My RS10 build!!! Suggestions?

[Jakethesnake-rs10]

Hey y'all im new to rccrawlers.com but not new to rc crawlers. I have had a losi night crawler, losi comp crawler with dig and Novak goat3s and a few hpi crawler kings! Well the brother in law showed up to my place with the first MOA crawler ive seen up close and i was quite impressed how well it kept up with my losi comp crawler keep in mind this MOA crawler was a bone stock RS10! Well I decided to pull the trigger and ordered one for myself from rcplanet.com

Out of the box ive decided to do the 4link mod, replace the little pins in both diffs, and swap the tires and foams out for some old losi rock claw meats with memory foam inserts.

Question number one: I plan to immediately change out BOTH steering servos to Savox SC-0251's Does anybody else have a better servo suggestion?

Question number two: What BEC do you guys recommend?

Thanks again and i will update with pics as i go along with my build!

[pajey]

Only go with a castle creations 10 amp bec. And grab the castle link to change the voltage.

[Jakethesnake-rs10]

Thanks for the suggestion pajey! Will the 10amp be more than enough to run both servos? Or should i go with the 20amp pro BEC from castle?

[jimmiejump]

Yes the 10A Castle bec will handle both servo's. Remember to push out the red wire from the esc before using the esc. Very easy to reprogram to 6V with the Castle Link.

[Jakethesnake-rs10]

Hey Jimmiejump are you talking about the red wire thats with the white and black wires that plug in in the receiver side? Go ahead and disconnect the red one?

[nitrosport]

I ran a rc4wd outcry duel motor ESC on my rs10. it has turbo BEC (battery power right to receiver) and it can handle up to 4s lipo. I ran 3s lipo on mine. this added some much needed wheel speed for wet/smooth surfaces. 3s will cause the rear motor to get hot when going uphill a lot (clod stall=more heat for rear motor) but a heat sink put on it will keep it from getting to hot.
the outcry esc is $60 and you get a lot for that. The only features it is missing is LVD and waterproof. You could likely make it waterproof if you wanted to. and as far as LVD, I never needed it. when the lipo gets low there is a sudden drop in power. As long as you notice the drop in power and stop running you wont damage your lipo.

You've nailed down the major areas needing improvement...tires/servos. You may also find you want to LIMIT the flex some. You can do it by just changing the shock setup a little.

[Jakethesnake-rs10]

NitroSport how long have you been running that esc? Eventually when the stock esc burns up i was thinking of replacing it with a Novak crawler esc, a brand thats more familiar to me. But im still open and not limited to using only a Novak. Was even kicking around the idea of using a dedicated esc for each motor too...I have to remind my self i have a scale "shafty" build in the works using a crawler king tranny and axles that could use some funding too. All in all my goal for this rs10 build is reliability with mild performance.

[Jakethesnake-rs10]

[Jakethesnake-rs10]

Can somebody help me post pictures here using an iPhone? Thought you uploaded pictures to a imaging sharing site like photo bucket then typed in the URL after clicking on the little yellow and grey Mt range looking tab on the top of this text box? At least i tried that with no success?

[Jakethesnake-rs10]

[EL PHANTASMO]

I'm working on the 540 swap now, I hear it is a very worthwhile mod. I will let you know my opinion this weekend.

[Jakethesnake-rs10]

I would really like to hear what you think about it. Have you decided what motors and how many turns they will be? I have concidered doing the swap myself but I would like to pickup some more wheel speed at the same time. I have a feeling that some 35t 540 motors would have just as much torque and greater wheel speed than the stockers. Also for shits and giggles you should try flipping the motor around out front to utilize stock straight links. I have a write up in another thread on how to do this. I really want to see this done with a pair of 540's

[EL PHANTASMO]

I will be using 27turn axial motors, because I got them for the right $$$$. Getting the motors to fit in the case is not that hard, I didn't have to cut too much with the 12 tooth pinions I'm using. I plan on documenting the swap just to show how easy it is. Now all I got to do it get this baby to flex and steer with these bad boys!

[Jakethesnake-rs10]

Installed a rear steer lock out while I'm waiting for my replacement ESC.



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[Jakethesnake-rs10]

Redneck way of keeping water out of my axle tubes. Automotive grease works well.


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[The Jackalope]

I had my whole gear case filled at first, but it was just so messy. since I'm strictly a comp based build, I just stopped running in deep water anyways. this is a good idea for a scale build though. Watch they don't leak grease all over your tires since the axle tubes are open. MIGHT hinder traction a bit

[Jakethesnake-rs10]

That was my first impression to. The picture is after a three or four days bogging around the back yard. All the grease stayed in quite well so far but time will indeed tell.

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[Churb]

one suggestion i will make is the addition of some aluminum knuckles.

My factory plastic ones were so fatigued that even with a rear lockout any type of climb would toe the tires in horribly, even the front too. It got to the point where it was severely hindering my capabilities, however they never broke, just flexed like mad. Even though some folks don't like the company, I picked up a full set of aluminum knuckles from C.K.R.C and couldn't be happier.

I think most of them will just break after time and when they are new its not really a problem. Just something to think about.

[Jakethesnake-rs10]

Originally Posted by Churb

one suggestion i will make is the addition of some aluminum knuckles.

My factory plastic ones were so fatigued that even with a rear lockout any type of climb would toe the tires in horribly, even the front too. It got to the point where it was severely hindering my capabilities, however they never broke, just flexed like mad. Even though some folks don't like the company, I picked up a full set of aluminum knuckles from C.K.R.C and couldn't be happier.

I think most of them will just break after time and when they are new its not really a problem. Just something to think about.

I have noticed the exact same thing, the stock knuckles toe all over the place. Kinda just been dealing with it for the moment. On ckrc am I looking for the axial knuckles or are they listed for the rs10? I thought I saw somewhere the axial ones fit...

thanks churb





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[Churb]

Not sure on the axial knuckles, they might even be cheaper but I wasn't aware that this could be an option.

Just click on Redcat racing products and then redcat racing parts, $24.99 a set and like i said I couldn't be happier with them.
You have to shorten your steering some, I found using traxxas 3mm rod ends works well for this.