Danchee ridgerock

[racerfred]

Has any one upgraded their radio, I really need EPA for the steering servos.
I bought a Radiolink rc6gs, but the rear steer would either be 3 position or proportional using the knob (which I would have move my hand off of the steering wheel to adjust). I looked at the flysky gt3c, but it would need to be hacked, voltage regulator, power switch replaced, bearing added. Would it be worth it for a cheap radio, on the fence.

[racerfred]

Added steering hub bushings for 3mm screws, no more slop.
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[bbolden516]

racerfred, I like the bushings you added were did you get them?
as far as radio's the hacked flysky gt3c was cool but its kinda a pain, honestly for the money and the process its way easier to just get a flysky gt5 and its all setup. In my opinion

[racerfred]

The bushings are actually tubing, the front are steel from the original blackfoot and the rear are K&S brass cut to size. Just dremel out the hole a little and press to fit the bushings in, or you could get C hub/steering bushings. I just used what I had.

I like the stock radio's one button steering mode selector, as to opposed to a menu scroll wheel/button. It will cost me to get that in another radio along with epa's. Still thinking and looking, maybe stick radio.

[bgredjeep]

Originally Posted by racerfred

Has any one upgraded their radio, I really need EPA for the steering servos.
I bought a Radiolink rc6gs, but the rear steer would either be 3 position or proportional using the knob (which I would have move my hand off of the steering wheel to adjust). I looked at the flysky gt3c, but it would need to be hacked, voltage regulator, power switch replaced, bearing added. Would it be worth it for a cheap radio, on the fence.

You should be able to set up channel mixing for rear steer with that radio. I believe you could use the switches to swap between multiple mix modes. Search YouTube for that radio and 4ws there should be some guys showing how to set it up.

[racerfred]

Originally Posted by bgredjeep

You should be able to set up channel mixing for rear steer with that radio. I believe you could use the switches to swap between multiple mix modes. Search YouTube for that radio and 4ws there should be some guys showing how to set it up.

Yes you can set up mixes, but you can not change them on the fly via a switch or a knob to change steering modes. Here is what I wrote to Radio Link.

"I have a RC crawler (Redcat Danchee Ridgerock) that has four wheel steering, the current RTR radio has a mode button to change the steering modes. The four modes are front steer, front/ rear opposite, crab, and rear only, all proportional on the steering wheel. I would like to do the same on your radio using the three way switch, front steer, front/rear opposite, and crab mode all proportional. The switch would be used to control the mode of steering, not to control the servo itself. I am able to control the rear servo with the switch (3 positions) or the channel 3 knob proportional but I have to take my hand off the steering wheel to do so. Is it possible to have proportional four wheel steering using the steering wheel for three different steering modes?
I look forward to your reply.

The reply,

Dear Fred
Thanks for you using Radiolink RC6GS transmitter.
Up to now ,RC6GS can not set the function as you need. but I have feedback your needs to our R&D department, It may be achieved by upgrading the firmware, or through the new 8CH transmitter for the purpose. If there is further information, I will contace you.

Best Regards.
Carol

Thanks and Best Regards.

[racerfred]

For a reference I measured the output voltage going to the servos, It was 4.74 volts. Taking into account my cheap VOM, it was probably 4.8 volts. I don't have an easy way to measure amps, but I can imagine it puts out maybe 4 amps for the two servos. Just a FYI.

[racerfred]

Originally Posted by racerfred

I was looking to order these, they should fit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Metal...4383.l4275.c10

The pinions arrived, unfortunately the mesh is off.
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[Arathiz]

So first time post long time builder. I have access and use a wide range of 3d printers. I am looking at the exploded view of the Ridge Rock drive shaft and gear assembly in axles. https://dealer.redcatracing.com/manu..._BG_MANUAL.pdf
Being newish to RC Crawling what are the weak componets in the axle. I might be able to make them out of high end nylon or resin to give us an option for durable cheap MOA designs.

[racerfred]

Originally Posted by Arathiz

So first time post long time builder. I have access and use a wide range of 3d printers. I am looking at the exploded view of the Ridge Rock drive shaft and gear assembly in axles. https://dealer.redcatracing.com/manu..._BG_MANUAL.pdf
Being newish to RC Crawling what are the weak componets in the axle. I might be able to make them out of high end nylon or resin to give us an option for durable cheap MOA designs.

People are wanting metal gears so that they can run 3s without destroying the stock plastic gears. The quality of the plastics used are not great, but useable. I would love to have metal outdrive cups, the stock develop slop from axle shaft pin wear. I have really broke any plastic yet (maybe not driving hard enough).
Has anyone broken the hub carriers or steering hubs yet?

[charlieboyd65]

Originally Posted by Arathiz

So first time post long time builder. I have access and use a wide range of 3d printers. I am looking at the exploded view of the Ridge Rock drive shaft and gear assembly in axles. https://dealer.redcatracing.com/manu..._BG_MANUAL.pdf
Being newish to RC Crawling what are the weak componets in the axle. I might be able to make them out of high end nylon or resin to give us an option for durable cheap MOA designs.

My nephew and I both have these heavily modded, and push them to and beyond their limits. Here is a list of weaknesses in order of biggest issue to smallest (IMO of course).

Outer steering knuckles. We have probably each gone through 15-20 for each of us. Seriously..we constantly order spares. They brake where the tie rod attaches.to the knuckle arm. Have a buddy that is actually machining a set of steel knuckles for me on a lathe. Will out weight down low and be very strong. This would be a very easy part for a company to manufacture and sell. I wish someone would do it. We run the 20 KG servos, so it's not like it's got a Reefs triple 7 cranking on it. Stock knuckles are just weak. LOL

Axle gears. Not nearly as bad as the knuckles but we've killed a few sets. Probably 2-3 for each of us.

Plastic tie rods. We broke a few and replaced with all thread sleeved with brake line tubing and Traxxas rod ends. This might be part of the reason we break so many knuckles. The metal tie rod will not give and break so something else will.

The set screws that hold the axle cross pins back out of the axles shafts and the cross pins fall out or bend. Mandatory loctite part.

Plastic cups for axles in outer knuckles. Actually take quite a bit of abuse but we've still managed to demolish a few.

The chassis. Yep, we've broken a couple.

I should say that we do not jump, bash, or drop our rigs. Pure rock crawling. But they are on Hyrax 2.2 tires with predator compound and they do get bound op sometimes. I ran mine on 3s mostly and nephew sticks to 2s to try to save parts.

I now have a 4ws steer Bully with F/R dig and mixing using a GT3C radio and receiver. HH mini br dual. It can do some stupid stuff. And, the modded Danchee hangs pretty close with it. Dig helps me do stuff the Danchee can't some times, but the real difference is the Bully is just much stronger and more durable.

[charlieboyd65]

Originally Posted by racerfred

Has any one upgraded their radio, I really need EPA for the steering servos.
I bought a Radiolink rc6gs, but the rear steer would either be 3 position or proportional using the knob (which I would have move my hand off of the steering wheel to adjust). I looked at the flysky gt3c, but it would need to be hacked, voltage regulator, power switch replaced, bearing added. Would it be worth it for a cheap radio, on the fence.

I upgraded all my electronics to a hacked FS GT3C, FS 8 ch receiver and HH BR mini dual. Castle BEC. I love it. You can do alot of cool stuff with that radio. I have F/R dig on the fly (top thumb button), independent rear steer (middle thumb button), instant return to center on rear (lower thumb button), proportional over drive and underdrive with simple button push, and quick full lock to lock rear steer with simple buttons. Also had a channel I used for a servo as a front suck down winch.

I recently switched all the electronics to a Bully 2 with rear steer that I built. Pretty much same setup electronically without the suckdown winch (which I could use). Got tired of breaking Ridgerock knuckles and gears. But for the money the Ridgerock is awesome. I just pushed it beyond it's limits.

The FS radio and receiver is really inexpensive, but the two esc setup gets a little pricey. But, you can always transfer to a different rig down the road if you wish.

[racerfred]

Originally Posted by charlieboyd65

Outer steering knuckles. We have probably each gone through 15-20 for each of us. Seriously..we constantly order spares. They brake where the tie rod attaches.to the knuckle arm. Have a buddy that is actually machining a set of steel knuckles for me on a lathe. Will out weight down low and be very strong. This would be a very easy part for a company to manufacture and sell. I wish someone would do it. We run the 20 KG servos, so it's not like it's got a Reefs triple 7 cranking on it. Stock knuckles are just weak. LOL .

Still working on my set up, I've seen your videos on youtube. I really need a new radio (EPA's) as the steering throw of a better servo exceeds the shaft outdrive cups. I can see how the stress is transferred to the steer hubs with an upgraded steering linkage.

[racerfred]

I finally finished most of the mods.
The new steering linkage and some other mods to the rig.
https://youtu.be/kY7fgOrb2Yk

[IMG][/IMG]

[bbolden516]

racerfred,
Love the mods and the videos, I subbed and commented on your youtube as well, I think ill have to try the washers as rock rings and flipping the shocks for added CG. Keep up the great work hopefully I can get my son more interested in the crawlers, right now he seems to enjoy the faster ones and jumping and bashing.

[N1YDP]

bbolden516,where did you get the tire pump?

[racerfred]

Originally Posted by bbolden516

racerfred,
Love the mods and the videos, I subbed and commented on your youtube as well, I think ill have to try the washers as rock rings and flipping the shocks for added CG. Keep up the great work hopefully I can get my son more interested in the crawlers, right now he seems to enjoy the faster ones and jumping and bashing.

Thanks Kevin that means a lot coming from you, some of your mods are used on my rig. Metal washer rock ring thread Heavy Metal Bead Locks
Crawling is like a game of chess, one move will affect the next. Not everyone's cup of tea to go slow. I too was out of the hobby for a while (about 9-10 years). This is the best cheap rig for the performance IMO.

Charlie B had mentioned that the steering hubs are a weak point (he would know better than I). I made some 16 gauge metal tabs that I have to JB Weld on after I trim off the reinforcement around the screw hole. I haven't finished them all yet. I just want to prevent problems before they start.



Test fitting, I could use one each side if needed.

[charlieboyd65]

That looks awesome. Excited to see the finished product!

Originally Posted by racerfred

Thanks Kevin that means a lot coming from you, some of your mods are used on my rig. Metal washer rock ring thread Heavy Metal Bead Locks
Crawling is like a game of chess, one move will affect the next. Not everyone's cup of tea to go slow. I too was out of the hobby for a while (about 9-10 years). This is the best cheap rig for the performance IMO.

Charlie B had mentioned that the steering hubs are a weak point (he would know better than I). I made some 16 gauge metal tabs that I have to JB Weld on after I trim off the reinforcement around the screw hole. I haven't finished them all yet. I just want to prevent problems before they start.



Test fitting, I could use one each side if needed.

[bbolden516]

N1YDP,
Any hand pump for inflatable sport type balls will work here an example,
https://www.amazon.com/TONUNI-Extens...s%2C224&sr=8-6

racerfred, Love the tabs great reinforcement idea, still wish this little rig could get some aftermarket support. As always keep it up love the ideas,

[racerfred]

This is to relocate the mode button to a convenient location.
Do this at your own risk!

Figure out where you would like your button placement.
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Remove seven screws
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Internals, slide out the top gray panel with the circuit board.
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Disconnect the three connectors, be careful of antenna wire!
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Remove the four screws holding the circuit board to the gray panel. I used a solder sucker to remove the button from the circuit board.
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I used a small length of cat5 cable conductors and soldered the button and the circuit board.

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I drilled my hole slightly larger than the button, and hot glued it into the radio (later I used JB Weld).
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Hot glue the stock button cover on the gray panel. Test and reassemble the radio, I used a large screw head drilled out and super glued on for the button.
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