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Thread: Bastard Jr. Feedback, Support, & FAQ

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Old 12-21-2008, 09:53 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockbender View Post
I have another Question, What links are used for the top rear? Supposed to be a bolt on kit for Ax-10. Those are not stock rear uppers 3 or 4 link length.
The rig pictured above has our 4link plate on the rear so yes those links are different length.

We are going to be bundling these with AX10 ARTR's tomorrow. The only additional pieces used to bolt this chassis to a a stock ax10 are the following.

a 25mm axial spacer (axa1422 or equivilent)
and a 3mm x 20 mm set screw.

The 25mm spacer goes in between the upper link mount and the Y adapter on the rear axle.

We also rcommend, and will include a set of our internal droop springs. (12200)
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Old 12-22-2008, 08:48 PM   #22
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OK , Well What I used were Traxxas Ti turnbuckles off my Koala Chassis I beleive 9807 not sure though on the traxxas part with tcs 4 link plate. Its the ones everybody used to use whith TLT and SW2 chassis.

Last edited by rockbender; 12-22-2008 at 08:49 PM. Reason: misspeeellleddd wwoooorrrds
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Old 01-03-2009, 10:04 AM   #23
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The R2D does'nt fit into the chassis. :-(
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Old 01-03-2009, 04:49 PM   #24
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my r2d fits with a crawlmaster motor.
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Old 01-04-2009, 09:31 PM   #25
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I had to use a little force to spread the chassis open to get my derlin skid for the R2d in and I also had to cut out the back cross tube to fit the motor.
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Old 01-05-2009, 12:55 PM   #26
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The first 15 min. were amazing, felt like I had rock magnets in my tires. After that a minor flop not even a roll or tumble and ...

My theory is, the brackets for all of the mounts are only TIG fused on one side, so with a side to side force seems the brittle fused weld would be compramised or in my case crack. I love the chassis so I have no problem making the repairs myself. The majority of the clips on the inside are fillet welds, so I'll be able to use some filler rod. I dont mean to discurage and buyers, because i would still buy it again just make those changes right off the bat.
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Old 01-05-2009, 02:37 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noRCal View Post
The first 15 min. were amazing, felt like I had rock magnets in my tires. After that a minor flop not even a roll or tumble and ...

My theory is, the brackets for all of the mounts are only TIG fused on one side, so with a side to side force seems the brittle fused weld would be compramised or in my case crack. I love the chassis so I have no problem making the repairs myself. The majority of the clips on the inside are fillet welds, so I'll be able to use some filler rod. I dont mean to discurage and buyers, because i would still buy it again just make those changes right off the bat.
Were you using the chassis standoffs between the shocks, or just each shock bolted to each mount?
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Old 01-05-2009, 03:12 PM   #28
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No stand off's. And that probably would have prevented it, but if you were to see how slight the roll was to cause the break, I think it would raise your eye brow too. I was shocked, I thought I forgot to tighten a bolt on my shock cause it literaly popped right off.

Last edited by noRCal; 01-05-2009 at 03:14 PM. Reason: sp.
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Old 01-05-2009, 07:20 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noRCal View Post
No stand off's. And that probably would have prevented it, but if you were to see how slight the roll was to cause the break, I think it would raise your eye brow too. I was shocked, I thought I forgot to tighten a bolt on my shock cause it literaly popped right off.
The chassis is designed to use the spacer between the shock tabs. We did see one other chassis that had the same problem you are describing. You are more than welcome to return it for a replacement.
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Old 01-06-2009, 09:06 AM   #30
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I like!

Last edited by mjh; 01-06-2009 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 01-06-2009, 05:32 PM   #31
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About 15 min. of work, and no need to run standoffs anymore



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Old 01-06-2009, 05:52 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noRCal View Post
About 15 min. of work, and no need to run standoffs anymore
You should still run standoffs if you can it. At least in the front.
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Old 01-06-2009, 06:38 PM   #33
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What makes you say that? For the hoops that the tabs mount to?
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Old 01-06-2009, 07:01 PM   #34
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Yes. This chassis was designed to run the spacer to support the shock towers. If you happen to fall off a large enough obstacle the shock towers could bend without the standoff.
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:43 PM   #35
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Makes sense, ill take your advice. Thanks. BTW, when are those hoods comin out?
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:58 PM   #36
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Quote:
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BTW, when are those hoods comin out?
Yeah....I need one for mine!
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Old 01-06-2009, 10:39 PM   #37
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Default Thanks for day guys

Hey guys wanted to say thank you for all the help when i came in today. I got my stuff home and started putting my new bastard jr together. This thing is awesome. One question ,i thought i had a different motor but i have a novak 55. Does this motor supposed to fit .?? i tried flipping the trany mount but still no luck . I believe nathan asked me if i had a goat..Is that the motor that fits ??lol Hey thanks again guys for the help and cant wait to come down and play on the rocks..
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:45 AM   #38
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The Novak 55 should fit easier than the goat as it is shorter.

The guy making the hoods is supposed to be pulling some later this week.
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:26 AM   #39
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ive been itching to get this chassis man, my Wrekluse is top notch and needs a buddy
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Old 01-08-2009, 10:43 PM   #40
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When will spare panels be available? Also any chance of the molded hood becoming available? Love the chassis though little difficult to hide electronics but still worth the time.
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