Krakkers F-10 TAG. new ground.

[Krakker]

Originally Posted by The Eye

Nice Build, I LOVE THE CHASSIS I will be starting my Bully TAG build this weekend so i will look at the link thing. If you need any TAG Line products for you chassis just let me know.

Thanks
Aaron

The TAG is a SWEET MOA chassis. Check the link issue, I think Bully owners need a set of mildly bent links to fix this small quirk.
I'm up for testing if anyones up for bending.

[RCROCIN']

Originally Posted by papabash

I was noticing that on my Bully also. I wanted the rear motor clocked up for better clearance on the rocks, but then the links hit the case on one side. I straightened it out some, but it still hits a little at full compression. May have to put a little bend in mine too.

Here is how I corrected the problem on my bully and now there are no clearance issues. The are old lower bent links I cut shorter. Derlin would work great too only needs a slight bend shouldn't be hard. Hope it helps.

[Krakker]

Well, I got the new R2j, links on today and the chassis all back to a roller. All that's left is to wire the motors and install a servo and mount. Then comes the shake down run. Flex is right where I want it and the shaft mounted springs are perfect. Here's some pics before the body goes on.

[papabash]

What are those new wheels you snuck in on us? Look killer, like those rings!

[R2j]

Originally Posted by Krakker

I think Bully owners need a set of mildly bent links to fix this small quirk.I'm up for testing if anyones up for bending.

I use a tubing bender and a heat gun. You only need that slight bend, just don't over heat the Delrin. Leave in the bender to cool a few seconds and your good to go. Heat bead repeat

[xirtic]

I have had to bend my upper links about 5 degrees on most chassis with the Bully's in order to clear the gearboxes. IF you are running 1/4" delrin for the uppers, I might recommend reinforcing the links with something as the deflection of the material itself makes the links feel a little "bendy". If you start running 5/16" or larger diameter uppers, then the issues of the links hitting the gearboxes and limiting articulation increases with the link diameter. The answers to this are simple....reinforce the link first before bending it. This allows you to run a 1/4" diameter delrin slightly bent link...thus limiting interference issues. Aaron knows what I am talking about.....he has seen my rig and how the links get done.

[Krakker]

Originally Posted by papabash

What are those new wheels you snuck in on us? Look killer, like those rings!

I call them Piranna's, I just cut the inner ring out of a set of stock Axial wheels to get the "tooth" look. they are my girls wheels and I just wanted to see how my foam setup would work. Make the rovers pretty tall.

Originally Posted by R2j

I use a tubing bender and a heat gun. You only need that slight bend, just don't over heat the Delrin. Leave in the bender to cool a few seconds and your good to go. Heat bead repeat

I think I'm going to switch out to some metal ones that are thin but still bend them. Your links are killer so far. I might add a long REVO end at the axle and trim back as I need to get the right angle on the front.

Originally Posted by xirtic

I have had to bend my upper links about 5 degrees on most chassis with the Bully's in order to clear the gearboxes. IF you are running 1/4" delrin for the uppers, I might recommend reinforcing the links with something as the deflection of the material itself makes the links feel a little "bendy". If you start running 5/16" or larger diameter uppers, then the issues of the links hitting the gearboxes and limiting articulation increases with the link diameter. The answers to this are simple....reinforce the link first before bending it. This allows you to run a 1/4" diameter delrin slightly bent link...thus limiting interference issues. Aaron knows what I am talking about.....he has seen my rig and how the links get done.

I was thinking about going with the delrin tube over threaded rod but wanted to keep weight down as much as possible so I'm opting for some thinner metal links.
I am how ever going to contact you about that sick servo mount you've got. "The Eye", recommended looking you up for that one and sent me a link with your build. VERY cool. That's the one I want.

[samaruki]

i use 8/32 all threads with srink-to-fet tubing over them with a slight bend your rig looks great....

i like those front shock springs...if you could pm me on what they are....or not.... i will understand..secret stuff and all...

[Krakker]

Up dates with the body and the Berg wheels. The Chisels barely touch now, I'd like to narrow these wheels in the future. I'm really bumbed tho about the body. I did up a really nice C-10 crawler body, but with the small amount of electronics on the top tray of the chassis, it sits all jacked. So I just remounted the old body. I kinda like how it's perportioned to the rig versus the C-10, but the Chevy is just cool.
The servo is not mounted, I'm awaiting a "special" unit that will be in production soon. (again, Top Secret, but you'll like'm when they hit the forum) Anyways, I took a bunch of pics on my test course while I tested usual S.J.T. (stuff, Junk & Things) that a crawler will go through.
Weight distibution, break over, verticle and tip are outstanding so far, we'll se how things work when we are able to test dig, turning and push.
I think the MOA will definantly handle the crack better if a tire slips into it than the shaftties have. I got my first itch for MOA's after seeing how Harley's, Arch chassis Berg did on my course.

[Jason S]

what size rod are those links?
3/8. 1/4.? or?

[Krakker]

Originally Posted by Jason S

what size rod are those links?
3/8. 1/4.? or?

They be 3/8's links from Shon, at R2j Kustoms. Nicely tappered athe Revo end. I did how ever use a "long" REVO end and cut it back about 1/8" on the front lowers to get the right angle for the steering linkage and keep the shock where I wanted it. It sets just at 12 1/4" and almost 10 1/2" wide. The Berg wheels make it wider but the chisels needed pushed out a bit to clear the shocks. With the shaft mounted springs tho, there will be NO shreading of the tires.

[Krakker]

Ka-POW! Just scored a Futaba 3PK-S, off the bay with receiver and drop down wheel attachment for only $#^^%*. I know it sounds insane since I just got the dig setup done but I think I'm going to run dual FXRs, after talking to Josh (AKA Harley) for total control of the front and rear.

[samaruki]

Originally Posted by Krakker

I think I'm going to run dual FXRs, after talking to Josh (AKA Harley) for total control of the front and rear.

Josh is the man... used his set-up for my 4pk.

Thanks for the springs you sent me i will let you know how they work. For now i am trying out this

" Traxxas big bore #4760/Losi mini springs #LOSB1117"

the only problem i am having is trying to keep the shocks from leaking out the oil. Can't try different weights of oil if it will not stay in the shock

[xirtic]

Originally Posted by samaruki

Josh is the man... used his set-up for my 4pk.

Thanks for the springs you sent me i will let you know how they work. For now i am trying out this

" Traxxas big bore #4760/Losi mini springs #LOSB1117"

the only problem i am having is trying to keep the shocks from leaking out the oil. Can't try different weights of oil if it will not stay in the shock

Try a little Associated GREEN SLIME to stop that leak.

[samaruki]

thanks Xirtic (Josh)

my LHS has some i will pick up some and try it thanks again TH