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Old 08-24-2007, 02:48 PM   #81
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No monumental advice, but dollar and liquidation stores are great for cheap small toys.
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Old 10-10-2007, 12:42 AM   #82
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use RC$WD txt link mount bracket for shackles, they are longer than diaz shackles so consider them "extended length"

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Old 11-03-2007, 02:52 PM   #83
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Something that I think would work pretty well for a winch spool is the spool inside of a roll of film. Just take the film off of it and it's almost ready to go. Could probably mount it up on a bumper and use a pulley going to a servo so that it acts more like an actual winch. Just an idea.
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Old 11-13-2007, 06:25 PM   #84
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Winch fairlead.. I took a NEW stock clodbuster chrome front bumper ( that already has a molded fairlead on it), cut it out leaving a little material on both ends, drill 2 holes outside the actual fairlead, and bolt it onto whatever project you desire.
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Old 02-10-2008, 06:52 PM   #85
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Here's a great way to make scale mud flaps...

Take an old bike tire and cut a strip as wide as you want it to be, then cut the loop apart. I used a knife razor blade and set it where i wanted to be cut. I then used a heavy tool to tap the top and it cut a strait clean line where i wanted it. This is the shape i wanted mine....

Seeing as the rubber has a tenancy to curl i cut some pieces of metal to bolt to the bottom for weight...

Used a wire brush to clean up to bare metal and painted...

I just glued mine to the back side of my bumper....

And here's the finished product. I used a leather punch to get nice round hole's, and used 4-40 hardware to mount.

Looks great, and is actually flexible unlike any others i've ever seen built. Easy, cheap and looks/acts just like 1:1
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Old 02-17-2008, 06:50 AM   #86
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Offset hpi stock car wheels...

you will need

Hpi stock car wheel

Stock tlt wheels ( or an extra set of hpi wheels )


Something to cut them with ( I prefer a jewlers saw )

CA or epoxy

And a pair of small side cutters

Sand paper and a flat surface

First you cut your hpi wheel inside the bead as shown, do the backside first and then the cut closest to the wheel face. The one closest to the face will still hang on from the little splines, a pair of side cutters will set them free (see bottom of picture)

also cut the bead off the back side of your tlt wheel, you have some room to play here, you can cut it right at the bead or a little farther in, depending on how much offset you want. (top right of picture)

discard the center of the HPI wheel, and the front of the tlt..

Take all your wheel peices and place them on a flat surface, and sand at the parts you will glue, to make sure they are flat

then assemble in order shown

when done you will have a wheel like this

on this truggy I cut the tlt wheel closer to the bead, for less offset, and a narrower wheel

on the blazer i used an extra set of hpi wheels to use the inside bead to create an all black wheel

Last edited by XSRCdesign; 03-28-2008 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 02-17-2008, 01:11 PM   #87
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dont have any pics, but i can post ideas, really neat stuff on here, scaling is really not new to me as a kid we were doing things like this to models 30yrs. ago, but you can take plastic round coat hangers &cut &heat them on an electric stove or your own heat source to make a rollbar, or rollcage, most of then are molded in white, or black, they can easily be drilled &screwwed together w/small screws, also old plastic quart oil juggs, or gallon antifreeze juggs, can be cut trimmed to make whatever you desire ,bedcovers, interior scale ,platform. etc. since they come in all colors black, red, yellow, blue, i could sit &dream up stuff all day, isnt it fun. hope this gives someone some ideas. thanks.
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Old 02-17-2008, 11:48 PM   #88
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Almost hate to give this one away, kind of my little secret

The lenses from a 2 cell AA sized maglite are make the perfect light buckets/lenses. These fit my proline fj40 (and tamiya mini cooper if anyone is in to that) bodies exactly. seems to be the perfect 1/10th scale equivlent to a 7" round headlight. Also great for light bars, etc. Oh yea, you usually have to drill out the hole to fit 5mm LEDs.

You can get them at www.flashlightking.com The part #:108-038. They are a buck a piece.

They also sell smaller ones for the 2 cell AAA flashlights but i have not ordered any yet so i am not sure on the exact size of those. They also seem to be a little shallower, probably better for light bars and roof racks.

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Old 02-25-2008, 08:22 PM   #89
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the grease splash shields that are sold to cover frying pans have a mesh on them that closely match a 1/10 scale mesh for grills and other things. I used one to put a mesh grill in a street Jugg that I built a number of years ago.
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:04 AM   #90
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Default Roll Bar/Cage Padding

I was looking around for some padding for my rig. I found some Nerf Sonic Micro Darts at WalMart. Cut the tip off. And make a little cut all the way across the dart to fit over your bars. Then I just put electrical tape around the roll bar to hold it in place.

Padding cost is about 5 bucks for ten sticks. I needed 2.5 bags to do mine.
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:12 AM   #91
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Hey guys came across this site the other day full of tips and tricks that we can use. It's based off of car modeling but some good stuff can be crossed over to trucks, check it out . . . .
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Old 04-25-2008, 12:15 PM   #92
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Scale Winch Cable

Hobby Lobby Jewlers line.. its only 20lb test but it looks perfect!
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Old 07-26-2008, 03:01 PM   #93
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Man talk about the mcguyver of the rc scale world! Any thing from nothing wow.

As far as nice custom scale bed toppers, a nice look is to take some cardboard and some egg crate foam type stuff and leather or vinal plaeather what ever. Is what you will do is take and cut the card board to the desiered size and shape then do the same with the foam stuff, make sure it isnt too thick and is of the same size and shape as the cardboard, then take that and glue it to the cardboard after you have done that take and cafully (make sure you dont bend the card board) and wrap the leather around that. ither garilla gluing it or stapleing it to the bare side of the cardbord and you have a leather or vinal or what ever you wish soft bed cover. NOTE: Balsa wood works great too!

:-( will have to get a picture a little later Photobucket is being retarded right now.

Stupi photobucket

Last edited by bent; 07-26-2008 at 03:15 PM. Reason: Added picture
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:40 PM   #94
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Default A/N Fittings and scale braiding

After searching for over a month another 6 hrs

Finally found multi scale A/N fittings and braiding from .20mm to 2.5 mm

Lots of motor , brake, fuel line parts

There is a shop in USA who actually makes this stuff but I could not find the larger size stuff on his site http://www.detailmaster.com/
Attached Images

Last edited by toy4crawlin; 08-05-2008 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 08-08-2008, 12:00 PM   #95
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these tips are great. Here are a few of mine. You can use black Rustoleum textured spray paint as a scale bed liner like line-x:

I also made some fairly nice guages by cutting some very thin slices off of an aluminum tube. I then CA glued them to some white scrap sticker material (from the edge of a Summit Racing sticker). I then was able to peal the sticker backing off, attach the ring and sticker to my dash. I then drew on a needle, and some marks for a tach and speedo see below:

also note the steering wheel made out of a servo horn, thanks rednekcrwlr!
I also use lots of cereal boxes to mock up body parts/pannels that then can be then cut out of styrene

Last edited by lowslowTJ; 08-08-2008 at 12:02 PM. Reason: add props!
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:15 PM   #96
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Here's an idea for a cheap exhaust. Use an empty rifle shell casing (silver is better). I'm going to use a 30-06 casing on my Jeep for a diesel engine look. the black on the inside makes it look a lot like the real thing.
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Old 12-22-2008, 09:27 AM   #97
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mount a mini servo behind your scaler dash to operate your NB or dyi steering wheel. with a few gears and a makeshift mount setup, you can get your wheel to turn nearly 1.5 times just like scale.

i currently have the servo mounted driectly to the steering wheel, but only get around 1/4 travel of the wheel. i ll be makeing a few changes to run a 4 or 5:1 gear assembly in rsv, so the steering wheel will move 5 times mroe than it currently does mounted directly to the servo.

i dont currently have any pics or a vid, but will get some and add to my post.

Originally Posted by BrockGrimes View Post
Looks like a good Shift boot for that scale look:

Haven't checked it out yet but figured I'd share.
those HPI boots (driveshaft boots) arnt that good as driveshaft boots. they rip rather quickly on a baja. they WOULD make nice shifting boot if they were smaller the large end is about 7/8ths of an in opening, and the small end is around 5.5mm, so just smaller than a #2 pensil. nice looking, but to large though you could cut it down by splitting in half, and reglueing (shoogooing) it together in a smaller diameter.

Last edited by Timmahh; 12-22-2008 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 01-18-2009, 10:16 PM   #98
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plastruct makes diamond plate in 1/16. ask your lhs
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Old 02-28-2009, 09:33 PM   #99
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I made some non-revolving revolver shackles to get some extra flex out of my suspension. I got all the parts at Lowes. I used #41 Roller Chain Links and #35 masterlinks. About $10 total for enough to do 4 leafs. Pretty self explainitory, you just put the Masterlink through the hole on the narrowed side of the Roller Link and then at the frame I used a 5/32 rubber spacer also from lowes on each side of the frame rail to center it. I mounted the Roller to the frame and the masterlink to the leafs. I used 1 of the 5/32 rubber spacers at the leaf to keep it centered. Pics are at http://s626.photobucket.com/albums/tt346/Baja_XJ/RC/
I still have about a half inch of travel in each shock that isnt being used because I just started the truck and the way I have my shocks mounted the bind before full travel either direction.
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Old 03-10-2009, 10:49 PM   #100
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Default winch wire

at Walmart by the tool section they have picture hanging wire part#2832 by symmetry. looks real scale, holds 25lbs and a 25 foot roll is about $1.75
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