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Old 04-03-2010, 06:39 PM   #1
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Default RS-10 Makeover

I got tired of the hummer body, even bashing it on the rocks was uninteresting so I made a change. While I was at it I ordered some LONG shocks. I think I have the mounting location now I need to mess with oil and springs. You will notice to sets of mounting holes, after installing the shocks the body was waaaay to high. Oh and I broke off one of those little diode things on the motor, not the one that connects the two posts but the one that connects the post to the motor body. What are these for? Would they cause my new glitch? and where do I get them and what should I ask for?
Here are some pictures....enjoy





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Old 04-03-2010, 07:11 PM   #2
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dang those things are long. Where did you get them? In one of the pictures it looks like your tires are rubbing the shocks pretty bad.
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Old 04-03-2010, 10:58 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by 4x4ty View Post
dang those things are long. Where did you get them? In one of the pictures it looks like your tires are rubbing the shocks pretty bad.
Not bad, same as they rubbed the stockers. If they give me problems I will switch back to ProLine Hammers. I got them from TowerHobbies and there for a Traxxas something I forget. They reach from the stock shock location to the axle where I have them mounted. I moved them to the inside frame support bar for a little more ground clearance.

Last edited by GreMonte; 04-03-2010 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:43 AM   #4
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nice have you gotten a chance to take it out?
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Old 04-04-2010, 01:13 PM   #5
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Yes. I now need to work with shock oil and maybe springs they are just a little too stiff for my taste. A lighter oil should do the trick. I'm having an issue with glitching. I even had to climb the hill to get my truck, it was only about 15 feet away and just sat there twitching. It have have only been 15 feet away but it was also 10 feet up. One of the diodes on the motor broke off would that cause it? Would metalic paint be a problem?
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Old 04-04-2010, 01:42 PM   #6
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Nah, I seriously doubt the paint has anything to do with it. The motor could be an issue...you also might wanna check the antenna for any small nicks. Is the glitching something that just started? Mine developed a pretty bad glitch when I picked up a new servo about a week ago. Installed a BEC and it seems to be fine now...still glitches a little bit on a fully charged battery, but after a couple of minutes of running, it smooths out.
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Old 04-04-2010, 03:00 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by jsowens View Post
Nah, I seriously doubt the paint has anything to do with it. The motor could be an issue...you also might wanna check the antenna for any small nicks. Is the glitching something that just started? Mine developed a pretty bad glitch when I picked up a new servo about a week ago. Installed a BEC and it seems to be fine now...still glitches a little bit on a fully charged battery, but after a couple of minutes of running, it smooths out.
Yes it just started. One of the diodes broke off the motor I'm going to replace it Monday. Its bad enough that I had to go get it a couple of times, not fun this thing gets into places that are very hard to walk to.
I installed MG946 servo's, I havn't noticed anything different.
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Old 04-04-2010, 03:38 PM   #8
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Hmm...maybe fixing your motor might help it out. I barely had any glitching with my 645mg servo, but I stripped a gear in that and picked up one of the rc4wd mayhem servos that have a little over 200oz of torque and the glitching started.
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Old 04-04-2010, 04:04 PM   #9
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i have noticed glitching when the batteries in the controller get to low also
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Old 04-17-2010, 09:35 PM   #10
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So I have done some work on the truck and replacing the diode was the trick. Its not a diode its a capacitor so once I found that out is was easier to shop for. I contacted RedCat and they said any size will work and it drains the RF from the motors. I just bought the smallest ones they had at Radio Shack and he glitching has stopped. Every once in a while I will get a glitch but nothing worth fixing yet.

I replaced the shock oil and it was still too stiff so after a little thinking I just drained about a 1/4 inch of oil out of each shock. Works great now.

I have broken both of my four link mounts on the axle. I already had the aluminum ones made but I wanted to see how long the plastic ones would last. Now I know.

I'm trying to think now about the next trick I want to try. I have been thinking of a rear steer lock out and a dig controller. Although I still use the rear steering for tight turn arounds. I might go with the new Punk dig+2 and have rear steer and dig..
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Old 05-12-2010, 05:44 PM   #11
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GreMonte, what servo are you running?
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Old 05-16-2010, 10:04 AM   #12
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MG649r from towerpro
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Old 05-16-2010, 08:51 PM   #13
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Looks nice man, how long is the shock you put on there?
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:36 PM   #14
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They are 145mm shocks and they work great. I see a ton of ways to tune them and look forward to playing with them.
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreMonte View Post
MG649r from towerpro
Any problems like the MG995?
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:20 AM   #16
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Not sure of what the problems are? Oh and they are MG946r.
What problems are your refering to and i can tell you if I have those too. They kind of feel underpowered and slow.
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:28 AM   #17
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The most common is twitching on the mg995. I'm just curious if your model has similar issues
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:33 AM   #18
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I run the MG946r on my Losi MRC and it's a great servo for that application. It is definitely a better servo than the 995 but IMO it's not up to the abuse a 2.2 will give it.
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:25 PM   #19
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I agree, I have been running them for a couple months and the front one is starting to protest a little so I swapped if to the rear. I had these on my TXT-1 and they had no business trying to turn those big tires. I'm not sure how much longer they will last and I think they might be why I get the glitches. I have checked everything else and everything is good.
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Old 09-29-2010, 11:07 PM   #20
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Default Updates with pictures, like it should be

New updates!!. Since my last post I have switched to full droop just to try it out. I have also shaved the knuckles for better steering and done a 540 motor swap.
I have yet to test the droop set up. I am also noticing that I can shoot the dogbones out, sometimes I can just roll them back in but others I have to tear down the axle to fix it.

Here are some pictures
Full droop RS-10

Well balanced RS-10
Now some fancy shots.




Thanks for looking. Any advise will be considered...
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