Evos bully 2 rtr

[Evo93]

Hey everyone,
So my bully finally got here, couple things weren't very impressive. The amount of loose screws was pretty lame. That and the fact I was completely missing an axle pin to hold the hub to the axle.

Also the wires coming off the bottom of the motors and running on the bottom links. Seems like they are setting people up to fail and need to buy parts if they don't know much and are just jumping into it. Gear mesh wash terrible and it took a good set of needle nose pliers to get the motor bolt out that they had already stripped.

I'm a huge fan of the craftsmanship in these things but jeez.
I've already adjusted the stock upper link mounts as far clocked as I could at least from what I can figure out.
Went to fill the shocks and can not get them to compress if they are actually full. Do I need to change the plungers or drill holes what am I doing wrong here? Lol

However I live in new england so I have to go plow snow even though it was 55 yesterday. I would just get a new crawler before a couple snowstorms get here.

[mikemcE]

Its rtr oob.....
That doesn't mean perfect. Sounds like a couple of minor issues you figured out. Most of us replace the electronics, rewire and always check all screws and loctite them. I replaced the stock shocks springs with the optional ones, just a bit of oil in them is needed.


Hang up and Drive

[ssh22]

That gear mesh is hilarious! But yeah, @mikemcE is right. It's RTR, everything is assembled in a hurry... it's normal to have problems with the screws. But I so hate when some parts are missing!!!!
About the shocks, it's completely normal. You should never fill them at 100% ... there should be some free space so oil can circulate between the piston.

[Evo93]

I know but like the upper link mounts were about to fall off lol. But other than all that can't complain too much comparing it to the kit + all the electronics at a normal price alone would cost much more. So all in all I'm just happy to be getting started.
Good to know about the shocks mine came with 4 extra sets of springs. I'm going to try to keep it stock as possible until I get a better feel for everything.
Except for the Knuckle weights, should be here today. Ordered the rcbros with slug holders.
Hopefully the second set of batteries I ordered actually match the dimensions on the site and fit on my rig. The 1300mah I saw a few people recommend did not fit for me. Maybe they ran their batteries in a different location and I didn't notice in the thread.
Either way gotta wait for the snow to melt now.

[mikemcE]

1300 is a huge battery. I get laughed at for mine, most run 450 or 500's



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[Evo93]

That's what I ordered 850s. Believe I saw you post that in someone else's forum that's what made me decide on them. Is there a way I'm not seeing to clock the axles more or do I need to play with some jato end links or something.

I almost forgot it seems to be cogging at super low speeds too. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?

[mikemcE]

Front chubs can rotate, screws in front . Using longer rod ends(Jato) on uppers will also help.

I never had any cogging with mine, with all radios and esc's I've used. Stock pinions and 35t motors




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[Evo93]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Front chubs can rotate, screws in front . Using longer rod ends(Jato) on uppers will also help.

I never had any cogging with mine, with all radios and esc's I've used. Stock pinions and 35t motors

Awesome that's what I thought. Thanks.
I did move the motor wires to the top side of the motor. That shouldn't have affected anything right? This is my first time with motors with all this exposed stuff on the end haha. Sorry I know I sound like a dumby. If not I'll contact rc4wd about it thanks a lot for the speedy answers.

[mikemcE]

Yup top works fine. You can also switch polarity if one is backwards


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[UGLY]

The RPM long rod ends work well for clocking the axles. You can cut them to length to fine tune the wheelbase and you dont have threads sticking out of the rod ends.


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[UGLY]

Cboggs loaner bully thread will give you some good pointers.

"Loaner" Bully 2 RTR

[Evo93]

Originally Posted by UGLY

The RPM long rod ends work well for clocking the axles. You can cut them to length to fine tune the wheelbase and you dont have threads sticking out of the rod ends.


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I really like this idea. Really glad I didn't finish ordering jato ends before I saw this. Like the blue too.

Originally Posted by UGLY

Cboggs loaner bully thread will give you some good pointers.

"Loaner" Bully 2 RTR

Even though I've been through a ton of these build threads I've come to the realization that I need to go through them all again, now that I have a real truck in front of me.

[Evo93]

Just got a really dissapointing email back about the cogging
"As for the esc there is no adjustment for the cogging the only thing would be to get a different esc that allows you to go into it’s programing and make changes you want to it"
Pretty lame answer. Hopefully they upgrade it when the outcry 2 comes out, for future customers sake. But I think I will hardwire everything together at some point maybe all this wire and connections isn't helping.
Maybe it will get better when its more broken in. If not it will be much better when I save my pennies for a HH.

[mikemcE]

I removed all the bullets, but I toasted it from poor decasing


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[tapped-out]

Cogging/motor stall is normal with 1 esc.. You can try a larger pinion in front axle for example 13t front,12t rear this will help but won't fix the cogging.

BTW my 2cents the bully2 is a great rig for someone starting out... I haven't read rc4wd bully2 instruction manual but you should always go through and check all Nuts and Bolts before you drive any ready to run RC vehicle.

[Evo93]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

I removed all the bullets, but I toasted it from poor decasing


Hang up and Drive

So never had a chance to run it this way?
I don't like the cogging one bit. Start up sucks. Like driving my revo lol

[UGLY]

Originally Posted by Evo93

Just got a really dissapointing email back about the cogging
"As for the esc there is no adjustment for the cogging the only thing would be to get a different esc that allows you to go into it’s programing and make changes you want to it"
Pretty lame answer. Hopefully they upgrade it when the outcry 2 comes out, for future customers sake. But I think I will hardwire everything together at some point maybe all this wire and connections isn't helping.
Maybe it will get better when its more broken in. If not it will be much better when I save my pennies for a HH.

Bummer..... On another note, when you do go dual esc's it will really bring out the bully's capability.

Clean up the wiring and solder all the connections. It might clear up the cogging. Also make sure you have good pinion mesh and turn the pinion 1080* to make sure it has consistent mesh with the spur gear.

[UGLY]

Originally Posted by tapped-out

I haven't read rc4wd bully2 instruction manual but you should always go through and check all Nuts and Bolts before you drive any ready to run RC vehicle.

Good info. I prefer kit screws to be somewhat loose when assembled from the mfg. It makes disassembly and reassembly a snap and ensures there are no stripped screw heads. No rtr is really a rtr, gotta check everything.

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by tapped-out

Cogging is normal with 1 esc.. You can try a larger pinion in front axle for example 13t front,12t rear this will help but won't fix the cogging.

Seriously? Cogging is normal with one esc? No. This isn't a sensorless brushless setup. Lol

OP, stock esc is a joke. Yes it cogs and doesn't have a low voltage cut off either. Ditch the esc/dig switch, shocks and servo ASAP! Holmes dual esc and big bores or scx shocks. Servo, anything with at least 500oz.

But for the time being, you can swap out the esc and run a different one with the dig switch. I had an axial ae5 laying around so I put that in. Waaay better. But that's gone now and running a holmes setup.

[UGLY]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

But for the time being, you can swap out the esc and run a different one with the dig switch. I had an axial ae5 laying around so I put that in. Waaay better. But that's gone now and running a holmes setup.

Hobbywing wp1080 is another option