Rear axle drag

[P.A.Myers]

My RS10 has something grabbing in the rear axle. It goes in both directions.
It will squeak, drag then break loose. unlike the front axle the rear axle is
unmodified. There is no noise when run on the stand, it still drags tho.
Could this be common to the RS10?

[Jeepiac]

Could be a bearing. Might want to take it apart and check it over.

[P.A.Myers]

Will do. It sounds more like a bearing, no busted gear noise.

[chopfather]

Try removing the motor and see if it still drags. I remember reading that the motors have some plastic inside that can break off and the motor will still turn but will make noise or bind slightly. If the drag is still there with the motor removed then you'll have to tear into the axle .

[P.A.Myers]

Well, I removed the rear motor. When spun by hand it feels like a series of detents. It spins free by hand in both directions.
Front and rear react to throttle simultaneously both directions. The bull gear does seem to drag a bit in one spot then free up.
Soooo in we go. I do have 2 sets of steel gears. Now is a good time to swap these out.

[Does anyone offer a steel axle [spur] gear? all I find are plastic?] Hello! a steel spur is part of the steel set, duh....

[cabron]

man with a plan haha

I too have 2 sets of steel gears waiting for when I might need them

keep us posted and good luck

[P.A.Myers]

Got it all apart, no sign of problems. I'll add new bearings, steel gears, we'll see.
If I still have problems I have a KSG that will fix anything local.

[chopfather]

I put steel gears in mine right away because I bought a basket case RS10 without motors and went straight for the 540 mod. They have held up just fine to 540 power but I can't say the same for dogbones.
You may want to up grade the center pin for the locker with a cut allen key or a drill bit while you have it apart.

[P.A.Myers]

Absolutely no luck in finding a pair of aluminum Spur Gear Pin Plates. The plastic stock unit and screws are losers. I know such a thing exists, but where?
Old posts direct you to ZNO-RC that is apparently gone. I am mostly concerned the cheesy screws falling out, all were loose. If I have to use the plastic
plate I will drill the screw bosses out and go with screws from the back side into the gear holes that I have threaded.
Aluminum plate would be much better. I have a picture but can't find a retailer. I guess there is always the differential kit.

[chopfather]

I still run the stock plastic plates in mine with integy 55 turn 540's and they hold up just fine with the use of some threadlock to keep the screw from backing out. The only time I had a problem was on my son's that broke a stock pin and chewed up the plastic. We replaced the pin and plastic plate and no problems since then and he is not light on the throttle.

[P.A.Myers]

Sounds like a plan. I made some pins from finishing nails. They may be too soft. We'll see.


5/05: The steel gear train is very smooth w/o the motor or dogbones. When I put in the motor it all goes to hell.
I ran it on the stand, with both motors. Front motor is smooth and quiet, the rear motor is noisy and vibrates.
E600R on the way. I just dont need 540s.

05/05: Ran the rs10 this afternoon. Somewhere along the way, it got fixed. I am still going to replace the motor.