BRAINSTORM; Moving Those Motors

[The Jackalope]

Haven't mounted the motors yet, and haven't been around to work further on the mod yet. TONNES more to finish, But when I do, This mod is gonna be awesome!!! I'll put it all in it's own thread, but here's a teaser pic. Thats 5mm more clearance than stock housing!

[Big Pitt]

About those brushless motors, what power supply are we talking about? Would the stock ESC resist them?(or a CC SCT esc, that's what I actually have)

[Big Pitt]

So no one can juste clear that out for me?

[screwed]

might want to start a new thread. maybe more will see it ??
just a guess tho, i think the brushless motors need brushless esc's because they are ac not dc ?? dont take my word for it tho.

[xkill]

They are using some cheap, double brushless esc.

[CrippleCreekCrawler]

If you really want to get the motor out of the way, you could just flip the bottom half of the axle and make it hang over outside Plus it would make for better weight distribution if you do it in the front AND automatically give you BTA steering! What's not to like? Other than ramming your motor into things... Hmmm.

[Sydwall85]

So has anyone that was kicking this idea of brushless around done it? There is a new option finally available from Holmes Hobbies. I have been watching this thread and another from the Electronics forum..
Sensored Outrunner motors- Revolver S
He posted a testing vid today:
Revolver S Crawler Motor.wmv - YouTube



Specs:
Holmes Hobbies / Holmes Bikes :: Motors :: Brushless Outrunners :: Holmes Revolver S Stubby

Specs are incredibly in line with what we all are looking for (34mm can length) but since it ONLY fits 540s:

ZNO Big Boys.. $ MANDITORY
ALL metal parts in the axles... $ MANDITORY
2 motors... $$$$ MANDITORY
2 ESCs... $$$$ MANDITORY
Batteries (ya gatta have better batteries, don't ya)...$$

(that's 10 $'s btw, not counting batteries)

The option pointed out earlier in this thread is way cheaper, but.....

[FATBOYrs10]

what bout it? did you get motores mounted and worked so great you just don't want to share with us, or is it all still sittin where you took the last pic? just curious!

[Sydwall85]

Me? No I haven't done it. Mine is still running the stock motors, til tomorrow when I get home that is . I will still be watching this thread intently, but the outcome won't be as needed for me anymore...

[FATBOYrs10]

Originally Posted by Sydwall85

Me? No I haven't done it. Mine is still running the stock motors, til tomorrow when I get home that is . I will still be watching this thread intently, but the outcome won't be as needed for me anymore...

sorry,no, it was intended for jackalope!

[The Jackalope]

Nope. I haven't installed the new gear case and motors yet. Not to mention that I've only built ONE gearcase, and haven't started the second one yet. I'm still rockin the rc4wd 45's for the time being. Sorry boys. Gettin lazy. And work started picking up again..........excuses, excuses.....blah, blah, blah.......

I would like to make the second one a little prettier than my first hack job. I need a band saw, or a whole new machine shop for that matter.

[The Jackalope]

So here's the much anticipated update.
code name; "STEALTH CASE"

So What I'm doing here is moving the actual stock mounting plate, over 5mm. I'm cutting it out of one half of the housing, then removing material and mounting it into the other half of the housing. I'm keeping 3 screw holes attatched to the mounting plate to provide the strength. The glue is really just a filler, and isn't really factored into structural integrity. Though I'm sure it helps a bit.

[The Jackalope]

These pics are from the first case I did. The second one came out a little neater.

[Docwolf]

why not back it with styrene and fill it with epoxy?

i think you will see some flex there, how much will depend on the motors.

The big boy kit could be used to reenforce that section too.

Edit*** another idea, once you have them right, re cast them and make molds......new gear case for the RS10!

[The Jackalope]

Originally Posted by Docwolf

why not back it with styrene and fill it with epoxy?

i think you will see some flex there, how much will depend on the motors.

The big boy kit could be used to reenforce that section too.

Edit*** another idea, once you have them right, re cast them and make molds......new gear case for the RS10!

Thanks Doc, but...... fill what with styrene? These aren't done yet. Just workin out the kinks. and the motor covers the only part thats still open at the moment. (comp rig. No diving!)

I don't think flex will be an issue, cuz the load will be linear from the motor, no side loading. should be fine. If the pinion slips, I'll know this mod is busted. But I doubt it.

I HAVE the Big Boy Kit. I'm trying to get away from the extra width it adds to the motor length. As it sits now, 9mm saved from the Big Boy Kit.

[The Jackalope]

[The Jackalope]

So here's the issue. As you see above, The 10 tooth pinion doesn't reach the first spur gear, because the spur's shaft is in the way of the motor.

The Big Boy Kit incorporates a hole to hold this shaft pin into it. But with this mod, the shaft IS where the motor housing SHOULD be.

I was hoping to solve this with a 15 Tooth pinion to make up the extra distance. I'll be sacrificing some torque but gaining speed. I put a feeler thread on this topic, but got zero intelegent responses on the subject. (Sorry Doc) http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redca...5t-motors.html

The other option is to shave out half of the spur gears bearing shaft until the motor fits. this may affect how straight the spur gear sits in the case. However, the motor would also aid in holding it in place, since they will be touching.

[Docwolf]

Well the question now is, how you do look on your mounting holes. Are you against the rear edge of the holes? You can open them up some I am sure you just want to have a little movement in there so you can get your lash right.

This answers my previous question on space, yes you have room to go bigger. A 15tooth on a 35t motors should be fine.

I was talking about filling the space you are currently filling with glue.

Use styrene or some other thin material as a support and then fill the gaps with a good epoxy.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[The Jackalope]

I haven't drilled the new mounting holes yet at 540 hole spacing. I was waiting to see where everything sits when my new pinions arrive. Then I'll drill out as little as possible to tune gear mesh, and throw a washer on the screw-head side.

As The pic with the motor in it shows; I'm running my pinions upside down on the motor shaft to line up properly with the spur, since the motor face is that much closer to it. Also, with the case assembled, the small cover-plate over the pinion won't fit as is. I'll either Fabricate a "domed" cover plate to clear the pinion, or just run with it open.

the glue is E600. I use it to repair my lexan bodies.

[The Jackalope]

And thanks for your input Docwolf. I'm still worried about drawing a lot of amps on the 35t's with 15t pinions. Guess I'll have to wait and see though. I'd rather follow with the HH moto of "Volt up and Gear down" cuz it sure makes a lot of sense. But, only driving it will tell. I can't wait to start testing