First comp build, tandem build with the wife

[tnt-salvage]

Here are some quick pics before I got for dinner. Hope to get some more done tonight.






Finished the smashed fxr's. Took the large cap off for now. May add it back down the road and mount in up in the chassis? Only reason for it is for 4s lipo haha


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[Xtacy33]

I don't have experience with CF link mounts yet but is that one thick enough? Just asking if you know because I have some of that lying around somewhere and thinking of doing it myself. I was even thinking to glue 2 pieces of that thickness together.

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[tnt-salvage]

Originally Posted by Xtacy33

I don't have experience with CF link mounts yet but is that one thick enough? Just asking if you know because I have some of that lying around somewhere and thinking of doing it myself. I was even thinking to glue 2 pieces of that thickness together.

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Yes, I have now went back to the stock mount for now, reason being I was not the right shape. I did have a second to double them up to stiffen it, but had Rod end alignment issues. Might just order the hulkster ones..


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[tnt-salvage]

Well I have been a little under the weather to keep this build thread up to date.
A few more parts came in the mail and I have been slowly plugging away.

One is finished to the point of waiting for the electronics plates to show up.
The second needs steering and rear Rod ends changed.
Our skins are still being made but should have them in a week I hope.

Here are some pictures I took while building.

Bec location on mine



Start of all the heat shrinking to hide as much colour as I could.



All the scraps I was able to cut out of the wiring on mine.


Rtr weight but no knuckle weights or skins.


The pair together in there current stages.

[Xtacy33]

Ahhhh probably would be hard to get them right. Does anyone know the weight savings with the CF link mount? Or is it just stronger than the stock mount?(seen a couple posts of broken mounts)

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[tnt-salvage]

Originally Posted by Xtacy33

Ahhhh probably would be hard to get them right. Does anyone know the weight savings with the CF link mount? Or is it just stronger than the stock mount?(seen a couple posts of broken mounts)

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Yes I read about the stock ones breaking as well. The carbon ones HE is selling look to be very strong. Also the extra support from the top of gear box. I'd say weight savings will be minimal since the extra support and screws, but you gain 2 extra holes for clocking the axle which could be helpful?

[Xtacy33]

Thanks for the detailed info and it will help me figure out my future plans too.

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[tnt-salvage]

Originally Posted by Xtacy33

Thanks for the detailed info and it will help me figure out my future plans too.

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Your very welcome.. I really can't wait to actually get these out on the rocks and see how they work.. It will be uncharted waters from here on out for me.
Never "tuned" an RC yet. So I'm sure I'll be asking questions.. And getting tips from lots of guys here.

[tnt-salvage]

Hey guys, I have read a few different builds about servo issues. As posted I'm running 7980s. My question is, should I be using a short servo horn? I have the dynamite non clamping style. There are 3-4 holes I could use. My last 7980 I had
I just installed it and set my endpoints so it would stop just shy of max steering. This never gave me an issue.
Last night I read about the dead and is not set right? And they like to hunt for center? Should I buy a programmer?

[Curcal]

I haven't heard of this particular issue. I have a couple in my super that I needed to reprogram for more steering throw from the servo. But I haven't has i struggle to find center.

Power up the rig ant let the servo center itself before attaching the steering horn, usually works for me

[tnt-salvage]

Originally Posted by Curcal

I haven't heard of this particular issue. I have a couple in my super that I needed to reprogram for more steering throw from the servo. But I haven't has i struggle to find center.

Power up the rig ant let the servo center itself before attaching the steering horn, usually works for me

Thanks, I never had an issue with mine either...
I can't recall who's thread it was? But they took 2 out
And someone made the comment about them having a centring
Issue. Also made mention about the dead band. It may have been in the berg,xr10 sections? I wish I would have took better notes
As it was only a few days ago.
Mine works perfectly fine, I just don't want it to happen to me is why I asked about it

[Curcal]

You should be fine, but if not the programer is fairly cheap.

[tnt-salvage]

Just a quick update, had some more parts arrive. Hope to have pics tomorrow.
Ci foams
Ci cell block stands
Dravtech electronics plates.
Barry carbon electronics plates, might cut and only use the battery part?
Top right link hits and will not allow full compression.
Futaba 4px
Bags and bags of team associated factory team blue hardware
White rpm Rod ends long and short
Blue rpm Rod ends long and short
Couple thunder power 3s 480mah 70c batts
Two sets of j concepts ruptures.

Still to come are the Krawler koncepts skinz.
They will finally be complete and will be a shame
To scratch them all up.

[tnt-salvage]

Here are a few quick pictures. Wife's has the white rod ends. Mine had blue which might be getting switched out once skinz go on.. all the links are covered with heat shrink for the blacked out look.



Attachment 1



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[tnt-salvage]

I'm having a hard time getting the rear shocks to actually work? They seem to be lay down to much but don't see any other options. Might have to mount the shocks on the outside of the mount and use same hole as the lower links?

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by tnt-salvage

I'm having a hard time getting the rear shocks to actually work? They seem to be lay down to much but don't see any other options. Might have to mount the shocks on the outside of the mount and use same hole as the lower links?

Seems like you may need 4'' big bores to fix this. The belly seems too flat meaning the rear shocks are pulling the chassis down.

Could try the shock cap mod to them too and/or put longer shaft ends on them to lengthen them out. Maybe the cap mod itself could be enough.

The murdered out look looks cool with the links but Id be nervous its gonna grab the rocks instead of sliding over them. I know Lattice Innovations was playing around with anodizing Ti, maybe get in touch with BC Brian and see if they are still doing it and have them done that way.

Either way its cool seeing you and the wife having fun together with them and the build ups on them.

[Tom G]

Just pick up some 3mm long rod ends from RC4WD in stead of longer shocks

PN# Z-s1375

[tnt-salvage]

Thanks guys I will try to get to hobby shop before I leave for weekend.

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by tnt-salvage

I'm having a hard time getting the rear shocks to actually work? They seem to be lay down to much but don't see any other options. Might have to mount the shocks on the outside of the mount and use same hole as the lower links?

I tried this but felt the shock would get hit constantly on rocks so I went up 1 hole above lower links and put top of shock in the back last hole and it definitely helped a ton. Got the rear shocks working now.

[tnt-salvage]

Here is a sneak peak at the radio skin for mine. My bully xr10 and sportsman will all match this



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