step by step wing removal

[redcatguy]

ok so for starters sorry for any mis spellings i am pretty damn hung over lol.

not sure how much this will help but here it is the step by step wing removal.
Items Needed:
#1 phillips screw driver(if you dont have one leave now)
Dremel/grinder
hack saw
small piece of aluminum, steel, hard plastic(must be rigid)
good bit of time and patience

Step one remove the two link screws from the wing



step two remove the four lower screws(keep the screws you need them)now thats off take your aluminum or what ever and cut a shape drill some holes and make it a nice shape not all blocky lol.



now thats on take your two screws and screw the bracket on to the axle.
then what i did it flipped my links around so that the threaded side was on the chassis side and screwed them into some existing holes. then on the other side i took some traxxas rod ends and some screws w/o the heads and put them toghther. then all you need is a long screw and a nut and put the links onto the bracket you made. the only thing that you have to be aware of it that you really dont want to clock your axle out too much. doing this will mess up your steering on the front. mine are clocked a bit so that the links dont smack the motors.


here it is with everything attached. i think it looks pretty damn good. so i know its not super indepth but i really hope that it at least helped someone if anyone has any more questions on this please dont be afraid to pm me or just ask. well have fun and for the new guys i hope that you stay in the crawling world and enjoy fabbing stuff up cause nothing is made for these lol.

i might do a post on the rear lock out too but its way simple so not sure yet let me know if you want that done too.

Brent

[jsowens]

Very nice. This will help out a lot I'm sure. I know there are posts about the rear steer lockout, but I don't think there's been an actual step by step how-to like this. I'm gonna link this thread in the tips and tricks thread.

One issue that can arise is with the stock screws, I've had a couple of them get pulled completely out of the gearbox housing. I fixed that by drilling out the hole a little and putting some m3 hex bolts in there.

[talon0713]

kind of a nub question but what do you mean by clocking the axles? are you talking about the foward or backward tilt of the axle? and does this apply the same for front and rear wing removal/ 4-link

[jsowens]

Originally Posted by talon0713

kind of a nub question but what do you mean by clocking the axles? are you talking about the foward or backward tilt of the axle? and does this apply the same for front and rear wing removal/ 4-link

Pretty much, yeah. The same wing removal process is for front and rear wings...they're mounted identically.

[tombs]

thinking of doing this is it worth it?

[jsowens]

Originally Posted by tombs

thinking of doing this is it worth it?

On my rig, 4 linking it limited the flex down a bit, which is good. 90 degrees of articulation hurts more than it helps. Not to mention it looks way better and more like a real rig instead of a transformer haha. So yeah, I would say it's worth it.

[rockunlimited2]

My upper arms meet at a point are are mounted together. They are not mounted to the side of the frame. Can I just flip it and mount the frint of the arms to the frame?

[redcatguy]

after i did this to mine i reverse triangulated my lowers by making a delrin skid and mounting the links in the inside of the skid. it really seems to work awesome and is pretty much unstopable. well hope this thread helped someone.

Brent

[ctracy]

what do you mean by traingulating the lowers? I just got my rs10 and this is the first mod I am doing. I need to make a run to the hobby store to get 4 links though. dont have one real close.

[dgna5]

Originally Posted by ctracy

what do you mean by traingulating the lowers? I just got my rs10 and this is the first mod I am doing. I need to make a run to the hobby store to get 4 links though. dont have one real close.

look at the XR-10 the links are triangulated also lots of info on 1:1 crawler sites..
anywho.. if u have to short term go to Local hardware store get some 3/16 all-thread or (solid steel,alum.or brass rod and thread it ) .. then go to pepboys and get some Revo end links $7 and make sm. for now .. or for good? this is half the fun, and a nod to the crawler ancestry

[ctracy]

ah ok got it now. duh.

[dgna5]

Originally Posted by talon0713

kind of a nub question but what do you mean by clocking the axles? are you talking about the foward or backward tilt of the axle? and does this apply the same for front and rear wing removal/ 4-link

I have my axles "clocked" counter clockwise or up?? this can be done easily by adjusting the length of the upper links (or lower but by doing the lower causes a whole new topic..) longer uppers = upward clock; shorter uppers = downward clock. this is beneficial in both clearance issues and using the natural torque of the motors to adjust forward/downward "Bite"

[ctracy]

ok i finally got my wing removal mod done. i used a 7/64 drill bit to drill the holes bigger where the wing (now block) mounts to the axle. I didnt care much for the self threaded ones. So I put 1 1/2 4-40 bolts in them to mount the block. of coarse washers on boths side with lock washer and nut (couldnt find nylon lock nuts.) the bolts actually threaded into the whole pretty tight then i put nuts on them and tightened. I used a 1 1/4 4-40 bolt to mount the links to the "block" I used 3/4 inchers to mount the other end of the links to the frame, removed the lower forward chrome frame suppoert to mount the links. I used some cutting board I got at wally world to make the "blocks" and painted them black. wish i could have got black bolts though. might have to paint them.
Materials
qty 4 1 1/2 4-40 bolts for the block to mount to axles
qty 2 1 1/4 4-40 bolts to mount the links to the "block"
qty 4 3/4 4-40 bolts to mount the other end of the links to the frame
20 4-40 flat washers
10 4-40 lock washers
10 4-40 nuts couldnt get nylon lock nuts
7/64 drill bit
8.5" x 11" poly cuting board from walmart to make the "Block" its about 1/4" thick 1 1/2 long and 1" tall. you can drill different holes in the block for the link to be positioned in different place to "clock" the axles.

these seems to work pretty good. thanks to everyone who posted this mod. it really came in handy. Next mod is either gonna be shocks to axles or bigger motors. Oh and tires....def def definately tires.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that I bought a pack of rod ends. I replaced the stock ones as I thought with one after market rod end and one stock rod end then the link was to long (from where I mounted it on the frame) and caused too much "clicking" of the axles. so i installed aftermarket rod ends on all four of the links giving me the look i wanted.

[muddywaters7]

Has anyone flipped the upper stock link around so the single end is on the axle? does it make a difference?

[redcatguy]

i think i see what ur talking about u mean take the y part and attaching it to ur axle. i dont know if it would be any better than it is now but might be worth trying. i just like the four link look but the honcho runs a set up like that so might work. not sure if anyone else has tried to do this or not give it a go if worse comes to worse u can put it back to stock or do the four link.

Brent

[ctracy]

I was thinking about that as well but I went ahead and did the 4 link mod.

[redcatguy]

hey muddywaters did u end up trying that or what. if u did post up some pics and let us know how it does

[obxcarolina]

thanks for the info. def cheaper than ordering a kit. finally got mine together, unfortunatly while testing it, i stripped an enternal gear in the steering servo. so now i have got to make lock-out for the rear so i can use that servo until the new one arrives. i am thinkin the hitech 995metel gear? any imput on if that one is a good replacement?

[jsowens]

Originally Posted by obxcarolina

i am thinkin the hitech 995metel gear? any imput on if that one is a good replacement?

I would suggest a hitec 645mg, rc4wd mayhem, or one of these servos:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279025