brass slugs there only .95 oz per-side.

[chevotafun]

Nice, good to hear Tom.
Maybe you should bring that thing up this weekend to test it in a comp?

[Tom G]

So after the initial test/tuning decided I liked the way the truck handled with rear weights. So fired off the computer and wrote the G-Code and made a couple set's out of 7075. For my Truck and my Son's Hulksta Riddler

Replaced the brass weights with some Pinewood Derby Tungsten weight's Settled on 1.9 oz per side for now

[LeePin]

Originally Posted by Tom G

So after the initial test/tuning decided I liked the way the truck handled with rear weights. So fired off the computer and wrote the G-Code and made a couple set's out of 7075. For my Truck and my Son's Hulksta Riddler

Replaced the brass weights with some Pinewood Derby Tungsten weight's Settled on 1.9 oz per side for now

Attachment 343149

Attachment 343150

Attachment 343151

Now I definitely have to look you up when I come up to WA. I'm just finishing my first CNC machine for my home shop, and I look like a deer in headlights trying to wrap my head around the software.

[Tom G]

Originally Posted by Tom G

So after the initial test/tuning decided I liked the way the truck handled with rear weights. So fired off the computer and wrote the G-Code and made a couple set's out of 7075. For my Truck and my Son's Hulksta Riddler

Replaced the brass weights with some Pinewood Derby Tungsten weight's Settled on 1.9 oz per side for now

Attachment 343149

Attachment 343150

Attachment 343151

I have ad several request to make some of my rear wheel weights

VERY Sorry
I don'''t make parts for other people. ( except for few close local friends )Its a hobby that I do not want to turn in to a job AGAIN.
very
I'm sure 1 of the Crawler manufactures like
Dlux
DravTech
Hulkstia Engineering
Krazed Built
Would be willing to help you out just show them the picture.

[LeePin]

I'm not looking for parts, just needing some pointers on CAD/CAM. Good job on the weights btw.

[Tom G]

Originally Posted by lpinney

I'm not looking for parts, just needing some pointers on CAD/CAM. Good job on the weights btw.

Not trying to be a butt-head here

There are 2 methods for learning CAD/Cam and that greatly relies on what 3d design program Ur using.

SWAG ( scientific wild ass guess) Trial and error /or go to Ur local Community Collage and take a class

Since I'm a retired CNC Shop owner/machinist we used exclusively Auto-desk/Inventor which is very $$$$$$$ for the home hobbyist machinist

Inventor | Mechanical Design & 3D CAD Software | Autodesk

There lots of less $$$ KIND of user friendly CAD/Cams out there
TNX for the kudos & gud luck on Ur quest