Official RS10 tips and tricks thread.

[Docwolf]

Originally Posted by kezark3131

i snapped my center pin in the rear diff today, quick fix for me was a needle bearing out of a ujoint fit perfect no mods were needed.

i never even thought about that, those are pretty hard too.

[Docwolf]

On this current build, I tore them clear down, super glued the pin to the place, used some larger and longer torx head machine screws i pulled from a dead hard drive to secure the gear to the spur and lock-tited everything. then I drilled the housing on the motor side at the cross hole for the counter shaft (first shaft nearest the motor) and after assembly I put a screw in to insure the shaft has enough insertion to both sides of the case, I noticed that insertion on the case half opposite the motors was about about 1/16th of an inch. I think this is where a lot of gear wear comes from. then I filled the case with a nice lite grease. the cups and bones are another problem area, need to find someone to make either CV's or at least U-joints for these. there is guy in the general forum that makes heavy duty U-joint shafts for a lot of other rigs. I suggested the redcat to him, but he never responded back. Maybe if enough of us hit him up, he will consider the market.

[jsowens]

Originally Posted by Docwolf

the cups and bones are another problem area, need to find someone to make either CV's or at least U-joints for these. there is guy in the general forum that makes heavy duty U-joint shafts for a lot of other rigs. I suggested the redcat to him, but he never responded back. Maybe if enough of us hit him up, he will consider the market.

Problem is, how many people are actually gonna be willing to drop $160 on a set of axle shafts for a RS10? I doubt enough will to actually convince someone to make them. If you're not referring to the super 300's...yeah it would be nice if someone would make a set of cvd's for under $50 like Axial did for the basic ax10 cvd's.

[Docwolf]

maybe your right, i dunno. i think these are pretty good units. of course the mounting tabs do have their issues. I like the high clearance, the alternative to that is a set of planetary off sets. i fi could find a set of decent priced CV's, I could make my own shafts.

[CantonAreaCrawler]

I can not that everyone enough for all the tricks and tips. I just got my rs10 about a week ago and i love it. This is my first rc crawler and i must say i love the sport. I used to run around in trail rigs and they are money pits. I only have 350 in mine with upgrades to install LOTS of tires and some tools. So far i cut the factory tires and they work better than stock but not as good as the boggers i got. I am getting new batteries in the mail soon and cant wait to run longer on a single charge. I got some longer crawler shocks but have not put them on yet because i need to move them to the axel first. I will get some pictures of it soon but right now the only change you can see is the tires and cut body. All the tips and tricks are helpfull to a newbie like me. I hope to do a great build thread soon but like i said right now my rs10 is mostly stock. Thanks so much for all the help.

And 1 quick question. My stock servos are working fine right now and i want to have a back up set just in case. I have a pair of Traxxas 2018's are they better than my rs10 stock ones? Will they work with my rig or would i need to also put in the Traxxas 2015 B.E.C. receiver? Or should i just get some new ones and sell the traxxas ones? So many questions but i will work at them one at a time so i dont frustrate any one...me included. Thanks in advance for the advice.

[jsowens]

Originally Posted by CantonAreaCrawler

And 1 quick question. My stock servos are working fine right now and i want to have a back up set just in case. I have a pair of Traxxas 2018's are they better than my rs10 stock ones? Will they work with my rig or would i need to also put in the Traxxas 2015 B.E.C. receiver? Or should i just get some new ones and sell the traxxas ones? So many questions but i will work at them one at a time so i dont frustrate any one...me included. Thanks in advance for the advice.

Those servos are definitely not an upgrade. They only have 42oz of torque and plastic gears so they're on the same caliber as the stock servos. Personally I'd suggest new ones...with at least 100oz of torque, if not more, and metal gears.

[CantonAreaCrawler]

Thanks so much for the info on the servos. It is nice to get some solid answers from informed people about my novice questions.

[hollwood20]

I'm new and how do you keep the tires from tearing off the leads to the motor, So befoe I spend the $ on a upgrade, I need to figure out the first problem. I really enjoy the rs10 rockslide, but I've been through 3 motors.(frustrating) I just start having a blast & I have to shut it down,

[Docwolf]

you must not have read much becuase this topic is covered several times.

[hollwood20]

just New, where do I find these posts I didn't read, & how do I get there to read them RS10 motor leads tearing off.
Thanks.

[G's ^]

Didn't like the tall body monster truck look. At first I cut new holes in the body to lower it more onto the stock side body posts. Still not low enough and I was tired of the side posts getting hung up on obstacles I decided to remove the side posts.
Since I did the wing removal 4 link setup I had the 2 holes in the electronics tray that held the original 3 link ball. I took 2 of the four side posts amd mounted them in the hole for stock 3 link. I used some spacers to get my desired height of posts.
I was able to slam the body , and I could go lower if needed. I trimmed a lot of the stock body so I have no rubbimg issues being so low . Also no more hang ups going through tight spots.


Here's how it sat before I tore it all down to redo suspension and links.


Free mod if you dont feel the grave digger look and tired of side posts dragging.

[dropstep]

Just got mine in the mail today (xt so its already 4 link), Going to try a few of these tricks tonight. thanks for the thread

Found some loose hardware and im missing a spring cup.

[G's ^]

After installing larger tires I was kicking spring cups off left and right.
So I got some large shrink wrap , cut 4 - 1/2" sections. Remove shock and slip the section of shrink tube over the cup and up a coil or 2 . The. Carefully heat up with heat source till wrap shrinks around cup and lower coil.
If ever need to remove just razor or knife it off. Cheap and easy solution.

I did all 4 , but I was mainly losing my fronts due to only having front steering , but if your still running rear steer I'd do all 4 for sure.

[bigjoe623]

To solve the tire breaking motor wires I used a plastic 35mm film canister. I drilled a hole through the side near the bottom of the can for the wires to come through, also drilled several random holes for cooling. Cut a few notches around top to help close it up tight on motor. Slip it up on motor and put zip tie around top and pull tight. Mine has been on there for over a year with no problems

[nolan533]

Noob question here.
I keep seeing people on here that have locked out the rear steering.
What's the deal with that is 4ws not a good thing?

[mrcpruitt]

its up to you. In comp. you can't use it. I locked mine when my servo broke so I locked it out.

[nolan533]

Thanks for the info mrcpruitt

I don't have to worry about comps because there is nothing within 2 hours of me to embarrass myself in.
I run around my yard looking for things to climb

[jsowens]

Originally Posted by nolan533

Noob question here.
I keep seeing people on here that have locked out the rear steering.
What's the deal with that is 4ws not a good thing?

The biggest reason I locked mine out was the rear wheels would steer when I didn't want them to if I hit some obstacles in certain ways...even if I was in front steer mode only. Another advantage of locking the rear steer is when you upgrade the crappy servos...you only have to sink money into one servo.

Don't get me wrong...4-wheel steer was kinda cool at first, but for me the novelty value of it wore off within the first few times I went out crawling.

[rafaelpolanco]

Blocking steering rear homemade like K.I.S.S.

Made with 2 pieces of aluminum







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[rafaelpolanco]

Originally Posted by sick86burban

also,on my XT's initial crawl,it seemed as if the tires weren't biting enough. it crawled good,but some thing i think it should have been able to do,it couldn't. what i did was cut each small lug off the tire. it made the tire more flexible and more bite areas. i re installed the tires,and what it wouldn't climb before,it could now. this is a free mod and helps pretty good if you don't have the spare cash for tires.

I test that in my RS10 and unbelievable REALY WORK'S It's better crawling and adding to all the rocks and terrain, and mudding it's fantastic :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: for you my friend. And thanks for the tips

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