"Loaner" Bully 2 RTR

[motoj550]

actually i meant bottom of skid to top of topper in mm or inches

[84yoda]

88mm.

[motoj550]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

88mm.

Thanks man, wanting to know what it was, looking for a new crawler to build as iv'e been using my xr10 for 5 years now with BWD moa wedge v2 chassis and it's quite tall at 3 7/8", just lookin for a new upgrade and iv'e noticed the newer chassis' look shorter now. prob helps with rollover recovery.

[AlwayzStoned]

What size shrink wrap did you use

[JoelTGM]

Would you be able to explain how shock position changes the performance? I tried mine on some steep rock faces today and without knuckle weights it was very easy to tip backwards. Of course I need weights but I'm wondering if changing shock position will help with that?

[cboggs]

Originally Posted by JoelTGM

Would you be able to explain how shock position changes the performance? I tried mine on some steep rock faces today and without knuckle weights it was very easy to tip backwards. Of course I need weights but I'm wondering if changing shock position will help with that?

Got a pic of your setup?

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by JoelTGM

Would you be able to explain how shock position changes the performance? I tried mine on some steep rock faces today and without knuckle weights it was very easy to tip backwards. Of course I need weights but I'm wondering if changing shock position will help with that?

The more laid back/down you have the shocks, the less they work.

[tapped-out]

Laying shocks down will have a softer feel. Standing shocks up will have a stiffer feel.


Try moving shock location on the same steep rock rock face to see what works best for you.
try moving shocks back 1 hole in the rear. Trial and error best way to learn.

[JoelTGM]

Originally Posted by cboggs

Got a pic of your setup?

http://i.imgur.com/zqv58s2.jpg

I'm not sure the strategy behind laying the shocks down or whatever. I see one rig with front shocks laid down and rear is more straight up, but right now mine is the opposite of the that.

[Evo93]

Originally Posted by JoelTGM

http://i.imgur.com/zqv58s2.jpg

I'm not sure the strategy behind laying the shocks down or whatever. I see one rig with front shocks laid down and rear is more straight up, but right now mine is the opposite of the that.

Picture with no body would help. Yours is a stock bully 2 rtr right?
The stock rears seemed too short to lay down more. My big bores are down more but they are a quarter inch longer.
The fronts you could play with to see how you like it. Its all preference and how you drive from what I can tell. Everyone's rocks are different.

Also start your own thread.

[nzcrawl]

Hey guys, with the talk of fear of breaking the carbon parts of the chassis & them not being available separately, I thought I would post this here re what I do with my OG Bully with chaotic crawler carbon chassis that will greatly help with smashing or damaging the carbon chassis.
I get some rubber automotive vacuum/windscreen washer hose. Slit it down the middle. Mark along it with a marker pen where the screws / cross links are and cut out squares so the tube fits on properly.
Secure with whatever you want. (I use fishing line. Its very inconspicuous and pretty much free as opposed to cable ties.) Use whatever you want though.
Put it on any high points of the chassis.
This will save you money.


and after falling on its roof about 50 times the only damage to show for it is a missing fishing line tie

Cheers

[nzcrawl]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

The more laid back/down you have the shocks, the less they work.

edit again; now I realize I misread your statement and it has nothing to do with droop. Ah well this maybe useful to someone anyway. sorry lol
and I agree, my back shocks which are (very laid back) do nothing other than keep the back squat when climbing (due to the droop springs), and the external springs keep the chassis off the links the rest of the time.

and my droop rant;
you need droop if you don't want it to tip over backwards.
The rear needs to have a strong enough droop to stay "squat" even when its up on its back wheels. and/or the links needs to be positioned so it rests back on them, as opposed to wanting to arch its back outwards when it leans back on them.
In my image below, the droop springs in the rear are strong enough, and the links at such an angle to stop the back of it arching outwards when upright like that (staying "squat" I say), allowing it to climb pretty much vertical without it flopping backwards.
It does not stop the suspension working at all. It still has full travel. If it was go tip forwards more the axles will droop down/ the crawler will arch its back to meet the ground.


here I made a video. shows full suspension movement and the ability to stand almost vertical with droop setup
https://youtu.be/zPO_PQrIEUo

Maybe we shoudlent even call it "suspension" because I sort of agree its not really suspension in the sense that it suspends the body / cockpit or attempts to reduce movement within it like a 1:1.
The sole purpose of this "suspension" is to maximize the amount of time that all 4 wheels can contact the ground, with zero regard to what "suspension" does is the normal sense. Normal suspension tries to keep all 4 wheels in contact with the ground, while keeping the body off the ground, and maximizing comfort. We don't care about any of that.
Literally, the only reason the external springs are even there on my setup is to stop the chassis bottoming out on the links.

[mr4x4king]

I read thru all of this and i did not see anything about bearings or bushings. If gears are going bad because of bearing failures. What is every one dong? Better bearings or bushings

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

[mikemcE]

MODS....... where has this gone ??

Loaner Bully 2 RTR....


Hang up and Drive

[cboggs]

Either the upgrade bearings from RC4WD or Fast Eddie are a lot better than the stock bearings. I've run both with no issues, just keep in mind no bearings will last forever. Always a good habit to replace after a season of use.