Allanon1965 tries out a Gen 8 Scout II

[allanon1965]

Snow shot with new wheel/tires

[allanon1965]

I have not had a single issue with the hump in the skid. I honestly think its a non issue, making a mountain out of a mole hill. anytime I got on anything that was hitting it, the rig slid a little one way or the other and kept right on going. The running boards (sliders) on the sides are the same height as the hump is... again, non issue. My new wheels and tires with 350 slw hubs do not rub the steering linkage now and it performs very well out of the box with the exception of the stock foams being hard as a brick when cold.

The plastics are much firmer that Axials plastics and I think they will be more durable.

[Browneye]

The same thing I found with portal axles. There's more to 'driving' than clearance.

[allanon1965]

I put in LED's last night and I have come across one thing that just friggin irritates the crap outta me! The front headlight buckets have 2 holes for LED's that are at the edge of the buckets..I HATE that! It looks ridiculous! The tail lights are fine.. I guess if this is all that irritates me I should be happy, I know its aesthetics, but still...... I hope someone comes out with a more realistic light bucket for this rig.

[kincer]

I'm sure someone will come up with something for the headlight buckets at some point, I don't care for that or the flares so far.

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by kincer

I'm sure someone will come up with something for the headlight buckets at some point, I don't care for that or the flares so far.

I really dont mind the flares....I am sure I am in the minority there though lol

[DukeMinnix]

I've been contemplating grafting in axial light bucket instead of those front buckets for that very reason. Time will tell though once I actually get around to messing with the thing.

[Gramps]

Maybe it’s so you can have low & high beam headlights like on a 1:1

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by Gramps

Maybe it’s so you can have low & high beam headlights like on a 1:1

I am sure it is, but 1:1 don't have the bulbs laid out like that and it just bugs be to no end...

[allanon1965]

I am thinking about changing the stock motor out for a HH 550 rebuildable. I believe the stock 550 motor is a 17t, but I would go with a 21t HH 550 TM Expert or Pro... The 17t stocker feels just a tad too fast for my liking. Anyone else have an opinion on it? (preferably those who own it now)

Then again, I may just say screw it and go brushless lol!

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by allanon1965

I am thinking about changing the stock motor out for a HH 550 rebuildable. I believe the stock 550 motor is a 17t, but I would go with a 21t HH 550 TM Expert or Pro... The 17t stocker feels just a tad too fast for my liking. Anyone else have an opinion on it? (preferably those who own it now)

Then again, I may just say screw it and go brushless lol!

I was planning to do the same and swap to a 1080 at same time

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by DukeMinnix

I was planning to do the same and swap to a 1080 at same time

same here with the esc...not sure yet how I am going to go..

[mgputer]

I have been planning on switching to the 21 or 27. I would like a touch more torque and control. Also the 17t doesn't offer the best battery life. It's fun in the snow though.

Sent from my Vivo XI+ using Tapatalk

[Gramps]

Originally Posted by allanon1965

I am thinking about changing the stock motor out for a HH 550 rebuildable. I believe the stock 550 motor is a 17t, but I would go with a 21t HH 550 TM Expert or Pro... The 17t stocker feels just a tad too fast for my liking. Anyone else have an opinion on it? (preferably those who own it now)

Then again, I may just say screw it and go brushless lol!

Add a tooth to the pinion, that will slow it down a bit & give you a bit more torque. I think it has a 17t pinion, might need to go to 19t to get it the way you want it. I do that before I changed the motor out.

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by Gramps

Add a tooth to the pinion, that will slow it down a bit & give you a bit more torque. I think it has a 17t pinion, might need to go to 19t to get it the way you want it. I do that before I changed the motor out.

I have never been a fan of the stock throw away motors in RTR rigs, the Holmes Hobbies Torque Master Pro 550 21t will be much better that the stock motor, more power and rebuildable to boot... but as I said, I might just go brushless with it.. decisions, decisions lol

BTW adding a tooth to the pinion will not slow it down, it will speed it up, now adding a tooth to the spur will slow it down...

the 17t pinion gives me a 2.64 ratio and the 19t pinion gives me a 2.36 ratio. Now a 15t pinion gives me a 3.00 ratio and should do the trick if I stay with the stock motor. I may try the 15t and the holmes motor and see how it does.

I will need to drop the pinion down to around 15 to slow it down a bit... but the 21t holmes motor should slow it down a bit but give me much more power to work with..

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by allanon1965

I have never been a fan of the stock throw away motors in RTR rigs, the Holmes Hobbies Torque Master Pro 550 21t will be much better that the stock motor, more power and rebuildable to boot... but as I said, I might just go brushless with it.. decisions, decisions lol

BTW adding a tooth to the pinion will not slow it down, it will speed it up, now adding a tooth to the spur will slow it down...

the 17t pinion gives me a 2.64 ratio and the 19t pinion gives me a 2.36 ratio. Now a 15t pinion gives me a 3.00 ratio and should do the trick if I stay with the stock motor. I may try the 15t and the holmes motor and see how it does.

I will need to drop the pinion down to around 15 to slow it down a bit... but the 21t holmes motor should slow it down a bit but give me much more power to work with..

I was watching a video on YouTube yesterday of one of the reviewers switching to mamba X and brushless Holmes puller 540. He said it has a 12t pinion in stock form, maybe he misspoke, but that’s what he claims. Just food for thought, I haven’t cracked open the pinion cover to check.

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by DukeMinnix

I was watching a video on YouTube yesterday of one of the reviewers switching to mamba X and brushless Holmes puller 540. He said it has a 12t pinion in stock form, maybe he misspoke, but that’s what he claims. Just food for thought, I haven’t cracked open the pinion cover to check.

I will have to check and see, the manual states 17t but they could realistically put any size in there lol

[Gramps]

Originally Posted by allanon1965

I have never been a fan of the stock throw away motors in RTR rigs, the Holmes Hobbies Torque Master Pro 550 21t will be much better that the stock motor, more power and rebuildable to boot... but as I said, I might just go brushless with it.. decisions, decisions lol

BTW adding a tooth to the pinion will not slow it down, it will speed it up, now adding a tooth to the spur will slow it down...

the 17t pinion gives me a 2.64 ratio and the 19t pinion gives me a 2.36 ratio. Now a 15t pinion gives me a 3.00 ratio and should do the trick if I stay with the stock motor. I may try the 15t and the holmes motor and see how it does.

I will need to drop the pinion down to around 15 to slow it down a bit... but the 21t holmes motor should slow it down a bit but give me much more power to work with..

Sorry your correct I had it backwards.


I’m not a big fan of stock motors but I will normally run them to they crap out then replace them with a Holmes.


I don’t like brushless motors in crawler, they just don’t have good low end startup unless it’s sensored. But it’s all personal preference.

[allanon1965]

Ok I am updating this post. I have had it out a few times this week, too cold to stay out long, no issues except the damn velcro wont stay on the inner fenders and body. The instructions say the recesses on the inner fenders and body are for 1/2 inch magnets to be used if desired. I am buying these magnets on ebay and going to attach them with 3mm hardware that we normally use on our crawlers.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/N35-Counter...frcectupt=true

this will keep the magnets in place and keep the body in place. I am debating whether or not to just use magnets on the body or try strips of thin metal I have in the garage. The magnets would be on the inner fenders and the strips would be on the body. I will mount the strips in the same fashion as the magnets so that if its not strong enough, then the magnets will fit in the existing spots still.

They have different strengths of these from n35 (weakest) to n52 (strongest). There may be others but this is what is listed. I dont want to use the strongest and then find out I literally tear the body getting it off. If the weakest wont hold well enough, at least it will give me and idea of how much stronger I will need to go.

[allanon1965]

Replaced the velcro on my gen8 with magnets. The manual specifies using magnets on the recessed parts on the inner fenders so I though I would try it..needs some tweaking as the inner fenders and body mounts don't line up perfectly..i trimmed some of the front of the front inner fenders to get a good fit. They seem to hold well, time on the course will tell if I need larger or stronger magnets

The front inner fenders fit to the body portion is off quite a bit, that is what is pulling the velcro loose from the plastic. Cutting the front inner fender at the front curve gets rid of the issue but some may not like the result, I dont really care as I dont see that anyway..