A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler

[dirtman71]

welcome to the world of RC #9

looks like you have the bug. the First thing I did to my E10 was go brushless. only because I I had a brushless system for it and the stock esc stoped working about 5 feet into the second battery. Redcat sent me a new esc BTW. yes the stock hight was just to top heavy so I put on 100mm shocks that I had. I cut the tires and stared the foams and added weight...tires suck

I had been on the fourms her long enough I could get to the classifieds. I found a full set of Hot Bodies Rover white dot 2.2 tires for $20 shipped. these tires are great. I found a group of guys to crawl with and cut up an old 10th scale body to clear the tires and went out to cral with the big boys...they guys I went out with were amazed at how well that E10 did. It went everywhere they did.

Use the classifieds. you can find good deals on most anything. you might have to be patient...or lucky. look for some stock SCX10 shocks to lower the CG and there are a ton of tires there.

[Smokin' Joe]

You can also just shorten the E10 shocks. I haven't had any issues with the shocks on two E10s. They seem to work fine and I haven't had issues with oil leakage, so I didn't have too much incentive to replace them. I shortened the shocks on one E10 by putting a spacer under the piston inside the shock body. The other I switched to a semi droop setup with shorter external springs and an internal spring under the piston.

[Disco Stu III]

Originally Posted by Smokin' Joe

With the large pumpkin on the E10, I think it benefits quite a bit from a large diameter tire.

I have Pitbull Rockbeast IIs (Komp Kompound) on mine. They are 5.75" in diameter. They have a nice soft, sticky compound does pretty well on rocks and for general use. The downside is they don't come with foams so you need to factor that into your cost.

I put Proline Super Swamper XLs on my son's rig recently. They are 5.8" tall. One nice thing about these is they come with foams. They also fit ok on the stock wheels if you want to reuse the wheels. The tire compound doesn't seem as soft/sticky as the compound on the pitbulls, but they seem to perform pretty well from what I've observed in limited use. Then there is gearing to consider when changing to something that large. Your esc heats up really quick in amongst large boulders where there's no real movement versus a lot of work, current pull trying to push your way over said obstacles. Perfect on trails though. I have a 35t fitted at the mo, so maybe 55t would suit more for crawling. Also, crawler innovations do cater to the needs of tyres like the j's. With hard inner, soft outer sand spacers for packing if need be. I have not used them, but the hardcore peanuts love them. Happy hunting

Another option that is a little cheaper is the Duratrax Deep Woods 2.2. It is even taller than the above tires (5.9"), but a little bit narrower. I'm not sure how well they would fit on the stock rims (which are very wide). They do come with foams. They also have a wheel/tire combo option, but the wheels they come with require a thin walled 7mm socket to install them. I haven't personally used them, so I can't comment on the performance.

Jconcepts Scorpios are even larger (6"), but I don't know how they are as a crawling tire.

I love our Scorpios, but had to restrict suspension travel, as they are sooo large, they hit the body. They do perform exceptionally well. The smaller tread pattern has siping that allows the tread to peal open and cling to stuff like rocks to an unbelievable level. Finding a suitable foam could be the challenge. The stocks have their merits, but don't allow the o.d to conform to terrain. I guess they need to be a bit stiff due to its diameter or height. You'd have no control over sidehill terrain if they were soft. I'd like to see if all the hype about the tsk boggers are true. Lotta people rate them. Hope they're not just saying that so they don't look like asshats for buying ordinary tires at a premium price, sadly people do that.

[number9]

So I want to get some new tires, leaning toward the Pro-Line Hyrax..........which has just opened up a whole can of worms......

I'd eventually like to get a Pro-Line Rubicon or F250 body for a more scale look, so trying to decide to stay 2.2 or go 1.9. Either way, I'm only interested in stock plastic (read cheap) wheels from an RS10 or SCX10 or the like.

Staying 2.2
- the 2.2 Hyrax are 5.75" tall, a BIG tire - I think it *may* be okay with the above bodies, but may be too monster truck, I don't know.
-I am not sure if the 2.25" wide (what I've read) E10 wheel will be too wide for the 2.2 Hyrax - swell it out too much?
-the RS10 stock wheel *looks* to be narrower than the E10 wheel, but I've not been able to find any specs anywhere to confirm that, anyone know?

Going 1.9
- the 1.9 Hyrax are 4.75" tall, so would lose about 1/8" ground clearance under the axle, which may not be too bad?
- I am not sure if stock 1.9 SCX10 wheels would fit on the E10 axles - ie. clear the knuckle yokes?

[Smokin' Joe]

If scale looks are what you want, the 1.9s will look a lot more scale that the 2.2s with those bodies.

[number9]

Thanks man. I guess the 1.9's being 4.75" tall would look closer to what it does now (height wise) than the 5.75"s would. Placed an order for the 1.9 Hyrax and 1.9 Axial 8 Hole beadlocks. Was tempted to go with the Hyrax knockoffs but couldn't find much reviews on how they performed (compound / sticky wise) vs the originals.

[JonW]

Just finished the thread from start to finish.
I have the Maverick version of this chassis and the information in this thread has enabled me to make a list of upgrades for this truck.
Got a BrazinScale hi/lol chassis on the way, shaved the knuckles for more steering, shaved the protrusions off the axles, got Axial lockers on the way, Axial spur gear soon as well as MIP or Pro-line shafts for the driveline.
Just wanted to say a massive thank you to everyone who contributed to the thread, I felt like I struck gold when I read it. Great work everyone, very much appreciated.

[number9]

Got the 1.9 Hyrax and Axial 8 Hole wheels. Really like them a lot. The Hyrax wasn't that much shorter than the stock tires, but I can tell a difference with the pumpkin dragging places it didn't used to. I can certainly see how the E10 would benefit more from a taller than 5" tire. If I was making a pure crawler or buggy out of it, I would for sure recommend a taller 2.2 over a 1.9.





Added some window stickers a couple weeks ago too

[number9]

For anyone following this thread, below is a link to skid plate discussions with DIY skids and mounting an SCX10 skid to the E10.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redca...te-mods-2.html

[Mocoloco]

Hey guys, first post, first crawler, coming over from the plane and drone world. I've managed to get through this thread and was pricing out lockouts, knuckles, lockers, etc when I ran across this guy on aliexpress:

GWOLVES high Quality CNC all Alloy 1:10 Rc Crawler Front And Rear Axle For AXIAL SCX10 90022 90028 90021 RC4WD rc parts
http://s.aliexpress.com/euIveAja

My Google-fu has not been strong enough to find if anyone has had any success with it. Do you guys see any potential problems with installing these guys on a stock E10? I'm unfamiliar with the drive shaft linkage and also concerned about the stock wheels fitting on those knuckles. Thoughts? I'm willing to be the test bed if it doesn't look like a nightmare.

BTW this thread was an awesome read through and thank you all for the advice!

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[honchojoe]

Originally Posted by Mocoloco

Hey guys, first post, first crawler, coming over from the plane and drone world. I've managed to get through this thread and was pricing out lockouts, knuckles, lockers, etc when I ran across this guy on aliexpress:

GWOLVES high Quality CNC all Alloy 1:10 Rc Crawler Front And Rear Axle For AXIAL SCX10 90022 90028 90021 RC4WD rc parts
http://s.aliexpress.com/euIveAja

My Google-fu has not been strong enough to find if anyone has had any success with it. Do you guys see any potential problems with installing these guys on a stock E10? I'm unfamiliar with the drive shaft linkage and also concerned about the stock wheels fitting on those knuckles. Thoughts? I'm willing to be the test bed if it doesn't look like a nightmare.

BTW this thread was an awesome read through and thank you all for the advice!

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Those will work fine. Worst case scenario is you have to run slightly thicker hexes to clear the knuckle. But with 2.2" wheels I doubt it will be an issue.

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[the_law_man01]

I agree. The axle housings are likely just fine. I worry about the lockers and axle shafts. Hopefully, they're replaceable with Axial parts (or aftermarket equivalent).

Now that I've started making chassis to fit whatever body I'm building, I'll likely buy axle kits similar to this as well as other necessary parts rather than buying trucks or kits.

There's also an ARB able kit similar to this if you can find it.

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[Mocoloco]

Thanks, I've got Axial lockers in mine right now, so those would make the switch.

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[Interceptor]

Quick question for my friends. I’ve been out for. While and had a ax10 back when they first came out, and I followe a upgrade build article on this site that was simple mods like tube extending, swap springs, and using a boomerang 4 link in the rear. Providing I can find the article would these same mods wrong on te Everest since it’s pretty much the same thing?

[the_law_man01]

Originally Posted by Interceptor

Quick question for my friends. I’ve been out for. While and had a ax10 back when they first came out, and I followe a upgrade build article on this site that was simple mods like tube extending, swap springs, and using a boomerang 4 link in the rear. Providing I can find the article would these same mods wrong on te Everest since it’s pretty much the same thing?

I don't see why not. Spring and/or shock swap is pretty common. Custom links are common. Flipping the Trans is a must as well. And many many more.

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[number9]

Wanted to add some info.....I picked up a couple FI Heavy Spools from Locked Up RC to install in our E10 axles, mostly for the added weight (1.75oz) down low. They come with M2x5 cap head screws to bolt the ring gear on with. There’s not enough clearance between the ring gear and axle housing to run the cap head screws. I ordered a pack of M2x8 flat head countersunk screws off amazon for about $7 that work perfect when trimmed to 5mm length.

[GordoSmasho]

Just picked up an E10. Thanks for all the tips guys. This thread is emptying my wallet by the minute.

[number9]

I think the E10 benefits from a lower stance, depending on where / how you crawl. A set of Lift / Lower kit for SCX10 worked really good on mine. Just had to add bump stops on the shock shaft to keep the tires out of the body on compression. 1/4” dirtbike fuel line cut to length (mine was about 8-10mm) worked great. You could use vacuum hose from any parts store as well. Just cut it to the length you need and then cut a slit down the length and you can just slide the spring up and slip the hose over the shock shaft.

[the_law_man01]

Originally Posted by number9

I think the E10 benefits from a lower stance, depending on where / how you crawl. A set of Lift / Lower kit for SCX10 worked really good on mine. Just had to add bump stops on the shock shaft to keep the tires out of the body on compression. 1/4” dirtbike fuel line cut to length (mine was about 8-10mm) worked great. You could use vacuum hose from any parts store as well. Just cut it to the length you need and then cut a slit down the length and you can just slide the spring up and slip the hose over the shock shaft.

You could also find some springs that will fit inside the shock body and cut then to the length you need to keep the body out of the wheels. Get them stiff enough to keep the body out if the wheels but it will also give a little if you get a bit rambunctious and drive off a decent drop. When you do this, also put pen springs (or other spring at desired weight) on the shock rod UNDER the baffle. It will help keep the truck leveled and in droop mode.
Having springs both over and under the baffle will help the shocks start heading in the right direction to level the truck.

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[the_law_man01]

You can also then paint your shock bodies without worrying about the springs messing up the paint.

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