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Thread: TLT CVD Assembly Instructions

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Old 04-27-2007, 11:26 AM   #1
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Default TLT CVD Assembly Instructions

Since we wanted to get the first CVD's out ASAP to people needing them for comps, we did not get any pics taken for the instruction sheet in time to put them in with the axles.

Below is a simple instruction sheet for those that are not familiar with CVD assembly.

One thing was left out. Be sure to add a drop of locktight to the screws that hold the wheels on. Normal driving will cause them to loosen.




Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:27 PM   #2
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What color loctite do you recommend? I've been hesitant on using loctite on the tiny screws cause I can just imagine me screwing them up
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:49 PM   #3
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i havnt used loctite on any of the cvd's ive put together. 2 pairs of TTR's and several pairs of tamiya's. but i guess a little dab will do ya and wouldnt hurt. thanks guys! now im going to have to go and do it to all of mine!
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Old 04-27-2007, 01:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxCruzr View Post
What color loctite do you recommend? I've been hesitant on using loctite on the tiny screws cause I can just imagine me screwing them up
I use blue and have not had a problem removing screws when needed.
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Old 04-28-2007, 12:19 AM   #5
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I use blue. The key is to put it on the threads and then run your finger over the threads so that it is only in the grooves. That gives you just enough to hold the grub. In this application, Less is More.
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:17 AM   #6
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Thumbs up lock tite

don't use red that is more for a permenant situation,and you can break things trying to get them apart
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Old 04-28-2007, 10:16 AM   #7
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so where are these on your site? The CVD's not he instructions

Last edited by rockwerks; 04-28-2007 at 10:27 AM.
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
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so where are these on your site? The CVD's not he instructions
They are in another thread in this section , not on the website yet.
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Old 05-01-2007, 03:42 PM   #9
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I must say that I really like these CVDs . the only problems I had installin' them was that they wouldn't past thru the FAT-ROCK axle Cs (nothing a dremel wouldn't take care of) . also another problem, I had to drill out my wheels so the axles would pass thru . I have TRAXXAS nitro rustler rear wheels (nothing a drill wouldn't fix) and last there where no e-clips in my bag . fast PM to RCP and I was told they would seen my some out . but I ask if the stock TLT clips where the same . they said yes that they are the same . I beat on them for abit and I mean beat on them . I am known for breakin' axles . I must say these things RoCk$ !
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Old 05-01-2007, 03:49 PM   #10
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Yup, we made the shaft as large as possible for strength. Drilling out the center hole in *some* wheels may be necessary. The e-clips are indeed the same as stock TLT.

We are having the fatrock C's made now. I asked about opening up that hole, but since they said it might be an issue because of the relationship of the hole to the bend, we held off for this batch because we wanted to get the C's made asap for people needing them. The first lot will still need to be opened up, the next lot we hope to fix that.
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Old 05-01-2007, 03:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockpiledriver View Post
Yup, we made the shaft as large as possible for strength. Drilling out the center hole in *some* wheels may be necessary. The e-clips are indeed the same as stock TLT.

We are having the fatrock C's made now. I asked about opening up that hole, but since they said it might be an issue because of the relationship of the hole to the bend, we held off for this batch because we wanted to get the C's made asap for people needing them. The first lot will still need to be opened up, the next lot we hope to fix that.
it was more cleaning up the hole than making it bigger . the CVD bell is so close to fitting thru the FAT-ROCK Cs . I think if I had just pushed it , it would have fit .
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Old 05-01-2007, 04:11 PM   #12
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With my RC4WD beadlocks, I had to use the spacer form the skinny hex on the outside, while using the wide hex. The surface is a bit thinner on the rc4wd beadlocks. Maybe you could add a 2mm spacer as well?
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Old 05-01-2007, 04:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badd View Post
I must say that I really like these CVDs . the only problems I had installin' them was that they wouldn't past thru the FAT-ROCK axle Cs (nothing a dremel wouldn't take care of)
How odd, mine fit through with no problem at all.
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Old 05-01-2007, 04:35 PM   #14
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these cvd's will fit the fat rock axle c's with no modification.
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Old 05-01-2007, 04:39 PM   #15
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Wow... that is strange. All of the initial testers said theirs did not fit through the hole in the C's. That was with the first version that had a smaller bell.

Odd.
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Old 05-01-2007, 04:44 PM   #16
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Mine had to be worked also. Not a big deal..
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Old 05-01-2007, 07:57 PM   #17
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my axle c's are not new. they are from last year and fit right over the cvd's a little tight but i was able to push them on with my hands
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:00 PM   #18
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I had to open up all my Fat-Rock C's to fit the CVD's. Prototypes and production versions. Very easy to do!
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:58 PM   #19
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Besides the instructions, these should also come with the normally supplied MIP Thread Lock and Lubicant. Not that everyone needs it, but it comes in handy and has come to be expected from a class act like MIP. Some wheels may have an issue with the thin hexes and spacers. The mounting flange is too thin on some wheels. Making the thin hexes just a bit thicker would help. I corrected the trouble I was having with my wheels.

Last edited by themerc64; 05-02-2007 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 05-02-2007, 03:13 PM   #20
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We can include the lube and lock but the price is going to go up.

The small hexes are designed to give the same width as stock. When we asked what people wanted before even designing these, that was a feature that was very sought after. We can't change something to fit one brand of wheel when they work perfectly with 99% of all others.
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