My Latest Build
 

Here's a couple shots of my latest build. I have upgraded to Banebot 380's, converted to 2 cell lipo's, narrowed the chassis, did behind the axle steering, and custom built the suspension. I've been busy modifying and testing several different things. This setup is different from anything I've seen and seems to work pretty well on my backyard pile. It is still on stock tires and electronics although I did do the wiring mod. I still have nothing to compare it with, so let me know what you think of it's abilities.

Here'a link to my latest video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykStOw-kUnQ

Added 6/04/10
Here's a real climbing video for you http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfLM5Qw6NVU
Please let me know what you think.

I just found out there is a shootout going on here in Az this weekend. I plan to go and check it out and hopefully meet some people and learn more about the sport. I won't be competing, but will take my rig to mess around with.

http://members.cox.net/bajasinaction/rs10 6_3_10.jpg

http://members.cox.net/dansmail/rs10/rs10_chassis.jpg

Here's a view of what I'm calling my "torsional whisbones". They control the flex. The pins holding them in are temporary.
http://members.cox.net/dansmail/rs10/rs10_chassis_2.jpg

This is fully raised
http://members.cox.net/dansmail/rs10/rs10_raised.jpg

Fully raised and flexed.
http://members.cox.net/dansmail/rs10...raisedflex.jpg

Notice that even fully raised and flexed the axles are still parallel.
http://members.cox.net/dansmail/rs10...isedflex_2.jpg

This is normally flexed
http://members.cox.net/dansmail/rs10...normalflex.jpg

This is how I handled the wiring mod.
http://members.cox.net/dansmail/rs10...iringmod_2.jpg

Heres my steering mod.
http://members.cox.net/bajasinaction/steering mod.jpg

How does that small diam. rod ur using for steering linkage hold up does it flex much?

The link is 1/8" welding rod. It's seems to be holding perfectly. If there's any flex I would have to say it's in the plastic arms. I need to do more with the steering. There's just not enough angle. I will need to replace the servo mount with a stronger one. Then move the link down futher on the servo arm. This will give more throw and added clearance for the motor . When full left the nut actually contacts the motor the way it is now.

Nice Build.. in video i noticed your shock placement does it work as a full/half droop type system?. It looks like it is very "Light on its Feet" ..
See My vids http://www.youtube.com/user/dgna5#g/u
for comparison

I would call the shocks full droop. Currently the skid plate is setting at 2 1/2". This can be raised or lowered by sliding the mounts. The lower links are what I'm calling "torsional wishbones". This setup allows the axles to drop without getting all twisted up and the torsional aspect contols the articulation. This gives it that "light on it's feet" feel and is much more stable. I was getting tons of rollovers on the pile before. It's much steadier now. I'll take some more shots of it and post them up. The setup may turn out to be crap, but I like to try different things just for the fun of it.

I need to take it out and find some real rocks to try it on, but it's getting darn hot down here. It's supposed to be around 110 this week. :twisted: The comp is in the high country this weekend, so hopefully it cooler up there.

Yea take some close-up's i have a tube chassis that i wanna put togh. so i'd like to mess around with the shock placement etc.. I was i Phoenix This past wkend. and I was not prepared for 100deg. much less 110.. esp. after it was 65deg. before we left NM to go down there..

Ok I uploaded some more pics. I added them to the original posting, so they are at the top.

It's definitely summer here. It will be above 100 thru mid September. It kinda suck because in the spring I'm so busy doing what needs to be done I don't get to play. Then in the summer it's just to hot.

For being on stock tires, that setup crawls really well. "thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"

I especially like how you got the shocks out of the way. Great idea.

That's definitely different...not a bad build though. I'm curious how well it'll hold up.

Cool concept, i just don't think that that suspension is predictable. also there's no links to help keep it balanced when sliding over rocks. Don't get me wrong, it's deffinently a good concept, i just don't think i'd use it in competition.

Yeh, I'm not real sure of it either. The first set of arms I built broke right away. So I fused them better and ran a screw into the T section. I've run seval packs thru them now and they seem to be holding up fine. But I haven't role it off a 3 foot ledge or anything like that. Just a couple 2 rollers down my pile is all. Don't know if they could handle a long drop though. I guess it gives me good reason to drive well.

I found the predictability isn't as bad as you'd think, it was real bad before the wishbones. It would twist up like a pretzel. As far as comping goes, I have no plans to comp at this time, but I would like to compare it to other rigs to see if it warrents further tuning. It may turn out to be crap, but it's fun trying.

Im speechless. :shock:

I'm liking this more and more. I especially like the droop. Why did you bend your upper links?

Probably the same reason i did. To clear the dif and motor when flexing.

Here's a new vidoe I shot this morning (same as added to original post) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfLM5Qw6NVU

I found it needs a little stiffer spring up front to hold the chassis down when going vertical and the steering is awful.

I blew the second stock rear servo in a week and all it was doing was trying to hold center, so it has to go. I only use it when bombing around the house anyway.The stock tires are to bouncy which dosen't help with the steering either.

Overall I thought it did pretty well tho.

I bent them when I had them on the lowers. I just moved them to the uppers, but like LittleE said it does help clear the motors.

Ok, cool. From what i can tell on mine, they done hit the motor. I should be good, thanks for the info.

The steering lockout is done. I used the setup that jsowens posted. I found that a 3/8 galvanized plumbing nipple was the perfect size. The outer dia was to large to fit between the axle ears, so I filed two flat spots in them. Then ground two notches to fit the steering stops into. this keeps it all centered up. I also had to drill holes for the screws to pass into.

This is how they looked. The holes are not drilled here. I discovered I needed them after taking pics.
http://members.cox.net/dansmail/rs10...ckouts 003.jpg

looks like your having fun. thats what its all about anyways"thumbsup"