Evos bully 2 rtr

[mikemcE]

I actually used a SW3 I had for another truck, didn't cog at all, had a good drag brake , but it was big and ugly




Hang up and Drive

[tapped-out]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

Seriously? Cogging is normal with one esc? No. This isn't a sensorless brushless setup. Lol

OP, stock esc is a joke. Yes it cogs and doesn't have a low voltage cut off either. Ditch the esc/dig switch, shocks and servo ASAP! Holmes dual esc and big bores or scx shocks. Servo, anything with at least 500oz.

But for the time being, you can swap out the esc and run a different one with the dig switch. I had an axial ae5 laying around so I put that in. Waaay better. But that's gone now and running a holmes setup.

84yoda is right it's probably more of motor stall not cogging. My assumption was Evo was calling motor stall Cogging.

Did all motor stall (cogging) go away with the ae5 esc?


Motor stall is normal with single esc...

[84yoda]

Its the esc, doesn't matter 1 or 2 motors. It doesn't have any low start control at all. It acts just like a sensor less brushless start up. And yes the cogging went away with the ae5 esc.

[UGLY]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

but it was ugly

Don't blame me for your esc problems....

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by UGLY

Don't blame me for your esc problems....

I think your jealous !!!!


Hang up and Drive

[Evo93]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

Seriously? Cogging is normal with one esc? No. This isn't a sensorless brushless setup. Lol

OP, stock esc is a joke. Yes it cogs and doesn't have a low voltage cut off either. Ditch the esc/dig switch, shocks and servo ASAP! Holmes dual esc and big bores or scx shocks. Servo, anything with at least 500oz.

But for the time being, you can swap out the esc and run a different one with the dig switch. I had an axial ae5 laying around so I put that in. Waaay better. But that's gone now and running a holmes setup.

Really an ae5? I have one on my shelf. Awesome I didn't realize the ESC was that crappy. I know that any half decent brushed motor shouldn't cog. But can I take the bec off of it and put it on the ae5? I'm not familiar with bec's yet.
Holmes is my plan but obviously my wallet needs a break.
Plan on getting the dual br from Holmes and the shv500 servo. Probably end up with a set of big bores. Would a normal set of traxxas shocks from a tmaxx be of any advantage you think? I have some of those too.

Originally Posted by tapped-out

84yoda is right it's probably more of motor stall not cogging. My assumption was Evo was calling motor stall Cogging.

Did all motor stall (cogging) go away with the ae5 esc?


Motor stall is normal with single esc...

No this was real cogging at low speed like a brushless sensor less setup. Seriously similar to my revo. Lol.

I believe ae5 and wp 1080 is the same thing. I have it in my mad torque.

Looks like its time to start soldering.
Thanks a ton everyone!

ALSO: where does everyone get that big shrink wrap? Ready to lose my dig case as well but want it protected.

[84yoda]

I didn't use the bec off stock esc. I went with a castle bec since it can push more amps.

I think the tmaxx use the tra2662 (4")? If so, those are 'big bores'. While those will work, personally I would limit them since there longer then stock. Stock up front is 4" long but you will probably need to reuse the bent rod end to clear the servo and that will make those 2662 shocks way to long. Stock rear is 3.5". So those 2662 are already to long. But again, they will work and perform better then stock for sure. Just a tad to long to get the best performance.

I found some heat shrink at my lhs but amain or ebay have plenty to choose from. I asked John at HH about his heat shrink and he said to email them and request it and they will add it to there site. But that will probably take some time.

[mikemcE]

I sent HH a email asking them for some shrink wrap like they use on BRmini duals, they sent me two pieces at n/c


Hang up and Drive

[tapped-out]

EBay is where I bought my heatshrink from.

[Evo93]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

I didn't use the bec off stock esc. I went with a castle bec since it can push more amps.

I think the tmaxx use the tra2662 (4")? If so, those are 'big bores'. While those will work, personally I would limit them since there longer then stock. Stock up front is 4" long but you will probably need to reuse the bent rod end to clear the servo and that will make those 2662 shocks way to long. Stock rear is 3.5". So those 2662 are already to long. But again, they will work and perform better then stock for sure. Just a tad to long to get the best performance.

I found some heat shrink at my lhs but amain or ebay have plenty to choose from. I asked John at HH about his heat shrink and he said to email them and request it and they will add it to there site. But that will probably take some time.

Yeah I'm not trying to spend anymore right now so I'm going to try to reuse it.
Don't want to burn the ae5 out before I can get a castle. Also to allow the relays to breath because the dig seems to get hot I was thinking of using liquid tape on the board of the dig and around the relays instead. Would this be alright?

[cboggs]

The AE5 esc should work much better and I recommend doing that if you already have one, its got lipo cutoff that the stock esc does not. Be aware if you go to dual esc's you'll also need a better 4 channel radio to control them. Im in the process of finally upgrading the "loaner" and will be going to a Tekin FXR and Castle BEC, I already have them from other projects. Also the shocks are getting swapped out for some SCX10 Icons. The rigs been beat on for a season and haven't had any real issues with it, cogging is almost not noticeable but I've heard of others that have been pretty bad. The esc swap should fix that. Also this is a comp rig, so the biggest battery I would recommend is an 850 size.

[UGLY]

Originally Posted by Evo93

Yeah I'm not trying to spend anymore right now

[Evo93]

Ae5 is all wired up I think I did a decent job actually. Getting better at soldering finally. Decased the dig unit, used liquid tape to cover it up.should've taken more than one pic before I put it in the truck. Kinda blurry. Put the dig on the bottom skid in the center and everything else above similar to before. Considering moving the receiver to the lower skid as well. Knuckle weights are on too!



Had to try the rock grabbers on. They don't rub at all

Threw a cheap tactic tx55 in until I buy a new servo. Needs to happen first.

Originally Posted by cboggs

The AE5 esc should work much better and I recommend doing that if you already have one, its got lipo cutoff that the stock esc does not. Be aware if you go to dual esc's you'll also need a better 4 channel radio to control them. Im in the process of finally upgrading the "loaner" and will be going to a Tekin FXR and Castle BEC, I already have them from other projects. Also the shocks are getting swapped out for some SCX10 Icons. The rigs been beat on for a season and haven't had any real issues with it, cogging is almost not noticeable but I've heard of others that have been pretty bad. The esc swap should fix that. Also this is a comp rig, so the biggest battery I would recommend is an 850 size.

The ae5 fixed absolutely all start up issues and cogging. I was hoping to get a spektrum dx4c when I go dual ESC will this work? My 850s should be here soon!
Do the scx10 shocks need to be limited like big bores when using them in this rig?

[tapped-out]

I used a stock plastic pivot ball from axial kits to limit my scx10 shocks internally. (Maybe 7mm)

[cboggs]

I had the spektrum dx4c at one time, it'll do what you need but I found it way more complicated than the Futaba 4pl or Airtronics MT4.

[Evo93]

Originally Posted by cboggs

I had the spektrum dx4c at one time, it'll do what you need but I found it way more complicated than the Futaba 4pl or Airtronics MT4.

Is it really that bad? Its less than half the price of the other two.

Originally Posted by tapped-out

I used a stock plastic pivot ball from axial kits to limit my scx10 shocks internally. (Maybe 7mm)

I'm not sure I know what you mean is there any threads about how to do this? Is it the same for most shocks?

[84yoda]

You put it inside the shock. Under the piston so the shocks dont fully extend out.

[tapped-out]

Made this video for you...... Watch it in fast forward video got really long... Pick up rcbro springs and springs cups you'll be ready to go.. IMO
REMEMBER FAST FORWARD.....

[Evo93]

Originally Posted by tapped-out

Made this video for you...... Watch it in fast forward video got really long... Pick up rcbro springs and springs cups you'll be ready to go.. IMO
REMEMBER FAST FORWARD.....

So can I ask the dumb question, why do this and lose travel length of the rod. When you could buy a shorter shock. Is the loss of travel worth it to have those shocks instead of others?
Also I was toying with this earlier. If I was using a 4" traxxas shock wouldn't I need two of those hollow balls per shaft to get it down to 3.5 .
Or am I missing something?
I have a bunch of 4" shocks from my tmaxx not the aluminum but figured they would be something to play with. Or should I forget them?

[tapped-out]

I'll let someone a little more tech savvy then I Answer your question.
However by adding internal spacer to the scx10 shocks it lower the COG center of gravity of your rig. The reason I remove external limiters is to gain back the lost shock travel..
I've been running my stock bodied scx10 shocks for yrs like in the video they work good for me..

More articulation doesn't make a better crawler.

You probably could modify your traxxas shocks.
I never have tried to run traxxas bigbores shocks so I can't help you there...

If you have the cash go to rcbros and order his already built scx10 shocks