A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler

[honchojoe]

I was going to suggest go to your local dollar store and buy one of those white nylon bread/cutting boards snd cut it up.

[KMS]

Anybody do a servo winch mount on there stock Everest Chassis yet ,I need to add one to my grandkids rigs ,,Thank you Robert

After looking at some pics I might mount winch to bottom of battery tray....

[LamChop]

Originally Posted by KMS

Anybody do a servo winch mount on there stock Everest Chassis yet ,I need to add one to my grandkids rigs ,,Thank you Robert

After looking at some pics I might mount winch to bottom of battery tray....

Plastic generally isn't ideal for a winch mount, you could make a metal battery tray and mount it on the bottom side of that

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[KMS]

Pretty good heads up. I think I will machine a angle alum plate , To hold the winch and to bolt to the battery plate ,,That should hold it ,,,

[Gunnarspappy]

New to crawling, not r/c. I picked up the Everest 10 for a couple reasons. I like the price is one major reason. It's stock right now but very capable right of the shelf. I already purchased a pair of HB crawler tires, a spare battery and a banana to Tamiya adapter. My plans are all over the place, probably because I am geeked out over a new facet to a hobby. I plan to paint a few bodies for it...build a couple sets of wheel/tire combos...start swapping gears and motors and whatnot. After a few bodies are painted and wheels swapped I'll post a few pics. Cheers.

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[MordyNYC]

Originally Posted by Gunnarspappy

New to crawling, not r/c. I picked up the Everest 10 for a couple reasons. I like the price is one major reason. It's stock right now but very capable right of the shelf. I already purchased a pair of HB crawler tires, a spare battery and a banana to Tamiya adapter. My plans are all over the place, probably because I am geeked out over a new facet to a hobby. I plan to paint a few bodies for it...build a couple sets of wheel/tire combos...start swapping gears and motors and whatnot. After a few bodies are painted and wheels swapped I'll post a few pics. Cheers.

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Dont burn too much $.
Motoring is limited because of the tight space with the stock mount/chassis. At 17T Pinion it's very tight. 550 motor will get blocked by a link nut, so 540 length is max on stock chassis.

Crawler bodies are ripoffs, for 3 crawler bodies you can buy this kit new again lol
Also this has a long wheel axle FYI.

I'd upgrade the shafts to metal/alloy, steel spur, sensored motor/esc, some of those dual spring clone aluminum shocks (110mm is max), there's a screw kit online for steel hex screws honestly i found it to be like movie popcorn...
Get a nice hardened 48P (imperial) pinion, aluminum wheel nuts, you can get open diff metal spiders or a completely aluminum locker gear too online from ebay/ali.
There's also aluminum tranny etc but IMO those arent weak points, they just look nice.
3S battery will fit fine too, you can get zippy compact 3s which is same size and lighter than a 5AH NIMH set.
etc etc

[cabron]

the whole purpose of a hobby is to have fun (and to spend money)
we can do what others do or suggest, or we can try to think beyond the norm
and try weird esoteric things.

enjoy

[MordyNYC]

Originally Posted by cabron

the whole purpose of a hobby is to have fun (and to spend money)
we can do what others do or suggest, or we can try to think beyond the norm
and try weird esoteric things.

enjoy

Oh ok I didn't know about the money part.
Let me buy a plastic $300 kit on sale from axial and then upgrade every single part to metal and buy some Walmart New Bright bodies for $100 for it.

THanks.

[cabron]

that was a joke mordy.

[MordyNYC]

Mine was satirical.

[Gunnarspappy]

Originally Posted by MordyNYC

Dont burn too much $.
Motoring is limited because of the tight space with the stock mount/chassis. At 17T Pinion it's very tight. 550 motor will get blocked by a link nut, so 540 length is max on stock chassis.

Crawler bodies are ripoffs, for 3 crawler bodies you can buy this kit new again lol
Also this has a long wheel axle FYI.

I'd upgrade the shafts to metal/alloy, steel spur, sensored motor/esc, some of those dual spring clone aluminum shocks (110mm is max), there's a screw kit online for steel hex screws honestly i found it to be like movie popcorn...
Get a nice hardened 48P (imperial) pinion, aluminum wheel nuts, you can get open diff metal spiders or a completely aluminum locker gear too online from ebay/ali.
There's also aluminum tranny etc but IMO those arent weak points, they just look nice.
3S battery will fit fine too, you can get zippy compact 3s which is same size and lighter than a 5AH NIMH set.
etc etc

Great advice. Very true about the lack of clearance. As for spending the $$ on bodies etc...heck...I enjoy the painting, masking, and payoff element that isn't there in a RTR. Sure I can spend more than it's worth on just parts, accessories and whatnot ...it's why I love it and the wife hates it. Thanks for replying!

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[cabron]

here is an interesting read.
this guy is making his own body out of sheet metal, working doors, hood, hatchback, etc.

Slow 1/10th scale aluminum ZJ body build.

[MordyNYC]

Very neat.
I've been thinking of a dual shaft outrunner with 5mm shafts.
Something like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZESmrFhzeg



I learned you can pop in a longer shaft into most Outrunner motors to get them like above.

These seems sturdy and the mounting holes look similar
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o01_s00
Anyone know if the scx10 motor mount matches?

[JimmyShively]

I bought an Everest 10 and it's worked great. The only bad part is I have so much fun with it that I loose track of time and end up falling behind schedule. I've since bought the kid an Everest 16 and the old lady got the Ground Pounder. The Ground Pounder burnt up a motor but I think that was our fault of trying to do to technical of a climb. Lots of tire spin and no forward movement equals to air to cool it off fast enough. I replaced the stock motor with a 27T and no issues with the new motor yet. I'm going to oil fill the diffs in order to try and stop the loss of power thru the tires that have no traction.
I would love to post some pics but I'm not sure how to do that. Can anyone walk me thru uploading photos?

[MordyNYC]

Get a pinterest account. Upload a pic, get the url ending with jpg, click on advanced here, then the pic icon top right.

[Jeeperz1982]

Spend $135 on the kit, another $150-$200 on upgrades, be better and stronger than a stock Axial kit at the same price. Why would anyone argue with that? Its what I did and i'm very happy.

[UberJeep]

Originally Posted by Jeepiac

I've thrashed on mine pretty hard, but haven't intentionally tried to destroy it. At this point mine is pretty much stock except for the Axial lockers, 37T motor and 4 wheel steering. I've put around 8 hours on it and nothing broken yet. Read through this entire thread and you'll find out everything you need to know. Lots of good info on here!

Is the stock remote ready for 4ws? Thanks.

[dirtman71]

Originally Posted by UberJeep

Is the stock remote ready for 4ws? Thanks.

the stock remote is only a 2 channel so no

you might be able to run a Y and get full time 4ws. Flip the rear servo so it turns opposite the front. Works in theory, never tried it. but you cant crab walk or just have front or rear steer.

[cabron]

you can find the lansu 4 channel radios on ebay.
those are what come with the rs10. other options are a stick radio like spectrum dx6 or dx7
that you can find used for 100 - 150 or go for the futabas and spectrum 4 channel radios for
a bit more.

[dirtman71]

Originally Posted by MordyNYC

Very neat.
I've been thinking of a dual shaft outrunner with 5mm shafts.
Something like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZESmrFhzeg



I learned you can pop in a longer shaft into most Outrunner motors to get them like above.

These seems sturdy and the mounting holes look similar
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o01_s00
Anyone know if the scx10 motor mount matches?

I flew planes for years....still do from time to time. Most or all outrunners you can flip the shaft to work either way

I have seen one outrunner and it did good....dont know his setup but will find out. The vids I have seen like the one you posted have a lot of motor/esc frequency noise at startup. its loud on the vid and even louder in person. Its not sensored so they could have cogging issues. Its hard to find the right brushless esc that can handle crawling at slow speeds...and give you a smooth fwd/rev and good drag brake. You can if you spend $150 or so.

I run a $70 brushless hobbies esc but it took some work finding and installing the speed pasion firmware to get it to work good for crawling.

I dont think that scorpion motor is the best choice....to overpriced.
This kv might be a bit low but it would be a beast
NTM Prop Drive Series 42-48 650KV / 1295W

this is a bit smaller dia. but still has some grunt and has 25mm mounting holes
NTM Prop Drive 35-48 Series 900KV / 815W

Just what I would start with....They look good on paper