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Thread: Redcat RS10 revisited

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Old 11-16-2009, 12:24 AM   #81
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hey well the dig is awsome just the best i have tryed out, there is no locking up or nothing just right to the motor you want and as for the motors well after you get all the cutting done and the bigger motors is you will never go back to the smaller motors ever, tourqe is awsome and the wheel speed is good.
As for the knuckles what ones fit the rs-10 and where do you get them?

Thank you once again!!
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:45 AM   #82
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Hey Cvona,
Any sign of the gears possibly failing? I'm interested in doing the same thing. I've got 390 bots right now and they are a huge improvment but they won't hold a strong lock for my dig.
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Old 11-17-2009, 12:12 PM   #83
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hey well the only thing is you will haft to cut. no biggie! and after that you will haft to keep with the 10 t pinion gear thats all i recomened
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Old 11-17-2009, 12:18 PM   #84
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hey i am just wondering if there is someone has changed the spindles on there RS-10.
I was looking at the Axial spindles and they look like they will fit the RS-10 but not 100% forsure. Cn someone please help me with this and get back to me.
Thanks
Craig
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:03 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by bl8zn View Post
Here's a couple more with the lid off.....






What upper and lower links and parts did you use to do the 4 link mod?
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:10 AM   #86
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What upper and lower links and parts did you use to do the 4 link mod?
That thing looks good....
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:13 AM   #87
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4 link mod - personally I cut a small tab from aluminum and mounted it where the "wing" mounted on each axle...at first I used the original upper links, just added a set of rod ends to them and mounted them to the aluminum tabs and then to each side of my chassis. Since then I've made a set of delrin upper links for my 4 link. I actually have a set of bent links that I'm gonna use as uppers for my next chassis...I've seen folks with bergs use bent uppers to clear the motors and mount lower on the chassis instead of going straight across from the axle to the chassis. We'll see if it makes any improvement.

I'm sure bl8zn will chime in, but it looks like he used the original lower links for his upper links, and is using a set of bent lowers with the original shock mounts mounted to them.
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:09 PM   #88
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I fabbed the 4 link mount from some carbon fiber I had. The upper links are the original lower links and the lower links are now axial bent lowers.

I also cut the bottom of the frame and fabbed a skid plate out of a cutting board to get the stance and geometry as you see it in the pics. 1/2 droop.

Last edited by bl8zn; 11-18-2009 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:58 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by bl8zn View Post
I fabbed the 4 link mount from some carbon fiber I had. The upper links are the original lower links and the lower links are now axial bent lowers.

I also cut the bottom of the frame and fabbed a skid plate out of a cutting board to get the stance and geometry as you see it in the pics. 1/2 droop.
Do you have any pics of the articulation it has now? Did you lose any articulation??

Im also looking into CKRCs steering knuckles that they say help alot with steering angle but I can never get them on the phone.

Ive set out to make the RS10 a competitive crawler with as little spent as possible, mainly to show you dont have to spend thousands to compete. I already did that with a stick chassis crawler a few years ago and Ill be the first to admit that was a HUGE waste of time and money!!!
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:28 PM   #90
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possibly trying to re-configure my steering so my steering links don't get all beat up.
Since I work in a motorcycle shop Im putting carb vent tubing on the steering links, Ive done this in the past and it worked very well and lasted alot longer then using silicone nitro fuel hose. Just a thought.
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Old 11-18-2009, 09:14 PM   #91
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Not a bad idea on the carb vent tubing...I might give that a go. I'd love to do a behind the axle steering setup, but that would be basically impossible because the motors are in the way. I also like how you're setting out to make your RS10 competitive crawler. I personally don't compete, but with my rig in it's current form, I don't have a problem keeping up with the "better rigs".
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Old 11-18-2009, 11:56 PM   #92
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I have about 3/4 inch more than a soda can. My ride height is at exactly 3 inches. I'll have to take some measurements and pics of the suspension fully compressed and extended.

As a side note. I just burnt out the stock esc after rigging my dig switch. Funny though that it never let out smoke or doesn't smell burnt. Hmmm. Maybe it's the wiring. Gonna check it out.

I'm thinking of a Mamba Max but with it's size and future plans of 2 escs it maybe not the best choice. Any suggestions?

Last edited by bl8zn; 11-18-2009 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 11-19-2009, 07:30 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by bl8zn View Post
I have about 3/4 inch more than a soda can. My ride height is at exactly 3 inches. I'll have to take some measurements and pics of the suspension fully compressed and extended.

As a side note. I just burnt out the stock esc after rigging my dig switch. Funny though that it never let out smoke or doesn't smell burnt. Hmmm. Maybe it's the wiring. Gonna check it out.

I'm thinking of a Mamba Max but with it's size and future plans of 2 escs it maybe not the best choice. Any suggestions?

I upgraded to a sidewinder and a Punk dig.. Going strong on 3s lipos...

On a side note i have been seercing motors out there.. I ended up with cheep Banbots. But was not happy till i Upgraded my 3 cell lipos to the ones listed in Electronics. They are 35c and 65 burst. They made the banbots kick A$$.. 29 per and small.. I ran one last night for over 15 min and never ran out... just stoped playing...
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Old 11-19-2009, 02:42 PM   #94
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I decided since the stock body is ugly as hell and I like the buggy look, me and a friend decided to build a tube steel buggy body for the RS10. Heres the progress for far but we do have some changes to make and the plastic body pieces to fab yet. Let me know what you think.


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Old 11-19-2009, 04:26 PM   #95
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Looks good - why so tall on the front end? I have been thinking about a tuber myself.
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Old 11-19-2009, 04:34 PM   #96
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Mine is just a body and I made it so I never have to worry about tire rube or anything like that. When its actually mounted it will sit lower on the chassis, its just sitting on top of the stock body posts. This is only the first proto type.
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Old 11-20-2009, 03:33 PM   #97
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Heres updated pics of my tube body. Its all dont and the first step of paint is on the cage work and the aluminum body pieces are done. Ill have the finished pics tomorrow or the 100% finished cage/body. Also are a couple pics of my buddies RS10 rig. His has a F150 hard body with custom roll bar, front bumper and custom bent stock lower links. It crawls amazing and looks cool as hell. All the paint on his rig is all hand painted!!




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Old 11-20-2009, 03:37 PM   #98
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Definitely like the rigs. Good to see folks making tubers for these things now.
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Old 11-20-2009, 05:22 PM   #99
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This is just the first. We have already came up with a couple more tuber body designs we will be building in the near future. Thet are made from 3/16 brake line tubing and are fully welded. More pics with more mods coming soon are we develope them. I did find out though the Axial aluminum knuckles do work on our RS10 rigs!!! I know CKRC has them in stock and I will be ordering mine soon.
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:36 PM   #100
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Not hi jacking your thread but I have been using the hi steer vanquish knuckles for the ax-10 on my redcat with no issues. I like mine alot and will be competing in sportsman with it next season since it fits in our rules by being ready to run like the duratrax truck.

2S lipo does well with the stock speed control and a cutoff. Changing over to a Mamba Max just to be safe tho for comps. Still running stock motors and com drops to keep them fresh.

I have a narrowed DNA delrin SE chassis that I am switching over to this winter.
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