New body style RS10XT

[bbolden516]

OK so I finished up my new shock to axle mounts which gives me a nice stance slightly lower than it was sitting before, but a much more positive feel on the suspension. I also got a few pics in here on my body mounts that I had to move when I moved the chassis forward to get a better 60/40 spilt with out adding any extra weight. As you can see in the pics the front body post is slightly lower than the rear but by doing this I didn't have to drill any new holes in the body..

[cabron]

lot of work you have into this

[bbolden516]

Yeah but that's half the fun, 1/2 is driving it, 1/2 is seeing that something can be made better and then the mods never end it seems.

[cabron]

that is what I do
build something, try it out, chase a few squirrels, look at it for a while,
get some ideas, and rebuild it.
I have not put up any pictures of the two newest builds I am working on an rs10 and a bully2

did you get the answer about the materials I use?

[bbolden516]

You need to post some pics and do a build tread on your builds I bet they are pretty cool and quite a few people would like to see and read about them, I know when I look around on here I may or may not copy some things I see other times seeing what other people do gives me ideas.

And I haven't found the answer to the materials I may be looking in the wrong spot.

[cabron]

i tried answering where you posted the question of materials but i am not sure i did it right
so.....
chassis sides are 1/8 perforated aluminum sheet with 1/8 holes makes a great template for marking and drilling holes
skidplate is 1/4 white natural delrin cuts so easy and can be drilled and tapped and even dyed
links were 1/4 aluminum tube with 1/8 hole i would tap those to 6-32 or 8-32 depending on which rod ends i used
now are 3/16 aluminum rod with threads cut to 10-32 (10-24 if you prefer) for the large traxxas ends
chasssis braces are 3/8 black natural delrin (have some 1/2 white too)
traxxas rod ends #5525 jato or you can use the shorter #5347 large revo
i have used heavy duty dubro for steering links since they dont need much articulation and the dubros have slimmer profile
and lastly i am using .10 spring steel piano wire for my suspensions

Online Metal Store | Small Quantity Metal Orders | Metal Cutting, Sales & Shipping | Buy Steel, Aluminum, Copper, Brass, Stainless | Metal Product Guides at OnlineMetals.com for my metals and plastics i have heard of a mcmasters too
Tower Hobbies - Best Source for Radio Control ( R/C or RC ) Cars, Trucks, Airplanes, Boats and Helicopters has a lot of name brand parts and they have fairly good descriptions,
but i buy mostly from ebay

other folks have their prefered sites all good

i am working on cvs for the rs10 while i work on making the wiring neat on the berg and bully2 i have
on the burners. i hesitate to show my builds because i do not want to get in any arguments about my opinions
on suspensions and shocks. but i will post them eventually in my album.
yes i have seen many clever things done as i look through the forum lots of food for thought

[bbolden516]

It sucks that you get arguments any time some one sees something they aren't sure about or don't agree with. Who cares if some one is building some thing completely off the wall and totally different let them build it their way who knows we mite all learn a thing or two. I seen your album I was like like what the heck is this guy doing at 1st look then I started thinking well its kinda like a leaf spring really maybe its not such a werid idea as its really kinda genus. cause your rigs look super light weight and simple to maintain if you can do different spring rates or adjustments you really mite be on to some thing cause those springs you came up with don't take up any room, and up or down you got droop and sprung covered. Haters will hate that's all, im in it for fun and trying new things. I know redcat anit top of the line but I still really like them, and you have to make your on mods cause of lack of aftermarket support, which im fine with. I guess if any thing else up date your album and shoot me a pm im interested in seeing those rigs.

[MountainStorm]

I like how you got the shocks to the axles without gombering pieces of metal onto the RedCat chassis. Very neat bends in the links too. I've decided to go ahead and make all new links using the Jato ends. Looks like I'll have to revert to linkage in front of the axle though. Seems inevitable. Nice work. Thanks for the info Cabron. I was able to repurpose my RedCat links today after breaking three of them crawling and falling. Gotta break it to make it better.

[cabron]

I can adjust spring tension and ride height independently front and back
by using the perforated side plates I can make a minimal chassis for the links and skidplate and later I can make a
plastic bodiless form to mount over the chassis like most of the newer styles
I sweated for 3 years with mounting shocks and I was never happy. my super's last 3 suspensions were cantilevered shocks
(and that was a sight), what is in the album now (and that works well) and now I have the wire suspension on it and I am
waiting for a warm day to try out.

on your cvds you said you had to trim one of the cups? is that the piece that pins up to the locker shaft?
Friday I should get the first set of universals for my rs10. and in a couple of weeks I should get the second set
which are cvds. the universals should have more turning than the cvds. both have the dogbone on the inside side.

[bbolden516]

When I did the cvd mod I did all cutting and trimming to the cvd. I cut the shaft that telescopes in and out of the larger shaft of the cvd for the length issue. And the part of the cvd that replaced the cup off the diff was long as well, it would bottom out before the pin for the cup to the diff output would line up so I trimmed it right up to the pin hole. When I get the second set of cvds ill do the how to and ill even throw in the modded pins I made, way stronger than stock with zero play/slopp. BTW when I double checked your album on the last pic I got your message my bad you got it right, I just had to go to the last page where I post silly me. I wish I knew how to make awesome vids like MountainStorm it mite make things easier.

[MountainStorm]

Originally Posted by bbolden516

When I did the cvd mod I did all cutting and trimming to the cvd. I cut the shaft that telescopes in and out of the larger shaft of the cvd for the length issue. And the part of the cvd that replaced the cup off the diff was long as well, it would bottom out before the pin for the cup to the diff output would line up so I trimmed it right up to the pin hole. When I get the second set of cvds ill do the how to and ill even throw in the modded pins I made, way stronger than stock with zero play/slopp. BTW when I double checked your album on the last pic I got your message my bad you got it right, I just had to go to the last page where I post silly me. I wish I knew how to make awesome vids like MountainStorm it mite make things easier.

All it takes is thick skin and a cheap ass camera

[cabron]

nice chassis available right now in the for sale section
70.00 but it was top of the line for the xr10/brgs
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/sale/...tuff-sale.html

you will need to purchase a star to access the classifieds

[bbolden516]

ok so I got the cheaper cvds we were talking about on the cvd talk pages. they will drop right in, however they do need some fine tuning. the stock rs10 cups are to big so there is slopp. Next is the axle were it goes threw the bearing in the knuckle, you need an extra set of the large 10*15*4 bearings to take up the slack. I had some extra drive cups from my redcat volcano pro they are prefect and take up the slack. I will post my mod for you all to see here shortly.

[bbolden516]

Ok so here are the pics of the new cvds against the dog bones man were they about toast are what. As you can see yes they are pretty darn close to a drop in but some tweaks were needed to make things tight and not sloppy. They aren't as thick as the stock dog bones, where the dog bone of the cvd goes into the diff cup, had to use the volcano diff cups, already had spares.

[bbolden516]

So of Corse when I went to pull this thing apart the diff cup pins were broken, shocker right. Ha so I drilled out the new cups, I also did this on my 1st set of cvds just forgot to write it in here, to many mods to keep up with . Its roughly a 3mm or just slightly smaller then I use a stainless steal 3mm screw and tap the diff cup and the diff shaft. bam problem solved and I put in a 3mm 15mm grub screw cut and file to length. Next issue I found is that the axle has a very long machined surface so it pushes the small bearing at the end of the knuckle right out. I had a spare set so I threw them in to take up the difference. Then I just bolted it all back up.

[bbolden516]

Heres some pics of the aluminum knuckles I got for cheap of ebay NIB, next to the stockers. about $26 for 2 pairs, And the steering knuckle bushings I use are the ones from the volcano, gotta love having spares . the bushing are longer which is nice cause when you tighten the screws down for the knuckles you can get them good and tight and it doesn't make the steering hard to operate and takes the slack out.

[bbolden516]

So far they seem ok but I kinda liked the 1st set of cvds I did better. Time will tell on how they hold up, these cheap cvds do have more angle to them, meaning if I had a better knuckles like the high clearance ones or bullys or bergs Im pretty sure these cvds would have more steering. Also the wheel nut just fits, barley though. I wont be able to test more till next week ish, im going outta town for work for a bit. Ill try and get up with the forum if I can.

[iDC5]

I like it.

So, it was plug n play.....

New, CVD shafts, New cups, and I geuss a different lug nut for axle?

[cabron]

bbolden - might try getting some slimmer hexes
I ended up with enough threads to end up flush with the outer end of the nut
at least on 3 of the 4 wheels I tried.

or - it just came to me - pop the pin that goes through the cvd and drill a corresponding hole in the original
short axle and use it for the end of the cvd. you will then end up with plenty of threads.



the question is not "can it be done?" but "which way should I choose to do it?"

[iDC5]

So what do you recommend, for someone who wants,to,do this. I want angle without worry about popping dogbbone on knuckle side In a bind. These cheap ones seem ok u also bought bearings. Or would u really recommend other way?