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Old 03-02-2018, 08:24 AM   #1
Rock Stacker
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
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Default Hello

Hello all. First post to get started here just like ordering an Everest 10 that will be here later today on the postal truck to get into crawling.
I’ve been in and out of rc since the late 70’s with boats and cars mostly and currently have a slightly modded brushless e revo that I’ve had fun with and broken my share of parts on, but I figured that the cost of adding all the parts to lock the axles, install a low gear, etc. would have cost more than the E10 and would not have been as capable in the end so here I am. Now I have a crawler as well as a ripper so I can’t complain.
Anyway, looking forward to reading these topics and learning more about the crawler side of the hobby.
65 mph on 6s is fun and all, but it does get expensive after a while.


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Old 03-02-2018, 09:27 AM   #2
Quarry Creeper
 
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Default Re: Hello

Welcome. Reading through the "Cheap Stuff That Works" and "E10 Mods" threads will be good for you.

What I would recommend is:

1) a $10 "lowering kit" and retrofit where the shocks mount extending to the front and rear to stand the shocks more vertical to mostly eliminate torque twist,

2) a $10 RC4WD 35T crawler motor,

3) a $15-$20 set of metal drive shafts (search for HSP crawler on ebay, amazon, aliexpress, etc),

4) 2 $10 metal diff lockers (connect box) (again, search for HSP the Redcat is a rebrand of it)

5) take the foams out of the tires

With that $50, your E10 will likely out crawl most "name brand" crawlers.

If you're intending on going for a more "scale" truck, I would recommend the Gen7.

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Last edited by the_law_man01; 03-02-2018 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 03-02-2018, 12:22 PM   #3
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Default Hello

Quote:
Originally Posted by the_law_man01 View Post
Welcome. Reading through the "Cheap Stuff That Works" and "E10 Mods" threads will be good for you.

What I would recommend is:

1) a $10 "lowering kit" and retrofit where the shocks mount extending to the front and rear to stand the shocks more vertical to mostly eliminate torque twist,

2) a $10 RC4WD 35T crawler motor,

3) a $15-$20 set of metal drive shafts (search for HSP crawler on ebay, amazon, aliexpress, etc),

4) 2 $10 metal diff lockers (connect box) (again, search for HSP the Redcat is a rebrand of it)

5) take the foams out of the tires

With that $50, your E10 will likely out crawl most "name brand" crawlers.

If you're intending on going for a more "scale" truck, I would recommend the Gen7.

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Thank you sir. I actually also ordered the parts for rear steer as I already have an external castle bed and extra servos. At the same time I picked up an axial 35t motor and the axial droop kit I saw in another topic here. I assume that’s similar to the “lowering kit”.
The truck is here and I’ve already moved the shocks out, installed the rear steer bits, and removed the foams as you and others have mentioned while the battery is on the supplied charger. I have 7 cell nims and 2s 5000 mah 40c lipos but they are set up for the Traxxas charger and e revo connectors so I need to get adapters.
The metal driveshafts are planned and the “nubs” I’ve seen others talk of grinding off the bottom of the axle housings where a skid plate might mount are not on this kit.
The diff lockers are in the amazon cart as well as a hobby king 1080 crawler esc just in case.
Also may get a set of soft ripsaws later as well.
I’ll drive it a bit as it is then change the radio over to the dx4c I bought a few years ago for the e revo and never installed to get the rear steer going.
So far so good at this point.
Thanks again for your input. Much appreciated.


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Last edited by E10rc; 03-02-2018 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 03-02-2018, 04:32 PM   #4
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Default Re: Hello

Quote:
Originally Posted by E10rc View Post
Thank you sir. I actually also ordered the parts for rear steer as I already have an external castle bed and extra servos. At the same time I picked up an axial 35t motor and the axial droop kit I saw in another topic here. I assume that’s similar to the “lowering kit”.
The truck is here and I’ve already moved the shocks out, installed the rear steer bits, and removed the foams as you and others have mentioned while the battery is on the supplied charger. I have 7 cell nims and 2s 5000 mah 40c lipos but they are set up for the Traxxas charger and e revo connectors so I need to get adapters.
The metal driveshafts are planned and the “nubs” I’ve seen others talk of grinding off the bottom of the axle housings where a skid plate might mount are not on this kit.
The diff lockers are in the amazon cart as well as a hobby king 1080 crawler esc just in case.
Also may get a set of soft ripsaws later as well.
I’ll drive it a bit as it is then change the radio over to the dx4c I bought a few years ago for the e revo and never installed to get the rear steer going.
So far so good at this point.
Thanks again for your input. Much appreciated.


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This thing has surprised me already. What the e revo does with brute power and wheel speed in a semi crawling environment that I didn’t think this would do, it does with no effort.
I think I’m gonna like this already.
No cogging as with the brushless at such low speed, it’s light but it does well out of the box basically.
It crawled up the “corner” of 2 straw bales opposed at a 45 degree angle without any effort whereas the revo would have taken a couple tries and full-throttle 4s hop just to have a chance.
It crawled up the porch steps as if nothing.
Lol, sorry I sound like a kid but what the hey. I’m hooked.
I told my girlfriend, this little thing will never do what purple passion ( the e revo) can do and no it won’t. It can’t wheelie, backflip, throw rocks, throw a rooster, can’t do any of that while moving walking speed flat out.... but that’s not what it’s meant to do, it just crawls over the rocks it can’t throw.
I just saved a bunch of money on the e revo by switching to an Everest and I have no complaints as yet.
(Grinning from both ears) lol




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Old 03-02-2018, 08:55 PM   #5
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Default Re: Hello

Hey E10, good find and setup with the Everest; congrats! Since you're in the market for tires, may I suggest these $19 cheapies? They're soft rubber Super Swamper clones.

BTW Please keep posting on your rebuild progress as a lot of folks get the Everest 10, especially for kids and grandchildren. It's good to know that they can be very capable with a little TLC. ;)

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Old 03-03-2018, 04:31 PM   #6
Rock Stacker
 
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Default Re: Hello

Thanks Stomper, I’ll check out those tires.
Got the radio changed out to my dx4c, got all the rear steer bits installed, got everything set in the radio for aws today.
I also added some weight to the wheels to see what that does to traction.
Just general tinkering for the most part today.
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Old 03-04-2018, 08:11 AM   #7
I wanna be Dave
 
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Default Re: Hello

The worst thing about the e10 is the chassie its alittle to wide and the suspention geomitry sucks the upper links need to be in the area that was cut out and the lowervlinks need moved inward on the chassie ,make your own chassie and skid if your looking for a project i made mine out of a cutting board and i love it im running ruptures up front and chissles in the rear the cheap tires arent any better than the stock ones i belive that some cutting and sipping will bring them to life and make them better than those cheap austar tires the ripsaws are great when cyt and sipped but they dont hold a candle to the ruptures i used the chissles on the rear because there only 5.4" tall and gives me a bit of under drive the ruptures are almost 6" tall you can remove the springs from the shocks and run it in droop and you cog goes way down if you set the e10 up right its as good as any other rig out there in my opinion anyway

Last edited by THX_138; 04-21-2018 at 02:50 AM.
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Old 03-04-2018, 09:08 AM   #8
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Default Hello

Thanks ferp.
I actually got a wild hair this morning and did some cutting on the stock tires. If I ruin them so be it. From what I’ve read, not many like them so we’ll see how it goes. If that bad and I replace them, then it’s no big deal if I make them worse by hacking on them.
My thing is I won’t really know if I helped them or not as I’ve not had it outside very much yet. The stock tread would crawl right up the vertical side of a plastic storage tote in the garage for whatever that’s worth.
I have something in mind for the suspension that will require a few parts that I may try later. I’m seeing the tires rubbing the shock springs at full turn with it flexed a bit so I may try to get those out of the way.
Time and tinkering will tell I suppose.


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Old 03-04-2018, 10:30 AM   #9
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Default Re: Hello

I over cut my rears so start small then cut again after testing them im gona get another set someday i realy like them just not on a crawler just not enuff grip i want to run them on my 1/6th scale f150 build too bad the hex striped out of the wheels i realy like those too cosidering how cheap the wheels and tirez are there a great choice for learning how to mod tires i say cut test then repete till you ruin them or are happy with them or tiered of them lol
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Old 03-05-2018, 08:03 AM   #10
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Tinkerings



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Old 03-05-2018, 10:38 AM   #11
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E10rc: That is such a simple way to triangulate the lower links that it makes me feel stupid for buying a new skid. Do the rod ends go through the suspension's full range of motion without binding? I might just have to try that on my other son's gen7.
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Old 03-05-2018, 11:09 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLetterJ View Post




E10rc: That is such a simple way to triangulate the lower links that it makes me feel stupid for buying a new skid. Do the rod ends go through the suspension's full range of motion without binding? I might just have to try that on my other son's gen7.


Thanks J
Yes they do in my setup.
The reason one is opposite from the others is to clear the motor can on full compression/ flex. It messes with my ocd, but until version 2, it works for now lol.
They are close to the driveshafts, but don’t hit/ bind throughout full travel/flex.

I just had an idea and used what was available at the time for testing. I have ordered 2 more factory skids for updated versions and stainless hardware with countersunk screws to smooth out the bottom.




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Old 03-05-2018, 12:05 PM   #13
Rock Stacker
 
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Finally a little outside stuff. Still too cold here today for me to be out long, but better than nothing I suppose.


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Old 03-05-2018, 07:51 PM   #14
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Nice work on those skid plates guys! I like the 4ws too; what radio are you using?
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Old 03-05-2018, 09:04 PM   #15
Rock Stacker
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StomperCrawler View Post
Nice work on those skid plates guys! I like the 4ws too; what radio are you using?


In my case, Spektrum dx4c.


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Old 03-06-2018, 02:02 PM   #16
Rock Stacker
 
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Default Re: Hello

The start of a fully adjustable 4 link for pinion/steering (caster)angle, preload, & wheelbase.
Shown in the factory chassis location as it’s easier to wrench on.


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Old 03-07-2018, 06:55 PM   #17
Rock Stacker
 
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Default Re: Hello

Replaced the stock plastic hexes with aluminum today. Except for the small weight addition, not impressed. They introduced wheel wobble due to the center hole being a bit too large. In addition, they are almost a press fit into the wheel so they come off with the wheel and allow the pin fall out if it happens to be vertical.


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Old 03-08-2018, 08:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StomperCrawler View Post
Cool. Any pics of your custom skid plate?
Sorry i lagged so hard geting a pic

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Old 03-08-2018, 10:18 AM   #19
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Sorry i lagged so hard geting a pic

Looks good; thanks for the pic! No worries about timing; better late than never, I always say.
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Old 03-08-2018, 11:46 AM   #20
Rock Stacker
 
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Default Hello

More tinkering as usual.
Cobbled together a “shox box” to play with shock angle as well as adding internal springs to play around with rates while waiting for some other tidbits to arrive.



Oh, and gave it a smooth belly.

Last edited by E10rc; 03-08-2018 at 11:51 AM.
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