Danchee ridgerock

[MattG99]

Finally got out and filmed, scrubbed through a little over a hour of footage. Allot of failed runs that didn't make it, some breakage but always a fun time. Around 15 minutes but some great climbs. Enjoy
https://youtu.be/cK0dYEMuRtc

[bbolden516]

MattG99,

Great video, love the wheels and tires, nice lower links and I noticed the wheel weights on the servo. All great mods, what wheels are you running and tires compound and such? Always keep it up I subbed and liked the video turn on your comments

Not sure if this help but I've seen people cut those boggers and get better performance in the mud not sure what it would do for the rocks

Here's a video I seen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSXxZiJxup0

[MattG99]

I believe they are a x3 compound, I vented the front 2 after that day to see how it will perform, but haven't been back out. I believe the wheels are from a wraith, that wheel and tire setup was given to me by a friend. Had to re- grease the diffs after noticing how loud they were. Just fixed the comments, thanks. Going to try and unglue the deep woods I have and run some pro line foams next.

[bbolden516]

MattG99, sounds good look forward to seeing the new setup, I recently went kinda crazy on my rig and chopped the chassis in half and shaved out almost an inch in length in-between the lower link mounts, I tested it today but it was wet from a very foggy day so not a good base for a test, however with less of a belly to scrape on it seemed like it did well, slightly better turning radius as well, when I get some time ill post some pics and videos

[MattG99]

Now that's cool, did you run into any room issues mounting the electronics back in.

[bbolden516]

MattG99, no issues really just some new double sided stick tape and the esc had to be mounted to the bottom of the battery tray cause the lower skid it was mounted too is far to small currently tdy so ill post pics and video when I get a chance.

[Jamus]

Hey guys, my danchee should be delivered tomorrow. I've been away from crawling for a while. I have a gen8 pack with a xj hardbody but am taking my time on the body which means I don't drive it much. I always liked the moa design, had a duratrax cliff climber which wasn't very good. I have a bad habit of not leaving things alone so I've already got a few mods planned out, firstly tires. I have some old proline chisels, I'm assuming they would perform better than the stock tires. After seeing cpac's video on aluminum hubs it got me thinking. I have some 3racing portal knuckles meant for the tamiya cr01 which have the same cup size and similar kingpin spacing as the volcano hubs he used, I had parts from one of those laying around as well. I'm surprised to not see any custom chassis, though for such a cheap rig I guess its not worth it.

[Jamus]

Finally got a chance to take the danchee out on the rocks this evening. All stock except for the proline chisels, stock tires were so hard I didn't even bother. It did really well but found out quick where I need to modify. This thing has way too much suspension travel, for where I crawl anyway. The tires just get sucked under rocks and I was afraid of stripping gears. Also the servos are weak, but I expected that and have upgrades sitting here ready to go. Bent lower links and solid steering links are on the to-do list as well. I might get all those things done before messing around with the portal knuckles.

[bbolden516]

Jamus, you are correct on all the needed mods I ended up taking some of the bend out of my lower links and making them more of an arch so that the axle would snag less, ill post pics when I get home and get time. Looking forward to seeing your portal hubs in action and maybe a how to and parts list if they are compatible.

[Jamus]

I messed around with the portals all evening and have figured out a few things and ran into more problems. The main issue is with the axle joint design. The CR01 knuckles are designed for a dogbone style ball/pin end. The cross pin on the danchee is too long, fixed that with wheel hex pins, same 2mm diameter. Then once I got that figured out and got them bolted on I ran into the biggest issue, steering angle. I might be able to grind the cups on the portals to get a little more angle, we used to do that back in the TLT days. Or with 4 wheel steer it might not be as bad. I do like the portals though, they add width, strength, and gear reduction. As for a parts list, these hubs have been discontinued for over a decade so I doubt anyone will follow in my footsteps.

[Jamus]

I need 2 more kingpin bolts before I can bolt up the rear portal hubs. Does anyone know where I could find them? They have m4 thread and the shoulder is 5mm. I tried looking on ebay but must be using the wrong terminology.

[bbolden516]

Jamus, those portal hubs look rad, higher clearance both on steering and overall ground clearance, I wish i could find some, and as far as the king pin bolt I'm not sure I understand which one you are referring too, maybe a pic or diagram pointing to the bolt you are wanting.

[bbolden516]

Chassis Chop pics what do you guys think, also I did pull some of the bend out of my lower links to minimize the axles from hanging up.

[Jamus]

I like the chassis mod, for some reason I was thinking you narrowed it rather than shortening the wheelbase.

The bolts I need are called "step screws" by redcat.
https://www.redcatracing.com/product...30993828872282

I need those dimensions but with a M4 thread for aluminum instead of the screw thread meant for plastic. I had 4 in my spare parts bin but have no clue where they came from. If I had 4 more, I could have the portals on and running, though with limited steering.

[bbolden516]

Jamus, I would like to narrow the chassis as well, less skid plate the better, those screws I know are a pain almost easier to over size the hole in the c hub attachment point on the axle and use and 3mm machine screw with a bushing and probably a washer. Good luck to you on this venture cause unfortunately the parts you need aren't made have to fab up something.

[Jamus]

I found some from a hpi savage that might work. I was also thinking of messing with the suspension and trying to convert it to a 4-link. The 3-link design seems to be really common on cheaper crawlers but I can't imagine they saved much money.

[bbolden516]

Jamus, your probably right that they didn't really save much, but for the price point of this danchee its arguably one of the best bang for your buck crawlers out there, looking forward to seeing what you come up with on the 4 link.

[Anthuan]

Great thread, inspired me to mod my Ravine immediately after getting it.

Bought Ravine last week, drove it inside once, went online to search for improvements (mostly on this thread), tadaa! Went a bit crazy with low budget mods.

Added +50g weights on each wheel and cut the original foam inserts on star shape. Also trimmed a bit of the tyre threads.

Pen spring mod, added springs inside the shock shaft to shorten spring travel and add slightly outwards flex on extreme flex angles of suspension. Spring travel changed from 97mm to 88mm. Also changed shock oil while they were disassembled.

Made diy lower links to add more clearance going over obstacles. Used 4mm aluminium rod and traxxas 5347 spare parts. Perfect fit, really satisfied with these.

Spent total of 20 euros for these mods and around 3 hours of time. Thanks for inspiration!

Lähetetty minun AC2003 laitteesta Tapatalkilla

[bbolden516]

Anthuan, Great looking rig, love the mods, glad you were inspired best bang for you buck crawler IMO, it never stops lol. Just when I think I have my rig dialed in I get the itch to try something new. A lot of my most recent inspiration comes from the scaler world with the Low Cg belly draggers, I going to try to fab up or rig up some portals next like (Jamus). Anyways again love the rig cool to see that different countries have the same stuff just slightly rebranded, love your body colors they are sharp. Love to see what you do next.
Here's my newest Video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJQNVaAkITY

[bbolden516]

Modded my Battery mounting position again, took the front servo out to put the battery strap under it. Then I just mount the battery on top of the front servo, giving me front un sprung CG, and the best part is I dont have to remove the body to swap packs.