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Old 08-23-2016, 09:42 AM   #21
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More impressive is the email John sent today..... Asking how I liked it, and if any troubles to tell him, if I love it, tell the world. He also implied he listens to the crawlers needs and advice....
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Old 08-23-2016, 07:32 PM   #22
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Punched the tires today' WHAT a difference, I was able to do a 90 degree drop, hang and control down.......

landing upright will take a bit more, But the more practice I get digging, the more fun I will have
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Old 08-24-2016, 05:06 PM   #23
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Well here it is, and after the first pack in the living room, WOW !!!! Can't wait for the weekend!


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Old 08-24-2016, 07:42 PM   #24
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Way to go pal... Keep up the good work and go get this bad boy some war scars...
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:51 PM   #25
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Proper sized batteries in on Saturday. Pair of team brood 850 3s
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Old 08-24-2016, 10:03 PM   #26
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Im liking team broods 850 3s batterys. Perfect size for the bully. Im just not used to these short run times of 850 batterys though. Lol. I need to order more batterys.

Also, clock your chubs back second to last hole. Then put both steering on top of the knuckles to fix that angled steering. I also added a small spacer to drag link (top steering link) and your servo horn will be straight and rest of your steering will cycle and like you better.
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Old 08-25-2016, 05:21 AM   #27
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I get the link positioning but been told not to clock the front...
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:17 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemcE View Post
More impressive is the email John sent today..... Asking how I liked it, and if any troubles to tell him, if I love it, tell the world. He also implied he listens to the crawlers needs and advice....
You've got me interested and it will be my first expensive servo purchase. Compared to the TowerPro's I've been using the last 8 months which have been fine on my scalers but struggles at times on this rig.

Quote:
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I get the link positioning but been told not to clock the front...
I've read on a few threads that people are clocking them to the 2nd from last hole too.
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:29 AM   #29
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Who said not to clock it? Clocking it is needed but 8 degree knuckle arent. Maybe that's what you heard? Plus that caster helps on climbs.
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:06 AM   #30
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Do I need the jato ends in the front also ?
I clocked the rear and used the longer links.motor tucked up now

I read about not using the 8 degree from CBoggs ....he also said to not use the longer link ends out front?

Last edited by mikemcE; 08-25-2016 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:07 AM   #31
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I get the link positioning but been told not to clock the front...
Don't add jato rod end to front upper links (clock axle up).
But you do want to turn the C's back at the axle tubes..
2 different things.
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:10 AM   #32
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Those are the front and rear screws in the slots ?
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:14 AM   #33
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Yes 2 screws hold on the C's. You might have to unbolt the tierod and drag link from knuckles. Remove wheel, Then remove the two screws pull knuckle, C and axle all in 1 piece off far enough to turn/click the C back.

Last edited by tapped-out; 08-25-2016 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:30 AM   #34
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Great , thanks !
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:18 AM   #35
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U dont have to take wheel off but you can. Disconnect both sides of steering from knuckle, undo 2 screws and pull whole assembly out and rotate it back, then do the same on other side. Then put both steering links on top of the knuckle. The side with both steering attached might not clear the tire. I added slw spacers to each side to help clear tires rubbing the links and also steering links cleared tire. Gear head (rpp hobby) and dlux both sell slw spacer. There cheap and you can mess with different widths instead of buy new slw hubs. The added width also helps with it being more stable.
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:24 AM   #36
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I have some GearHead spacers already
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:59 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tapped-out View Post
Yes 2 screws hold on the C's. You might have to unbolt the tierod and drag link from knuckles. Remove wheel, Then remove the two screws pull knuckle, C and axle all in 1 piece off far enough to turn/click the C back.

Will the steering arms move up or down....I'm not doing something...

Oh........Never Mind !

Last edited by mikemcE; 08-25-2016 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 08-25-2016, 06:02 PM   #38
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Up, I'll find a picture for you..

So you figured it out?
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Old 08-25-2016, 06:19 PM   #39
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I think you figured it out... pic below is my berg with knuckle turned back. Set bully c's/knuckles close to mine rig... hope pic helps.


Look at both sides you'll noticed knuckle steering arm points up (kinda)
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:08 PM   #40
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When I first tried it I kept hitting battery tray( my angle holding)
The other way links were worse! Did get them done, do need my spacers to prevent rubbing. Did install br/xl/mini and love it. Even have room for a "rider".......
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