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Thread: Official RS10 tips and tricks thread.

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Old 01-16-2010, 12:00 PM   #1
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Default Official RS10 tips and tricks thread.

Alright guys, post up any cheap mods, tricks, tips, or aftermarket parts you can come up with. If you post up any mods, make sure to include a step by step how-to, required parts and links to said parts if necessary, and pictures if possible. I'll start off with some of the common things in the rs10 revisited thread and will update with better pictures on my mods as I go along. Feel free to update this with any mods, parts, or tricks you find, but keep the chit/chat to a minimum to avoid a ton of pages that are hard to look through. If anyone is curious about a particular mod that isn't in this thread, feel free to send me a pm or ask someone and we'll do some research.

RICrawler's axle mounted battery plate:
Axle-mounted battery plate


Dig switch box: (courtesy of the enroute berg forum)

My Dig Switch Box!
dig requires a 3 channel radio with toggle switch or push button mod.
here's a link to a push button mod on a tq3 radio: (courtesy of major94)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqntnWcb4FA
and a link for modding a tq3 with a toggle and epa pots:
My Modded TQ3 Update - Added EPA pots

Axle mounted shock mod:
parts needed: 4x m3 hex head screws in 20mm length
-remove the screw/nut that holds the lower link to the axle housing.
-insert the 20mm m3 screw through the lower eyelet of the shock and thread the screw into the outside edge of the lower link mount.
-attach the lower link like normal and bolt it all together.
this mod might only work with an aftermarket or custom chassis, awaiting confirmation that it works with the stock chassis. With the shocks mounted like this...smaller tires such as losi rock claws do not rub at all. Taller tires such as rovers barely touch and rubbing doesn't seem to be an issue.
Click the image to open in full size.

Rear steering lock-out:
parts needed: long rod ends, long set screws or m3 bolt with the head cut off, longer screw to thread into the axle housing. (duratrax part number DTXC4161 also works as a steering lockout)
-remove the stock servo and servo mount
-assemble lockout by threading a long set screw or m3 bolt into one rod end, then screw the other rod end onto the opposite side. 2 inch eye to eye length needed.
-attach one side of the lockout to the steering knuckle.
-remove one of the screws holding the axle housing together and attach the other end of the lockout to the axle housing.
Click the image to open in full size.

Another rear steer lockout that I came up with:
Homemade rear steer lockout how-to


Upgrade motor recommendations:

-Hobbyzone 7134 390 size
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HBZ7134
-cobalt 13turn (if you can find them)
-holmes hobbies 454
http://holmeshobbies.com/product.php...&cat=17&page=1
-banebot 380 7.2v
http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M5-RS380-72
-banebot 390 12v
http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M5-RS390-12
(Note about the HH 454's thanks to swr2: The shaft size is 1/8" on the 454 so I drilled the stock pinions the 10t out with a 1/8" drill bit and a drill press to keep the hole straight and they fit perfect now)
To my knowledge nobody runs the following motors yet, so getting them will be trial and error:

-Atomic ST-18 High Torque
http://shop.tinyrc.com/catalog/Atomi...r-p-18404.html
-Raider micro monster
http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=51977
-GPM 30 turn motor
http://www.rgmotorsports.net/proddet...8SMT%29&cat=24

and if you have any issues removing the stock pinions here are 10t and 8t pinions that work:
-10t
http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/product_...roducts_id=197
-8t
http://www.redcatracing.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2054/.f

"Wing" removal:
parts needed: small 1x1 square of aluminum, delrin, or similar material about 2mm thick, rod ends.
-remove the upper links from the wing mount.
-remove the 3-link mount from the chassis.
-unbolt the wing from the axle housing (there are 4 screws).
-dremel the delrin or aluminum if necessary, drill 2 holes into the bottom part and 1 into the top part, bolt the new 4 link mount to the axle housing where the "wing" once was using 2 of the screws from the wing.
-attach rod ends to the upper links since they're removed from the 3 link and bolt everything up.

In depth how-to for wing removal: courtesy of redcatguy
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...=1#post2390892

High steer upgrade: (courtesy of BADASSPONY)
parts needed:
Steering link set
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWJJ9&P=7
CKRC Knuckles
http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/shop/ind...oducts_id=2379

Aluminum shock mount upgrade:

http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/product_...roducts_id=119

How-to mount shocks to the axles using the stock chassis: (courtesy of Cam_L)
I bought the Losi 4" shock kit, included are a bunch of spacers for different applications. I only used the step-down spacers originally intended for the upper shock mounts. I found that they didn't provide enough movement for the shock, so dug out 4 traxxas revo rod ends, and found they fit through the upper shock mount. I found some spacers, that fit over the rod end that would work to make up for the protrusion. dug out some old screws and washers and mounted them. (see pics)
The lower end, I drilled out the step-down spacers to accomodate the shock rods and installed them, small dia end pointed towards the shock. I then installed the redcat rod ends, the ones from the batwing (Cause you've already done a 4-link ) with about 3 threads showing on the shock rod. install springs and lower spring cap. remove the lower link and install the shock mount where your lower link was. if you have bent lower links, it seems to work better if you reverse them (see pics) for clearance of the motors. install the lower links to the inside of the axle mount, with a long enough screw to make it half way into the shock mount eye. install a screw on the other side as well. (DO NOT LOCTITE THESE, you'll never get them out if you have to!) Lastly, drill big enough holes to fit your upper mounts, using stock redcat screws and spacers, right on the tip of the chassis (see pics). You may have to move the x-members. have fun dialing them in! (NOTE: you can also get nylon spacers at lowes if you don't have metal spacers laying around. They come in various thicknesses)

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Delrin steering/suspension links:



Tools:
-drill with appropriate bit size (slightly smaller than the set screw you plan on using)
-tubing cutter (I use the following cutter)
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
-JeepinDoug's drill bushing (not necessary, but incredibly useful)
Link Drill Bushing

Materials:
-Delrin rod in your choice of diameter (5/16'' works well)
-m3 long set screws
http://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=7v3fwu
-your choice of rod ends

Click the image to open in full size.

Tutorial:
-Measure the link size taking into account whether you're planning a bent link or not, then mark it using a silver sharpie. Be sure to use the measure twice, cut once mentality to avoid wasting material.

-Clamp on the tubing cutter and tighten it up a little. Then chuck the end of the delrin rod into your drill. Hold the tubing cutter in one hand and start the drill with the other hand...using the drill to spin the delrin rod will drastically speed up the cutting process. After you notice the tubing cutter feeling loose, tighten it up and continue this process until the cut is finished. Repeat the process to get your additional links cut.

Click the image to open in full size.

-Pop JeepinDoug's drill bushing onto the end of the link and use the drill to drill your hole. Repeat this process until there is a hole in each end of each link you're making.

Click the image to open in full size.

-Thread a long set screw into each end of each link, then screw on the rod end of your choice (Traxxas Revo ends work really well).

Last edited by jsowens; 04-11-2011 at 05:14 PM. Reason: added to the post.
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Old 01-16-2010, 12:28 PM   #2
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Nice write up Scott!!
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Old 01-16-2010, 04:07 PM   #3
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Nice write up 1 question but what does the Parrnell wirering mod do?
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Old 01-16-2010, 05:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesox_68 View Post
Nice write up 1 question but what does the Parallel wirering mod do?

it helps with clod stall.
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Old 01-16-2010, 05:45 PM   #5
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ok one more question. Whats clod stall
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Old 01-16-2010, 06:03 PM   #6
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Great tips. I will do the woring mod this weekend.
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Old 01-16-2010, 08:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesox_68 View Post
ok one more question. Whats clod stall

lol it is when one of the motors stalls while the other keeps turning. the clod buster used to be the only MOA (motor on axle) so it got named after it.
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:13 PM   #8
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well i guess this is the best palce to ask this ? whats the gear ratio on these axle's with the stock pinion's? are they usein 32 pitch gears or 48 pitch? and finally roughly what degree steering angle?
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:23 PM   #9
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Not sure about the gear ratio or what degree steering angle is used, but the gears are 48 pitch. I can get the tooth number for the gears if you'd like?
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Old 01-17-2010, 09:44 AM   #10
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great post
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Old 01-18-2010, 02:31 PM   #11
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Hopefully this thread will get stickied to keep it from constantly moving down the list.
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Old 01-18-2010, 02:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsowens View Post
Hopefully this thread will get stickied to keep it from constantly moving down the list.
If it does keep getting moved down we can just keep it at the top
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Old 01-18-2010, 08:59 PM   #13
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great thread thx for the help us newbs need all we can get
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Old 01-19-2010, 07:07 AM   #14
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You can also run a PunkRC dig rather the building a switch setup and box. Heres a link.

http://www.punkrc.com/index.php?main...products_id=28
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:22 PM   #15
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Its stickied now. Some great info here.
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Old 01-26-2010, 09:27 AM   #16
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you can mount this to rs10 ?

http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/product_...roducts_id=611

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Old 01-26-2010, 10:28 AM   #17
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You could but I think it would make the motor too long and it would hit the links.
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Old 01-26-2010, 10:44 AM   #18
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well maybe someone should buy one and test it out ;) i liked the sound of lower gears on my rs10
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Old 01-26-2010, 10:50 AM   #19
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I think it would put your motor pretty close to the lower links. It might work tho. The extra torque would be nice. I wonder why the website doesn't give the dimensions?
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Old 01-26-2010, 11:05 AM   #20
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It's a good thought...but I don't think that would work for most motors...especially the ones I have. My motors only have about 6mm of clearance from the shocks. Judging from the last pic of the gear reduction unit mounted to a motor...it looks to be about half the size of a 380 motor. Would be cool if one would fit, though.
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