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Old 03-27-2015, 02:10 PM   #21
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Default Re: Challenge accepted

I already have a rx8 and 27t on 3s on the bench. Hoping that will do some sweet jump .
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Old 03-28-2015, 08:01 AM   #22
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Leave it to rc3wd to make a chassis that doesnt fit a majority of the bodies on the market. Not sure what to do now.
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:16 AM   #23
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Could shift the rear axle back a little. Get the front lined up and either use existing holes or drill your own for the rear so everything can shift.

May be your best shot
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:26 AM   #24
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I'll try that. If it doesnt work I'll order the defender 110 or short wb chassis. One of those 2 should fit something I got... I hope..
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:29 AM   #25
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SWB - Wheelbase: 9.53in
D110 - Wheelbase: 13in This is a full kit too.

Hope those help for a quick reference.

Stock TF2 - Wheelbase: 11.3in
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Old 03-28-2015, 11:24 AM   #26
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The TF2 chassis is designed specifically for the yota body. Especially with the leaf set up. I don't think the chassis was design with being able to fit other bodies in mind.

If you link it, it might give you other options maybe
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Old 03-28-2015, 11:42 AM   #27
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I have links but I'm trying to keep it leafed. Pretty much the only reason I bought the rig.
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Old 03-28-2015, 04:35 PM   #28
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We can rebuild it, we have the technology.

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Old 03-28-2015, 09:15 PM   #29
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The leafs then severely limits your body option to 11.3" wheelbase. Unless you want to hack up the chassis anyways... We have a guy who cut the chassis in half and extended it to fit the 4 door JK hard body
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:27 PM   #30
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Fawk it. Links will have to do.
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:39 PM   #31
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Better pic.
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Old 03-29-2015, 03:58 AM   #32
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Default Re: Challenge accepted

There's a couple of way to correct your wb issue. I personally, always set the bodies so the rear wheels are centered. the front if the axle is push forward is fine because most people in the 1:1 word move there axle forward 1/2-1", doing so helps with the approach angle.

2nd option, is to only mount the leafs using 1 screw into the axle, meaning you can drill out the middle hole of the leafs to accommodate a 3mm screw this way you can move the axle a long all 3 holes. 1 screw is typically enough to keep everything fine. You can always use the U bolt kit as well if you want a scaler look and more clamping.
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:45 AM   #33
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I'd much rather move the front axle forward. I'll keep trying your suggestions. I have u-bolts from a bruiser. maybe I can make them work.
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Old 03-29-2015, 07:35 PM   #34
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Tempting..
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:55 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djjiz View Post
Tempting..

Lol. I briefly ran a ROC 412 3100 on 2s in mine. I got plenty of giggles at the insane top end in 2nd gear, so I can only imagine what the 4500 would be like. But reality quickly set in when I realized that turning at that speed wasn't an option (though the barrel rolls were fun the first few times). Much happier with a Puller 13T now. I use other rigs for unnecessary speed grins.


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Old 03-30-2015, 11:08 AM   #36
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Got a checkpoint money 19t in the mail and I'm gonna throw a 27t arm in it. Still plan on 3s with that setup but it should work a little better.
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:39 PM   #37
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Things aren't going as planned but the rear is linking really nice.
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Old 04-03-2015, 02:09 PM   #38
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Ahhhhhh sheeeet.

My favorite motor design of all time.
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Old 04-04-2015, 06:42 PM   #39
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Hey! I recognize that motor.
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:20 PM   #40
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Got a little something going on.
Handwound 45t arm and ceramic bearings in a checkpoint money 19t can.
Electronics mounted.
Wheelbase is set.
Just figuring out body posts now. Trying to avoid pins so it'll take a little bit. Worst case I'll end up with another proline slash 4x4 kit and screw the body on.

Here it is at full stuff. Rear is good but the front will come up a little bit.
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