** Bending Delrin **

sheedy126 · 11-04-2009, 11:08 PM

Making some delrin links for some buddies and me and would like to know how to bend delrin.

pics would be a bonus, any help would be great

thanks

bmsgangster · 11-04-2009, 11:10 PM

put it in a vice (soft jaws) heat up the delrin till it starts to bend, it bends its realy easy

Jeepial · 11-05-2009, 12:14 AM

an adjustable heat gun is your friend..

xirtic · 11-05-2009, 04:27 AM

I use a jig (built not bought) so that my links are all bent consistently in terms of angle and placement within the link.

1. Cut Delrin to length.
2. Insert threaded stud (This method of "stud" can vary due to personal preference...I use 4mm threaded rod all the way thru my links.)
3. Insert link into jig and secure.
4. Use heat gun to soften the delrin at the bend location
5. Bend in the jig.
6. let cool for a few seconds before removing from the jig.

If you are just building these for yourself, then a jig is just a luxury...and a vise will work fine. BUT, if you are going to be building them more often for pals, or whatever...then a jig is nice. IT allows you to reproduce the SAME link again and again. I started just using the vise....but now the jig is the only way for me.

Duuuuuuuude · 11-05-2009, 07:11 AM

Got a pic of that jig?

xirtic · 11-05-2009, 07:14 AM

Pardon the poor BlackBerry Camera quality....but these pics show the jig that I use.

Duuuuuuuude · 11-05-2009, 07:30 AM

You'll have to excuse me for being retarded, but could you lay a link in the jig? I can't quite tell by the pics what exactly is going on there...

xirtic · 11-05-2009, 07:46 AM

OK....I do not build my Delrin links like 99% of the builders out there. Most people do the following:

1. Buy 5/16" or larger Delrin ROD stock
2. Bend it
3. Drill a hole in the ends
4. Screw in a STUD
5. Put on an end

I do this process:

1. Buy 1/4" Delrin TUBE stock
2. Cut to length
3. Upen the Inside Diameter of the tube to accept full length threaded rod stock
4. Push the threaded rod thru the tube
5. Where you see the aluminum angle with the threaded rod in it in the pic...that is where the unbent link gets bolted to the angle. The threaded rod in the pic is just to hold the wing nuts so I do not lose them between link builds. I use a wing nut on each end of the unbent link to hold the link in the jig, as well as keep the delrin from moving around while being bent.
6. Heat the Delrin (with the steel threaded rod inserted in it) at the bend point (The steel round piece to the right of the aluminum angle). That steel round piece is my bend point.
7. Bend until the long (free) end is parallel with the top of the jig.
8. Remove both wing nuts....the link is done.

I prefer 1/4" Delrin TUBE stock built this way because:
1. It adds weight LOW.
2. The thinner diameter allows more flexible link placement without hitting gear cases, shocks, ect.
3. The steel all the way thru makes these links next to unbendable under driving/fall conditions. I have seen other delrin links deform over time...these do not.
4. Studs can pull out of the Delrin....these cannot. (The REVO ends are still a weak point)
5. They cannot just crack...I have seen studded links crack under impact at the stud.

This was long-winded...but I hope that it helped.

Duuuuuuuude · 11-05-2009, 07:49 AM

It was the threaded rod with the wingnuts that was throwing me for a loop...lol

I think I'm on the same page now, thanks for the info.

the3kid · 11-05-2009, 07:52 AM

Love the jig...usually heat will bend most anything...lol just watch those temps cuz you could melt your rod!!! lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by xirtic

Pardon the poor BlackBerry Camera quality....but these pics show the jig that I use.

xirtic · 11-05-2009, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the3kid

Love the jig...usually heat will bend most anything...lol just watch those temps cuz you could melt your rod!!! lol

I have made probably close to 40 sets of links (minimum) with this jig...I have the process down pretty good. Before this jig...my previous one saw about 30 sets....but it was wood based...and did not survive mass production. On a Saturday of production, I make about 10 sets (4 links) in just about 2 hours.

sheedy126 · 11-05-2009, 04:22 PM

thanks for the information guys, really helped.

im thinking a jig and a heat gun would do the trick to be consistent. i plant on selling the links if they turn out to be top notch

11-04-2009, 11:08 PM	#1
sheedy126 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Tri-Cities Posts: 146	Bending Delrin Making some delrin links for some buddies and me and would like to know how to bend delrin. pics would be a bonus, any help would be great thanks __________________ [img]http://www.danasoft.com/sig/SheedysSign382567.jpg[/img] http://www.EWRCRC.com/

11-04-2009, 11:10 PM	#2
bmsgangster Team Up Hill Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: san diego Posts: 63	put it in a vice (soft jaws) heat up the delrin till it starts to bend, it bends its realy easy __________________ UTH team driver Last edited by bmsgangster; 11-04-2009 at 11:16 PM.

11-05-2009, 12:14 AM	#3
Jeepial No rest for the Wicked!!! Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Knee deep off in Black Label Crawlers!! Posts: 1,249	an adjustable heat gun is your friend.. __________________ Losi-Holmes Hobbies-CheapBatteryPacks Vanquish Products-Crawler InNovations-Panther Rockthrasher R/C Paint&Graphics

11-05-2009, 04:27 AM	#4
xirtic SCRC Vice-President Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Streamwood, IL Posts: 709	I use a jig (built not bought) so that my links are all bent consistently in terms of angle and placement within the link. 1. Cut Delrin to length. 2. Insert threaded stud (This method of "stud" can vary due to personal preference...I use 4mm threaded rod all the way thru my links.) 3. Insert link into jig and secure. 4. Use heat gun to soften the delrin at the bend location 5. Bend in the jig. 6. let cool for a few seconds before removing from the jig. If you are just building these for yourself, then a jig is just a luxury...and a vise will work fine. BUT, if you are going to be building them more often for pals, or whatever...then a jig is nice. IT allows you to reproduce the SAME link again and again. I started just using the vise....but now the jig is the only way for me. __________________ "Xirtic" a.k.a. Josh XIRTIC - Remote Control Rock Crawling Products "Team RCSLOT" Suburban Chicago Rock Crawlers BigSquidRC Last edited by xirtic; 11-05-2009 at 07:16 AM.

11-05-2009, 07:11 AM	#5
Duuuuuuuude Addicted to Placebos Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: using the god damn search button! Posts: 1,102	Got a pic of that jig? __________________ “Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.” ~ Dr. Seuss ~ Axial ~ CDW ~ Eritex ~ Holmes Hobbies ~ RPP ~ Wheel Works ~

11-05-2009, 07:30 AM	#7
Duuuuuuuude Addicted to Placebos Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: using the god damn search button! Posts: 1,102	You'll have to excuse me for being retarded, but could you lay a link in the jig? I can't quite tell by the pics what exactly is going on there... __________________ “Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.” ~ Dr. Seuss ~ Axial ~ CDW ~ Eritex ~ Holmes Hobbies ~ RPP ~ Wheel Works ~

11-05-2009, 07:46 AM	#8
xirtic SCRC Vice-President Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Streamwood, IL Posts: 709	OK....I do not build my Delrin links like 99% of the builders out there. Most people do the following: 1. Buy 5/16" or larger Delrin ROD stock 2. Bend it 3. Drill a hole in the ends 4. Screw in a STUD 5. Put on an end I do this process: 1. Buy 1/4" Delrin TUBE stock 2. Cut to length 3. Upen the Inside Diameter of the tube to accept full length threaded rod stock 4. Push the threaded rod thru the tube 5. Where you see the aluminum angle with the threaded rod in it in the pic...that is where the unbent link gets bolted to the angle. The threaded rod in the pic is just to hold the wing nuts so I do not lose them between link builds. I use a wing nut on each end of the unbent link to hold the link in the jig, as well as keep the delrin from moving around while being bent. 6. Heat the Delrin (with the steel threaded rod inserted in it) at the bend point (The steel round piece to the right of the aluminum angle). That steel round piece is my bend point. 7. Bend until the long (free) end is parallel with the top of the jig. 8. Remove both wing nuts....the link is done. I prefer 1/4" Delrin TUBE stock built this way because: 1. It adds weight LOW. 2. The thinner diameter allows more flexible link placement without hitting gear cases, shocks, ect. 3. The steel all the way thru makes these links next to unbendable under driving/fall conditions. I have seen other delrin links deform over time...these do not. 4. Studs can pull out of the Delrin....these cannot. (The REVO ends are still a weak point) 5. They cannot just crack...I have seen studded links crack under impact at the stud. This was long-winded...but I hope that it helped. __________________ "Xirtic" a.k.a. Josh XIRTIC - Remote Control Rock Crawling Products "Team RCSLOT" Suburban Chicago Rock Crawlers BigSquidRC

11-05-2009, 07:49 AM	#9
Duuuuuuuude Addicted to Placebos Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: using the god damn search button! Posts: 1,102	It was the threaded rod with the wingnuts that was throwing me for a loop...lol I think I'm on the same page now, thanks for the info. __________________ “Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.” ~ Dr. Seuss ~ Axial ~ CDW ~ Eritex ~ Holmes Hobbies ~ RPP ~ Wheel Works ~

11-05-2009, 04:22 PM	#12
sheedy126 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Tri-Cities Posts: 146	thanks for the information guys, really helped. im thinking a jig and a heat gun would do the trick to be consistent. i plant on selling the links if they turn out to be top notch __________________ [img]http://www.danasoft.com/sig/SheedysSign382567.jpg[/img] http://www.EWRCRC.com/ Last edited by sheedy126; 11-05-2009 at 04:54 PM.

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