need advice on steering upgrades for my gen 7

[pearing]

Been making mods to this rig and I am trying to be proactive (instead of reactive) to problem areas (read, what is going to break next...) and the steering has been on my mind. I am new to RC and cars specifically, so I need some help here:

What I want to do is replace my steering servo and arm. Thinking of an aluminum Axial AX 30836 servo arm and a Savox SW-1210 SG steering servo.
Any input on either of these items? Options if they are insufficient? Expensive I can stomach if the items work well.

Do I need a voltage regulator? from what I have read I will need one. I am looking at the Castle CC BEC 2.0 Is this enough? Are there voltage/amperage values I need to meet? Compatibility problems?

Thanks in advance!

Pat

[brimdogg]

BEC is never a bad idea, not familiar with that servo.
Not sure if you have a sport or pro, but the CVD axles are better than dog bone, especially if you go aluminum c hubs and carriers.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

[cjhike]

Been running my rig for eight months now, it is the pro model and I haven’t broken anything. Just drive it and have fun would be my advice.

[Jim85IROC]

The Gen7's biggest Achilles heal, in my opinion, is the steering. Fortunately, there are a lot of free and inexpensive things you can do to improve it.

With respect to the servo arm, having the longer arm is a very helpful upgrade, especially once you extend your steering angle. The stock short arm can't turn the drag link enough to the left to achieve full steering once you do the other modifications, so having the longer arm and installing it slightly tilted will restore full steering.

As for servos, there are a million options. I'd look at the "cheap servo hotness" thread in the Electronics forum for suggestions. I personally run the Turnigy MG959v2 directly from the Redcat ESC, and I'm very happy with the performance.

[ferp420]

I would just run it till it breaks i did the proactive thing with my redcat e10 the new upgraded parts were the only parts that failed lol after 3 years of abuse and its the loaner rig so it gets driven by people whe have never driven rc before the only redcat parts to fail werd the servo and the transmission broke in half the gears were still good though the plastic locker is still good and the dog bones are still good the motor is.still good and i havent had any gear issues
The trans was only $15 and the servo was a cheap $20 version
Other than that i added axial iron cross in the rear and rear lockouts and axial shafts the heavy duty driveshafts tossed a pin and ate the stock spur gear the axle shafts striped out because i used wraith lockouts instead of scx10 lockouts and the wraith ones ar3 about 1/4 longer than the scx10 ones and the scx10 shafts were to short i ended up using exmod shafts and shaved them down a bit and i have cheap cheap aluminum shocks in droop had i left it stock i would have only replaced 2 parts in 3 years

If you want to ensure your rig is allways up and running get another one as back up lol

[TheLetterJ]

If you're using the stock servo, you'll want a 25tooth/spline horn, something in the 20-24mm (center to center of mounting holes.) Cheap ones like this will work fine: https://m.ebay.com/itm/25T-CNC-Alumi...temCondition=3

edit: this one is still cheap, but more visually appealing: https://m.ebay.com/itm/1pc-1-25-25T-...temCondition=3

[pearing]

As I read the threads here I realize I must be very hard on my rig... I got about 10 minutes of play before the first part(s) started letting loose and it has been a long road to get to the point where I can drive this thing. The front end is all new and bomber (now), as is the transmission... so see my point? Being proactive I might get some driving time-clearly that is where the problem lies; my driving and the terrain I am choosing, but I am getting better.

That said I am going to make the changes I am just looking for advice-seems you all are able to use the stock Redcat plastic parts and have them survive... not my strength. The aluminum parts are holding up as are the very expensive VVD axles and steel locker (although I have yet to do anything to the rear axle...). My questions still stand. Can you guys offer advice or a direction to look/research to help inform my upgrades?

Thanks

Pat

[Gramps]

Did you watch any of the videos from Budget RC that Jim85IROC mentioned above. They are full of good tips for modding and upgrading a Gen 7. There are 7 videos I think watch them all. Should answer a lot of your questions.

Originally Posted by pearing

As I read the threads here I realize I must be very hard on my rig... I got about 10 minutes of play before the first part(s) started letting loose and it has been a long road to get to the point where I can drive this thing. The front end is all new and bomber (now), as is the transmission... so see my point? Being proactive I might get some driving time-clearly that is where the problem lies; my driving and the terrain I am choosing, but I am getting better.

That said I am going to make the changes I am just looking for advice-seems you all are able to use the stock Redcat plastic parts and have them survive... not my strength. The aluminum parts are holding up as are the very expensive VVD axles and steel locker (although I have yet to do anything to the rear axle...). My questions still stand. Can you guys offer advice or a direction to look/research to help inform my upgrades?

Thanks

Pat

[CT Yankee]

I recently got a Gen 7 Sport and it came with high clearance steering and the curved linkage. The initial failure point was the plastic c hubs. The right side was flexing so much the dogbone would pop out and get wedged, which lead to the c hub snapping and the dogbone being worn to the point of failure. I have upgraded to aluminum c hubs, and also ended up putting in Redcat CV axles from the pro which had a failure during the first run. I have replaced the bad pin with one I made which is holding while I wait for a couple sets of new dogbones and drive cups. Aside from those couple of issues, I love how the truck runs.

[pearing]

Watched the videos-thanks for those. Made the jump today: new Savox servo, Castle BEC and a cheapie 25 t aluminum steering arm. Figured out all the wiring and and soldered it all together. Works great, and very strong. Maybe not necessary but lots of lessons with wiring and electricity... I feel better too. Well, until it breaks again that is.

Thanks for the help and ideas everyone!

Pat