RCCrawler Forums

Rockpiledriver · 04-27-2007, 10:26 AM

Since we wanted to get the first CVD's out ASAP to people needing them for comps, we did not get any pics taken for the instruction sheet in time to put them in with the axles.

Below is a simple instruction sheet for those that are not familiar with CVD assembly.

One thing was left out. Be sure to add a drop of locktight to the screws that hold the wheels on. Normal driving will cause them to loosen.

TxCruzr · 04-27-2007, 11:27 AM

What color loctite do you recommend? I've been hesitant on using loctite on the tiny screws cause I can just imagine me screwing them up

Thorsteenster · 04-27-2007, 11:49 AM

i havnt used loctite on any of the cvd's ive put together. 2 pairs of TTR's and several pairs of tamiya's. but i guess a little dab will do ya and wouldnt hurt. thanks guys! now im going to have to go and do it to all of mine!

Rockpiledriver · 04-27-2007, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxCruzr

What color loctite do you recommend? I've been hesitant on using loctite on the tiny screws cause I can just imagine me screwing them up

I use blue and have not had a problem removing screws when needed.

Rckcrwlr · 04-27-2007, 11:19 PM

I use blue. The key is to put it on the threads and then run your finger over the threads so that it is only in the grooves. That gives you just enough to hold the grub. In this application, Less is More.

bktoys · 04-28-2007, 08:17 AM

don't use red that is more for a permenant situation,and you can break things trying to get them apart

rockwerks · 04-28-2007, 09:16 AM

so where are these on your site? The CVD's not he instructions

Tanis · 04-28-2007, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockwerks

so where are these on your site? The CVD's not he instructions

They are in another thread in this section

, not on the website yet.

Badd · 05-01-2007, 02:42 PM

I must say that I really like these CVDs . the only problems I had installin' them was that they wouldn't past thru the FAT-ROCK axle Cs (nothing a dremel wouldn't take care of) . also another problem, I had to drill out my wheels so the axles would pass thru . I have TRAXXAS nitro rustler rear wheels (nothing a drill wouldn't fix) and last there where no e-clips in my bag . fast PM to RCP and I was told they would seen my some out . but I ask if the stock TLT clips where the same . they said yes that they are the same . I beat on them for abit and I mean beat on them . I am known for breakin' axles . I must say these things RoCk$ !

Rockpiledriver · 05-01-2007, 02:49 PM

Yup, we made the shaft as large as possible for strength. Drilling out the center hole in *some* wheels may be necessary. The e-clips are indeed the same as stock TLT.

We are having the fatrock C's made now. I asked about opening up that hole, but since they said it might be an issue because of the relationship of the hole to the bend, we held off for this batch because we wanted to get the C's made asap for people needing them. The first lot will still need to be opened up, the next lot we hope to fix that.

Badd · 05-01-2007, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rockpiledriver

Yup, we made the shaft as large as possible for strength. Drilling out the center hole in *some* wheels may be necessary. The e-clips are indeed the same as stock TLT.

We are having the fatrock C's made now. I asked about opening up that hole, but since they said it might be an issue because of the relationship of the hole to the bend, we held off for this batch because we wanted to get the C's made asap for people needing them. The first lot will still need to be opened up, the next lot we hope to fix that.

it was more cleaning up the hole than making it bigger . the CVD bell is so close to fitting thru the FAT-ROCK Cs . I think if I had just pushed it , it would have fit .

Etype R · 05-01-2007, 03:11 PM

With my RC4WD beadlocks, I had to use the spacer form the skinny hex on the outside, while using the wide hex. The surface is a bit thinner on the rc4wd beadlocks. Maybe you could add a 2mm spacer as well?

Cloak · 05-01-2007, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Badd

I must say that I really like these CVDs . the only problems I had installin' them was that they wouldn't past thru the FAT-ROCK axle Cs (nothing a dremel wouldn't take care of)

How odd, mine fit through with no problem at all.

The Muscle · 05-01-2007, 03:35 PM

these cvd's will fit the fat rock axle c's with no modification.

Rockpiledriver · 05-01-2007, 03:39 PM

Wow... that is strange. All of the initial testers said theirs did not fit through the hole in the C's. That was with the first version that had a smaller bell.

Odd.

Rckcrwlr · 05-01-2007, 03:44 PM

Mine had to be worked also. Not a big deal..

The Muscle · 05-01-2007, 06:57 PM

my axle c's are not new. they are from last year and fit right over the cvd's a little tight but i was able to push them on with my hands

chino63 · 05-01-2007, 09:00 PM

I had to open up all my Fat-Rock C's to fit the CVD's. Prototypes and production versions. Very easy to do!

themerc64 · 05-02-2007, 01:58 PM

Besides the instructions, these should also come with the normally supplied MIP Thread Lock and Lubicant. Not that everyone needs it, but it comes in handy and has come to be expected from a class act like MIP. Some wheels may have an issue with the thin hexes and spacers. The mounting flange is too thin on some wheels. Making the thin hexes just a bit thicker would help. I corrected the trouble I was having with my wheels.

Rockpiledriver · 05-02-2007, 02:13 PM

We can include the lube and lock but the price is going to go up.

The small hexes are designed to give the same width as stock. When we asked what people wanted before even designing these, that was a feature that was very sought after. We can't change something to fit one brand of wheel when they work perfectly with 99% of all others.

04-27-2007, 10:26 AM	#1
Rockpiledriver I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 5,027	TLT CVD Assembly Instructions Since we wanted to get the first CVD's out ASAP to people needing them for comps, we did not get any pics taken for the instruction sheet in time to put them in with the axles. Below is a simple instruction sheet for those that are not familiar with CVD assembly. One thing was left out. Be sure to add a drop of locktight to the screws that hold the wheels on. Normal driving will cause them to loosen.

04-28-2007, 08:17 AM	#6
bktoys Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Apache Junction Posts: 305	lock tite don't use red that is more for a permenant situation,and you can break things trying to get them apart

04-28-2007, 09:16 AM	#7
rockwerks I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: FLAGSTAFF Posts: 3,728	so where are these on your site? The CVD's not he instructions Last edited by rockwerks; 04-28-2007 at 09:27 AM.

05-02-2007, 01:58 PM	#19
themerc64 Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Rathdrum, ID USA Posts: 549	Besides the instructions, these should also come with the normally supplied MIP Thread Lock and Lubicant. Not that everyone needs it, but it comes in handy and has come to be expected from a class act like MIP. Some wheels may have an issue with the thin hexes and spacers. The mounting flange is too thin on some wheels. Making the thin hexes just a bit thicker would help. I corrected the trouble I was having with my wheels. Last edited by themerc64; 05-02-2007 at 05:57 PM.

04-27-2007, 11:27 AM	#2
TxCruzr Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Borderland Tejas Posts: 750	What color loctite do you recommend? I've been hesitant on using loctite on the tiny screws cause I can just imagine me screwing them up

04-27-2007, 11:49 AM	#3
Thorsteenster I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 3,377	i havnt used loctite on any of the cvd's ive put together. 2 pairs of TTR's and several pairs of tamiya's. but i guess a little dab will do ya and wouldnt hurt. thanks guys! now im going to have to go and do it to all of mine!

04-27-2007, 11:19 PM	#5
Rckcrwlr I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Here Posts: 7,317	I use blue. The key is to put it on the threads and then run your finger over the threads so that it is only in the grooves. That gives you just enough to hold the grub. In this application, Less is More.

05-01-2007, 02:42 PM	#9
Badd I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Dirty South Posts: 4,064	I must say that I really like these CVDs . the only problems I had installin' them was that they wouldn't past thru the FAT-ROCK axle Cs (nothing a dremel wouldn't take care of) . also another problem, I had to drill out my wheels so the axles would pass thru . I have TRAXXAS nitro rustler rear wheels (nothing a drill wouldn't fix) and last there where no e-clips in my bag . fast PM to RCP and I was told they would seen my some out . but I ask if the stock TLT clips where the same . they said yes that they are the same . I beat on them for abit and I mean beat on them . I am known for breakin' axles . I must say these things RoCk$ !

05-01-2007, 02:49 PM	#10
Rockpiledriver I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 5,027	Yup, we made the shaft as large as possible for strength. Drilling out the center hole in some wheels may be necessary. The e-clips are indeed the same as stock TLT. We are having the fatrock C's made now. I asked about opening up that hole, but since they said it might be an issue because of the relationship of the hole to the bend, we held off for this batch because we wanted to get the C's made asap for people needing them. The first lot will still need to be opened up, the next lot we hope to fix that.

05-01-2007, 03:11 PM	#12
Etype R Web Wheeling Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 3,004	With my RC4WD beadlocks, I had to use the spacer form the skinny hex on the outside, while using the wide hex. The surface is a bit thinner on the rc4wd beadlocks. Maybe you could add a 2mm spacer as well?

05-01-2007, 03:35 PM	#14
The Muscle Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2006 Location: san diego Posts: 607	these cvd's will fit the fat rock axle c's with no modification.

05-01-2007, 03:39 PM	#15
Rockpiledriver I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 5,027	Wow... that is strange. All of the initial testers said theirs did not fit through the hole in the C's. That was with the first version that had a smaller bell. Odd.

05-01-2007, 03:44 PM	#16
Rckcrwlr I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Here Posts: 7,317	Mine had to be worked also. Not a big deal..

05-01-2007, 06:57 PM	#17
The Muscle Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2006 Location: san diego Posts: 607	my axle c's are not new. they are from last year and fit right over the cvd's a little tight but i was able to push them on with my hands

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05-01-2007, 09:00 PM	#18
chino63 Oppan Gangnam Style Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Shingle Springs Posts: 5,164	I had to open up all my Fat-Rock C's to fit the CVD's. Prototypes and production versions. Very easy to do!

05-02-2007, 02:13 PM	#20
Rockpiledriver I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: SoCal Posts: 5,027	We can include the lube and lock but the price is going to go up. The small hexes are designed to give the same width as stock. When we asked what people wanted before even designing these, that was a feature that was very sought after. We can't change something to fit one brand of wheel when they work perfectly with 99% of all others.

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