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Thread: Stock Yota 2 vs K44

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Old 04-19-2021, 08:17 PM   #1
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Default Stock Yota 2 vs K44

Good day everyone, I just had to order a set of diff gears(got the bevel gears instead of stock straight cut with shims to adjust them properly) and bushings for my Yota 2 on my MC truck, which i think comes stock with CVD axles, not sure but sure looks like them anyways.

Can anyone tell me the difference between both in terms of effective strength. I know about better steering angle with the K44(I'm happy with the current turning raduis btw and wouldn't be able to use it with leaf springs anyway) and would rather have a stronger axle than a scale looking one. I also hate the hub slop the axle had even when brand new but I don't have access to a tiny lathe with tools to make my own tight bushings.

Thanks for the input. I'll post pics of it once the parts come in even though it's nothing amazing to look at being stockish looking.
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Old 05-09-2021, 12:12 PM   #2
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Default Re: Stock Yota 2 vs K44

doing some research it seems we can use SCX10-2 axles with adapters under our trucks. There are a few companies making 3d printed axles also directly for leafed or linked TF2s.
That's definitely the direction I'll be going when I have money because even after putting in new knuckle bushings there is still way too much slop in the steering for my liking. If I had access to a mini lathe I'd just make the bushings myself to eliminate slop.

Also, found something out on my 2020 TF2 MC, I can't shim the diff gears on mine, there is no stock shims and unless I widen the c-clip groove on the pinion there is no way to add a shim at all. The knuckles were also made thinner at the bottom so the usual rebuilt kit for a yota 2 axle does not work. I had to shave almost half of the bushing to get the right seat height at the bottom screw. The new helical gear set is at least half the noise of the old one so we'll see how long it lasts the but the holes for the axle shafts have SO MUCH play that I can do 1/4 turn of a tire before it hits the other side of the hole..... I'll probably use JB weld in there after I grease the axle shaft tip to prevent it from sticking and hopefully fill in the hole enough to take out most if not all of the slop. I read about the cheap and low quality of RC4wd products but this is beyond what I expected.
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Old 07-01-2021, 06:43 AM   #3
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Join Date: Aug 2004
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Default Re: Stock Yota 2 vs K44

Both axles are kinda weak sauce filled with proprietary gears/shafts with no real upgrade path other than completely swapping axles.

You can easily drill out the knuckles to fit 3x6x3 bearings as kingpins. I did it with a vice and a handrill. I ran flanged bearings on the outside, with another plain bearing underneath. Then used 6x8x.1 shims under the flange, touching the knuckle, to properly set the bearing/knuckle height. Best bang for the buck on these yota axles.

Otherwise get some scx10.2 axles, and the JEC leaf mounts, and get some wheels with lots of back spacing if you must keep the tires inside the fenders.
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