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Old 04-23-2008, 01:32 PM   #1
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Default Another Scale Tuber Chassis

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We are working on this right now, we hope to ship next month
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Old 04-23-2008, 01:35 PM   #2
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Default RC4WD awesome like Always

nice nice nice !! a pic with a toyota body would be good

one of these days im gona have a heart atack of all this nice things RC4WD is putting on the table
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Old 04-23-2008, 04:44 PM   #3
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thats different, i love it!
i personally would ditch the tool box, but i would work well for hiding electronics.
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Old 04-23-2008, 04:53 PM   #4
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WoW! Im in... :-P
Looks good RC4WD!
John
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Old 04-23-2008, 05:21 PM   #5
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that looks very nice, do you have a set price
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Old 04-23-2008, 06:01 PM   #6
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I like the idea, but I think it could use some improvements.

1- Make the front Stinger a round bend, just like you would see on any 1:1 rig. Coming to a point really ruins the scale factor for me.

2- Cap off the ends of the bumpers, that will give it a much cleaner look. Also the front and rear bumpers need support bars going from the ends of each side of the bumper back to the frame. With out support braces those bumpers are going to bend the first time you bump into something let alone take a tumble.

3- Raise the tranny mount/link mount subframe up about 1" or more. The whole subframe shouldn't stick below the body more than 1". any thing more than that and it makes it look like a monster truck and not scale at all which defeats the purpose of the chassis.

4- the subframe also needs to be narrowed up quite a bit. You can't mount you're link that far apart on the chassis, it just doesn't work. You're upper links will be at such a high angle that they will max out the flex of the rod ends before the suspension even moves at all. Narrow it 1" or more on each side and it will bring it back to an acceptable position. Also by narrowing it you will be able to mount some boatside skid plates from the bottom of the chassis up to the bottom of the body which will look alot more scale to a 1:1 rig.

I'm really loving all of the new stuff you guys are bringing out though. Nobody else in the business is bring out as many products as we've asked for as you guys have. Thanks!
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:39 PM   #7
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^ x2 on everything he said, unless the design has already been finalised.

Can we see it hooked up to some axles to get an idea what sort of stance youre going for?
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:56 PM   #8
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That frame is heavily under built.... brakeline frames need much more support then that, and crimping the ends for shock mounts is a bad idea. Also there is no way 1/8" solid rod will support a bumper. You should work with better tube frame builders, I know who built it just by the design features.
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:39 PM   #9
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[quote=Fracture;1157355Can we see it hooked up to some axles to get an idea what sort of stance youre going for?[/quote]

Like the ultimate scale axles?
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Etype R View Post
That frame is heavily under built.... brakeline frames need much more support then that, and crimping the ends for shock mounts is a bad idea. Also there is no way 1/8" solid rod will support a bumper. You should work with better tube frame builders, I know who built it just by the design features.
I just looked at the chassis closer and actually realized what tubes were connected to what and how it was actually built and all I can say is WOW, that is a horribly designed and built chassis. I'm sorry that this is kinda harsh but it would be a very bad decision for you guys to produce this chassis. There are countless thing I noticed on the second time around that would have to be completely redesigned. If you were to fix all of the problems there would be nothing left of the original chassis. I'm speaking from experience too, I've designed and built many chassis's and know what works and what doesn't work and how to build stuff to stand up to abuse. Feel free to pm me or e-mail me if you want to talk about more of the stuff that I'm seeing wrong with this chassis. Please don't waste your time and money on this project in the current state that it is in though.
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Old 04-23-2008, 10:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fracture View Post
^ x2 on everything he said, unless the design has already been finalised.

Can we see it hooked up to some axles to get an idea what sort of stance youre going for?
2.2 Ford beater
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Old 04-23-2008, 11:17 PM   #12
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I see, looks great just not my style personally..
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Old 04-23-2008, 11:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrecker View Post
I like the idea, but I think it could use some improvements.

1- Make the front Stinger a round bend, just like you would see on any 1:1 rig. Coming to a point really ruins the scale factor for me.

2- Cap off the ends of the bumpers, that will give it a much cleaner look. Also the front and rear bumpers need support bars going from the ends of each side of the bumper back to the frame. With out support braces those bumpers are going to bend the first time you bump into something let alone take a tumble.

3- Raise the tranny mount/link mount subframe up about 1" or more. The whole subframe shouldn't stick below the body more than 1". any thing more than that and it makes it look like a monster truck and not scale at all which defeats the purpose of the chassis.

4- the subframe also needs to be narrowed up quite a bit. You can't mount you're link that far apart on the chassis, it just doesn't work. You're upper links will be at such a high angle that they will max out the flex of the rod ends before the suspension even moves at all. Narrow it 1" or more on each side and it will bring it back to an acceptable position. Also by narrowing it you will be able to mount some boatside skid plates from the bottom of the chassis up to the bottom of the body which will look alot more scale to a 1:1 rig.

I'm really loving all of the new stuff you guys are bringing out though. Nobody else in the business is bring out as many products as we've asked for as you guys have. Thanks!

JasonInAugusta posted a link to the original build of this truck if you want to see more pictures to analize.
I was very impressed with the performance of the suspension and I was driving it with turned down stock TLT shocks. Slightly better shocks would have had even better results. The way I was running The Ford Beater it out performed my Axial Scorpion hands down. I wish I would have kept the video I shot of it on the rocks and of it flipping down the hill with no damage what so ever. When I finish Master Shake's Danger Cart I will have to keep the test run videos.
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Old 04-24-2008, 12:02 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterShake44 View Post
JasonInAugusta posted a link to the original build of this truck if you want to see more pictures to analize.
I was very impressed with the performance of the suspension and I was driving it with turned down stock TLT shocks. Slightly better shocks would have had even better results. The way I was running The Ford Beater it out performed my Axial Scorpion hands down. I wish I would have kept the video I shot of it on the rocks and of it flipping down the hill with no damage what so ever. When I finish Master Shake's Danger Cart I will have to keep the test run videos.

You can say what you want, but I've built chassis that had 10x the support that this chassis has and I've bent them up. Every one else on here will agree with the statements I have said and that the chassis not going to hold up to any form of abuse. I'm sorry this is harsh, but I'm 100% confident in my statements.
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Old 04-24-2008, 12:15 AM   #15
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That's fine, maybe I don't abuse my rigs as hard as you do. Either way I was just putting out my experience with the design not my opinion. You might want to look into the material you are using on your builds. I don't use the silver based brazing rods, I use the pure brass type. I takes more temperature and is harder to work with but the strength is great.
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Old 04-24-2008, 12:31 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterShake44 View Post
That's fine, maybe I don't abuse my rigs as hard as you do. Either way I was just putting out my experience with the design not my opinion. You might want to look into the material you are using on your builds. I don't use the silver based brazing rods, I use the pure brass type. I takes more temperature and is harder to work with but the strength is great.
I agree some people are a lot harder on stuff than others, I am one of the more abusive people. When you are building a chassis for production though you need to make sure it will be able to handle the abuse that most of the customers are going to put it though. You can't make any money if 50% of the chassis's have to be sent back for warranty, let alone the amount of customers you will loose because they aren't going to risk buying a faulty product again. From what I see this chassis will only hold up to very light driving and 90% of the people who buy it will bend/break at lest one part of it.

As far as the durability, I was not referring to the method of joining tubes. If the tubes stick together chances are the joint is plenty strong enough and the surrounding tube is going to fail before the joint. I've used brass brazing, silver brazing, mig welding, and tig welding. All of them are plenty strong enough. I am referring the design and the materials used. The tubes are going to bend at the slightest impact due to the huge lack of critical supports and using way to weak of material for critical stress points on the chassis. I don't think the joints will fail, the tubes will just crumble around them.

Please take this as constructive criticism and take the advice to make an even better chassis.
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Old 04-24-2008, 01:14 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrecker View Post
I agree some people are a lot harder on stuff than others, I am one of the more abusive people. When you are building a chassis for production though you need to make sure it will be able to handle the abuse that most of the customers are going to put it though. You can't make any money if 50% of the chassis's have to be sent back for warranty, let alone the amount of customers you will loose because they aren't going to risk buying a faulty product again. From what I see this chassis will only hold up to very light driving and 90% of the people who buy it will bend/break at lest one part of it.

As far as the durability, I was not referring to the method of joining tubes. If the tubes stick together chances are the joint is plenty strong enough and the surrounding tube is going to fail before the joint. I've used brass brazing, silver brazing, mig welding, and tig welding. All of them are plenty strong enough. I am referring the design and the materials used. The tubes are going to bend at the slightest impact due to the huge lack of critical supports and using way to weak of material for critical stress points on the chassis. I don't think the joints will fail, the tubes will just crumble around them.

Please take this as constructive criticism and take the advice to make an even better chassis.
x2...

I like the looks of the Chassis. Just rethink it and do a better version of it.
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Old 04-24-2008, 01:56 AM   #18
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Time to Ralph it!
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Old 04-24-2008, 03:24 PM   #19
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Ralph it! Ralph it! Ralph it! Ralph it! Ralph it! Ralph it! Ralph it! Ralph it!
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Old 04-24-2008, 07:06 PM   #20
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Default tube chassis

i am wondering witch axles/tranny combo would work?
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