Hello

[E10rc]

Random thoughts for thought.
I wonder if rotating the motor/trans 90 degrees to the right looking from the rear would help with tt.
What I can see:
Driveshafts would center eliminating clearance issue with links.
Motor would not be centered, but closer than stock.
Cog would increase.
Could be done with fabbed mounts using existing skid plate holes, or spaced out from the chassis plate.
Battery would need to be moved, or possibly “stood up” in fabbed trays outside the chassis plates assuming inboard lower links, thus offsetting the increased cog from the motor and allowing 2 batteries each side in parallel for increased lower cog, balance, and run times. The skid plate would still be the lowest point in my vision and the batteries could be “caged” for protection.
...... sent from the musings of a madman lol.

Discuss.


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My friend et (electrical tape) stopped by for a quick mock up of the power solution on one side.

[E10rc]

Testing battery placement.



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[the_law_man01]

Fixing link geometry and moving the shocks more vertical along with rotating the skid plate 180° takes care of TT. Link & drive shaft clearance isn't a huge issue once you do that.

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[E10rc]

Originally Posted by the_law_man01

Fixing link geometry and moving the shocks more vertical along with rotating the skid plate 180° takes care of TT. Link & drive shaft clearance isn't a huge issue once you do that.

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I have a myriad of thoughts going on here lol.
Link geometry is jacked up to my way of thinking. Making them all adjustable is essentially a waste of time after further review.
The lowers are fine for wheelbase adjustment/ pinion angle, but the uppers being directly above the pinion offer virtually no preload. It might as well be a three link “wishbone” or “y” setup.
Moving the shocks more vertical does indeed decrease tt, travel, and flex thus decreasing link /driveshaft interference but traction also suffers unless you are going for a more scale look/ action.
In a lot of cases, the tt is needed for traction to a degree.
After all this, I agree. Standing the shocks up, correcting the geometry, etc, will indeed reduce tt. But like most everything else that all has a trade off to something else.
I suppose it boils down to what you want it to do in the most efficient and capable way.





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[the_law_man01]

Yep. That's what it's all about. Do what you like. I've just been through everything you're working through now. TT isn't good for traction if it pulls a wheel off the ground all the time.
If you want a dedicated crawler, I'd say leave most of it stock or build a rock buggy chassis. If a scale truck, you could change...everything .

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[E10rc]

Originally Posted by the_law_man01

Yep. That's what it's all about. Do what you like. I've just been through everything you're working through now. TT isn't good for traction if it pulls a wheel off the ground all the time.
If you want a dedicated crawler, I'd say leave most of it stock or build a rock buggy chassis. If a scale truck, you could change...everything .

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Lol, I may just contact you for some ideas. I have a drill,and a sawz all.
I’m a cave man. Lol


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[the_law_man01]

Until I got my printer, all of my custom fab was with hacksaw, bandsaw, hammers, files, dremel, etc. Don't wait until you have all the tools you think you "need" or you'll never start.

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[E10rc]

More tire cutting and a new part showed up to use until others arrive.



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[the_law_man01]

The Integy skid looks nice.

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[E10rc]

Originally Posted by the_law_man01

The Integy skid looks nice.

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It’s not bad. Only drilled for an axial trans. though. Not going to mod either the trans or plate yet. Lowers ground clearance somewhat and adds some bottom weight, but gets me in line for other options as far as link location.


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[E10rc]

And also makes think that those unused “ears” might be a good location for short shocks and a cantilever setup, lol


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[the_law_man01]

Originally Posted by E10rc

And also makes think that those unused “ears” might be a good location for short shocks and a cantilever setup, lol


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Why aren't you using them for upper links?

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[E10rc]

Originally Posted by the_law_man01

Why aren't you using them for upper links?

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Hmm, good question. Shock interference?
I’ll try it, what the hey. I initially think it would allow lateral movement of the axle, but I have it so what not test that thought right ?
I can also see a mono shock configuration here.
Torque twist ? Yes, more.
Or, if I keep it dedicated crawler, who needs shocks anyway really. Let the shocks determine the travel from full compress to full extend.




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[the_law_man01]

I ran full droop with no springs for a bit. Did an internal spring mod (preferred for scale build). There's also a pen spring mod that you apply on the shock shaft below the shock dampener baffle in combination with regular external spring or the internal spring mod. It really helps stabilize everything. It's also fantastic for scale rigs and seems to work with crawlers well. It does lower the stance a little.

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[E10rc]

Originally Posted by the_law_man01

I ran full droop with no springs for a bit. Did an internal spring mod (preferred for scale build). There's also a pen spring mod that you apply on the shock shaft below the shock dampener baffle in combination with regular external spring or the internal spring mod. It really helps stabilize everything. It's also fantastic for scale rigs and seems to work with crawlers well. It does lower the stance a little.

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I did that as well. Tried the pen spring internal but it collapsed in rolling over on itself. Tried them external over the shafts. The ones I have in there now are big enough to prevent rolling over on themselves, but are shorter than full extension so they are used in the (compression) stroke. With the externals, I effectively have dual rate. I can remove the externals, add the collars to the externals. Add limiters inside, or combinations of both.



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[E10rc]

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[the_law_man01]

That looks good.

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[E10rc]

Actually surprising. While it still has a bit of tt on take off, it’s nothing like it was and pops back to level instead of leaning. I can’t get the body to rub now in the garage.
The weather is decent today if a little chilly so I’ll take it out back in the rocks later to see how it really does. With only 2 screws holding the transmission I don’t want to get too crazy with it.
Adding those tire cuts seem to have made them more flexible and bite harder so I may need to put the foam back in the rear. It smashes the tire almost to the point of rolling under on a smooth garage floor.


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[the_law_man01]

Suspension geometry is more significant than most folks usually consider.

As stiff as the original tires are with a short sidewall relative to the width, I don't think the fold under will be significant enough. Once the rubber breaks in and becomes more flexible, you could put the foams in and break them in as well.

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[E10rc]

Took it out for little bit but 35 degrees is not warm enough for me yet to stay long lol.
It does fairly well imo. The tires don’t roll under yet on an irregular surface like I thought they might so I’ll leave them empty for now, but they seem to bite much better on the same sharp edged landscape rock out back that I’ve running on.



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