Team3sixRC Scale Seats info

[team3six]

Since nothing is sacred among this world we call scale.
Some other vendors feel its not only OK to steal someone elses design and sell it for an absolutely ridiculous price that far outreaches what I sold my seats for. But do it without any scruples.

I'm gonna do everyone a solid.

After I recover from dental surgery, I am going to kindly post up my templates on the seats I made along with a list of all the supplies you'll need and a how to make and assemble them.
These are super easy to do and I can not see anyone having an issue making them at all.

If I am not going to make my seats, I'm definitely not gonna tolerate someone else making money off my designs.

Keep subscriber to this thread.

Be Prepared, because I'm gonna offer all kinds of things to dress up your scale crawler for FREE!

[DISTURBIN' tha PEACE]

Shaka Brah! \m/

[SAL45]

I hope you are still planning on posting up the info!

[Highmark]

Originally Posted by SAL45

I hope you are still planning on posting up the info!

I wouldn't hold my breath.

[WSD]

Be Prepared, because I'm gonna offer all kinds of things to dress up your scale crawler for FREE!

[/QUOTE]


I see nothing more posted did you forget about the scale world....

[Honchoforever1]

Originally Posted by WSD

Be Prepared, because I'm gonna offer all kinds of things to dress up your scale crawler for FREE!

I see nothing more posted did you forget about the scale world....[/QUOTE]

I think he did...

[team3six]

Thanks for the vote of confidence Highmark you douche.
Be sure you say something sweet to me personally next time we meet.

Yeah, I did forget because my world isn't wrapped around RC. Sorry, Im working on my real truck.

But here is the how too for the seats and Ill get the seatbelts next week.
to make a full set of seats with seatbelts your looking at maybe $20.00 in custom light weight seats. and actually it will be less than that if you make more than 1 set because youll have material left over for ore.

Basically to make these seats is fairly simple.
You will need the following to make the seats.

1. a fine tipped permanent sharpie marker
2. the attached template
3. an exacto knife w/ #11 blades
4. .016 aluminum metal
K & S Engineering .016" Aluminum Sheet | Shop Hobby Lobby
5. Adhesive backed foam sheet of your color choice.
Funky Foam 8 1/2" x 5 1/2" Bright Sticky Back EVA Foam Sheet Pack - 2mm | Shop Hobby Lobby
6. Lexan curved scissors
7. flat scissors
8. Cutting board
9. small hammer
10. flat head screw driver with a 1/4 inch head
11. a small piece of pine wood scrap

First off, take your template and print it on card stock paper
Your seats should measure about 5.05 inches high. the rest will equal out in print. This should accommodate a 7" figure correctly for most 1/10th scale trucks.

If you plan to do this repeatedly so you don't keep messing up your templates. I would recommend you transfer the image to a thin piece of Styrene and cut it out so you can continue to use the template.

Anyways, once you have a template you will have to carefully cut out the loop positions in the seat back and floor to mount the seatbelts.
Just take your exacto knife with a new blade and cut then poke out the holes.

Now you have your template cut out and ready to transfer onto the metal sheet.
Generally you should be able to get 2 seats per sheet on the K&S stock.

Lay your template on the sheet and remember to use the same side for both seats as well as your foam when you do this.

I generally mark an X on the side I want up all the time.

Take your Fine tipped marker and outline your template while holding it firmly in place. Be sure not to forget to mark your loop foles as well. That is very important.

Now that both templates are laid out. I generally separate the two halves as this makes it easier to cut out each seat.

with your flat scissors cut the straight pieces on the lines and cut off the excess metal around the seat. (be careful not to cut too close, but close enough to negotiate around the template.)

Now take your Lexan scissors and cut with the curved edge out along the lines of the metal. I start on the right side and follow the first curve stopping my blade on the fold.
Then I cut down top from the first bustle into that same curve. and the rest should be fairly simple.

Practise a few times to find what best works for you.

Now both seats should be cut out and youll have to get your loop holes stamped out.

Lay your seat on the scrap piece of pine and rest the tip on each line snapping a blow to the screwdriver but enough to pass through the metal. You should be left with a bit of flange on the other side.

Now take your screw driver and place the tip back into each hole and slightly bent the flange down or up enough so when you use your hammer it will flatten out.

You just want to add enough of a snap to lay the waste down against the seat but not so much as to dent the metal.

OK, Now make another template but remove the wings for that and lay it on your seat and score the fold lines into your seat. If you use a sharp blade you will only need one pass for the wing folds.
Best process is to mark the fold lines just on the edge as marker point and use a flat steel ruler to score the seats. this way you don't cut your template, you don't cut you, and you don't drift your lines.

OK, Now flip your color choice of foam material. I would suggest that if you are a beginner that you use one color. But remember that the foam cuts out slightly larger than your template.

lay the X side up of your template on the back of the foam and trace with a fine tip marker the pattern. If you want to do wings a different color. use the template without the wings to mark that.

For me the best way to cut the foam is again with the lexan scissors. if you do it slow and carefully, you'll be able to make a nice clean foam back for your seat.

Once that is done peal of the backing and stick that on the part of the seat without the scores.

(The ONLY part that should be scored is the back. and the flanges that were stamped down is where the material will cover. if it helps, be sure to lay the cut material on the seat before you remove the backing to check.)

Now carefully lay the backing on the seat. remember that this stuff is really sticky. so if you do it lightly you should be able to reposition if need be.

Now you should have a seat. Take your flat head screw driver again and carefully push the tip through each loop on the back of the seat. You don't want to tear the foam. just find where your loop holes are. Now that that is done. you flip the seat and push the material through to the other side. You can carefully use the exacto knife to cut away the material. But remember, a sharp knife leaves no jagged edges.

Now take your steel ruler and find your wing points and lightly cut through the foam to create a score for the folds. You will have 3.
2 wings and the seat fold. you just don't want to cut into the metal with much pressure.

Now find a flat edged table and bend your wings down just enough to make your wings and the seat should fold in half how you desire.

There is your seat done.

Ill post the seatbelt construction next week.

Here is the template for the seats. Plus a the original Kirkey design.

Good luck and post em up.

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[reddevildemo]

Thanks Norm. Nice to have this handy.

[Ricochet]

Thanks for the info. Looking forward to the seatbelts.

[scorpiondave]

Thank you Sir!

[SAL45]

Sweet! Thanks for the info Norm!

[team3six]

BUMP

Ill have the how to on the seat belt harnesses Sunday.
Stay subscribed.

Ill also be showing you soon how to make a Powertank on the cheap.

[Rok Out]

I can't wait to see how the belts are made

[team3six]

OK So while I am preparing the seatbelt files.
here is the step by step on the seats

Print your template


Cut template out as shown


Cut out all holes


Get out your Styrene to make a permenent template


Lay your card stock template on the styrene


Should look like this


Cut image away with scissors removing all straight cuts first


Start using the curves scissors to cut away waste (Be sure to use the curve out and not to cut past the lines)


Cut the same way as mee to avoid stressing your cuts or marring up the template





hard template


Now cut out your seatbelt holes.
Just use a sharp exacto and don't push too hard. I recommend cutting two lines at each hole and score it a few times to make it easy to remove.


Just use the 1/4 inch flathead driver to remove waste and hold fingers above and below the punch so you dont crack template and don't stab yourself.



Done


Cut bolsters off your card stock template and make a styrene template





Use straight scissors


Use curved scissors


Now your ready

[team3six]

Now get out you K&S .016 Aluminum sheets
(Youll only need 1 sheet for a set of two seats)


Lay out your template and trace it.



Same program. Straight scissors for straight cuts and waste and curved for the curves as the template was cut.
(Take your time)





Seats done


Now lay out your bolster template


Now if your not confident of holding the template to the metal in fear of slipping or cutting yourself.
Then mark the lines with a fine tipped marker and score with a steel rule.
But just one slow score will be sufficient. and then use the flat part to score the seat craw.



Ready to punch the holes.


Get your pine board and lay the seat on the wood and use the tips of your fingers to hold the flat head screw driver in place. Keep it straight!
And with one hit you should pop through. Its not a huge hit, not a soft hit.
(Practice on your scrap aluminum)




Now just insert your screw driver from the front and back to bend the punched mess to the side so when you hit it with a hammer. it will flatten out without closing the hole up.
again, Not too hard, not too soft.
(Practice on your scrap)




It should look like this


Lay it flat and make sure there is nothing between your seat and wood


Like so


Should look like this




Now get out your foam adhesive sided sheets and trace the seats with TOP facing up ward and cut away waste with straight scissors, and this time the curved scissors should be able to cut everything without having to change direction.






And ready


Now lay out your bolster template and cut the foam bolsters away



Remove backing and CAREFULLY place on the correct side of your seat (The bent mess should be under the foam)
using the flat edge at the bottom of the seat as your guide. also look how centered you are between the bolsters at the craw.
One you are sure you are centered. place the seat down and firmly press against the metal to adhere.



Now you should be centered and ready for your bolsters. again use the botom flat piece of the bolster as your guide and keep it close to the black foam




Done


Now flip your seat over and carefully slide the exact knife along the bottom and top edge of the seat belt holes causing two lines. Once that is done. run the exact blade on the foam side through the same holes.
and then push the flat head screw driver foam side through pushing the foam waste out the back side. it should be easy to pull off with your finger tips.






And your almost complete


Lay your foam side down along a corner edge and carefully bend the bottom bolster and then the top.
You will not want to bend the top piece as much




Now lay flat and bend at the craw. adjust the bolsters to your liking and your done.




Hope that helps you, Now go make your own seats.
Because I only charged $37.50 for mine and $60+ is fricking stupid insane.

[team3six]

OK, No excuses now and these are super easy to make.

The following items you will need are an exacto knife, cutting board, a pair of flat tooth pliers (youll need to modify), needle nose pliers, wire cutters, super glue Gel, E-6000, Wire hat pins, 1/0 tam snap buttons, 1/4 inch Grossgrain ribbon, 6mm small crimps, and patience.

But once you make these a few times. its easy breezy
And you can make these as 4 star or 5 star harnesses.








Now to start I took a normal pair of flat head pliers and I dremmeled the ends to be flat, then I cut off an edge to allow me to modify my pins. but you can do this with a pair of needle nose pliers. It will just be more difficult. the total width of the flat head pliers should be a 1/4 inch



Next take a piece of your hat wire and bend as such to make the seatbelt adjustment tabs







Then snip at the end and they will look like this



Now here is why I make the flat head pliers half the width.
When you get the 6mm crips they will already be bent up. You'll need to flatten them down and re bend the ends as such to accommodate the seatbelt ribbons and not over lap once bent.

First get your needle nose pliers and flatten the tangs




Then get you modified flat head pliers and re fold to the edges, preferably with the edge of a work table.







Now get out your ribbon and cut 10 strips at 4.5 inches in lenth



Now cut a small V into the end. No more than 10mm along the edge


Add a small dot of super glue to the inside of the 6mm crimp and carefully press using a toothpick or the blunt edge of your exacto knife against the glue.
You wont have to do this hard. just seat the ribbon to the glue and set aside to dry for an ample time.
I tend to lay a rule down over my ribbon to make it lay flat as it has a tendency to curl.
You always want the curled part to curve up.





Now use your flat head pliers to hold the end of the crimp and crimp the ends over on the ribbon.




Now take the back side of the button and and flip it so the nipple is facing down.
and add a dab of glue to the edge.
Just one dap and glue one of the seatbelts to that edge, Youll want to make sure the crimped end is facing down.
and let dry again.
Tray and allow about 15-20 minutes to dry. I generally wait more to be sure.
Be careful NOT to get glue into the snap part. IMPORTANT NOT TO DO!





Now once the glue is dry. Wrap a small bead of glue for the other 4 belts.
You'll want to arrange them in a star formate and the top two across from the one you first laid out should be about 1.5 inch wide from each other. its OK to be a tad wider.
again DO NOT GET GLUE IN SNAP! And let dry for about an hour.




Now get your other part of the snap and this time you will lay a thin layer of glue enough to coat the button and snap your nipple into the snap.
Use the end of a exacto knife or screw driver as glue WILL squirt through the button.
Always just use enough glue to do the job. too much and your project is crap because it will take weeks for the glue to dry.
snap the piece in and again let dry.
This is why the seats took so long for me to make when I was selling them. Ample dry time makes them last longer and makes them tough to handle holding in a figure.




Now how to make you quick release.
I use the K&S Tubing. I cant recall the size. but you should be able to relate looking at the pics. Its generally the smallest size available at hobby lobby.
I use the needle nose or flat head pliers to flatten the tube and cut it about 10-12mm long and file the edges with a file to a round.








Now take you E-6000 and add a dab of glue to your cam lock from the center to the bottom edge.
I buy the small packages at Hobby lobby and use a super glue tip to get the precise amount on my project because this stuff comes out fast and thick.
and let it dry for about 10 min.


OK, then just add your seatbelt adjustment tabs by looping the seatbelts through as suck. remember to go Edge up. Edge under, edge up
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Flip over and with the blunt end of the pliers or a screw driver but. push down on the adjustment tabs to flatten out.


Once your happy with the position of the tabs. glue the back side with a light amount, enough to fill both sides of the pin and then smooth out with a toothpick.
Let dry again



And your done.
Now this is why I want you to be sure the glue is dry.
Super Glue has the ability to travel as its drying. If you don't allow ample time for it to dry. it will travel up your seatbelts staining them white and can turn a great idea into garbage quick.


And finished product installed on your seats.



Now if you want to add more realism. Search the internet for cam lock seatbelts and print off the lables in the size you need.
add a clear tape over and under the image. run a blunt end of a pair of scissors over the tap to lock it on the image, cut out your image. and glue to your seatbelts.

Have fun and enjoy.

[Rok Out]

This is awsome mas amigo

[team3six]

Yeah, umm lets not clutter up the thread. Your more then welcome to make the seats how you want.

As I said before, the foam can be purchased at Hobby Lobby, Walmart, Micheals, and several other Craft stores in multiple colors.

The metal can be purchased at Hobby Lobby, Ace hardware, generally most hobby shops that deal with models.

This stuff isn't hard to find, just most people font go to these places.

Decals can be made by coping a photo and printing it on White stickers, then you just put a piece of clear tape over the image, run the blunt end of some scissors over the tape to seal it down and cut out the image.

[Rok Out]

Making these seat as you post let see how them belts are made

[team3six]

Unfortunately, I will not be posting up the seatbelts tonight.
Pulled my back and thats a little more important then the seatbelts.

This info will be up this upcoming Friday.
Sorry