RCCrawler Forums

Rockcrawler · 01-18-2008, 11:15 PM

Here is the thread on how it workes.
New dig for "Rockcrawler#4"

A few people have asked me to do a build thread so here it is.

Parts you will need:

1-3/8 inch galvinized nipple
2-1/4 x 1/8 inch steel bushings
a small piece of thin (.12) steel plate
2-male stampede shafts
1-female stampede shaft
1-turnbuckle or link to hook up to the servo

Ok, this is what I started with.

First thing is to cut the 3/8" galvinized nipple. I have not played with the length but I cut mine to 1 3/4".

Next, you will need to run a 1/4" tap into the nipple so that the 1/4x1/8 bushnig will thread into the nipple. You could probably get away without the next step and might even work better. I have only built 3 of these and I did them all the same. But I took the 1/4 x 1/8 bushings and cut them down to .40.

Next, you need to go ahead and weld the piece of thin metal onto the nipple so you will have something to connect the linkage to.

Now to get the bushing ready for lock. I used a angle grinder but there are other tools that you could easily use to do this. I cut 4 slots in the bushing so that the lock pin, which I will install later, will hold the rear end. Its easier to do this when its tight and on the nipple. This only needs to be done to one of the bushings.

Go ahead and install the other bushing in the opposite end of the nipple. So you should have a nipple with a bushing in each end. I dont remember the sixe bit I used, but you need one just big enough to drill the threads out of the inside of the bushing. As long as the male ends will slide through, it should be ok. The bushing on the left has been drilled.

This is what the bushings should look like when your done cutting on them.

Next, you will need to cut the female shaft. The length of the cut depends on the cuts of the nipple and the bushings. You want some slack for the shaft to move back and forth about 1/8" or so.

With the one of the bushings in, insert the female shaft inside the nipple.

One bushing in and the female shaft inside.

Now, just put the other bushing in. You should have this now.

You can use just about any type of metal to use for the pin lock out. I didnt get pics of the pin but you can see it in the pics below. Also, on the male shafts, its better to make all four slots on the shaft the same width so that the drive only has to make 1/4 of a turn to engage instead of 1/2 a turn.

Thats it. It looks kinda long, but the last 2 I made only took about an hour or so. Thanks for reading.

I know I probably left something out. :?Its late and I am tired so if you see something wrong, please let me know.

DISTURBIN' tha PEACE · 01-19-2008, 06:10 AM

Nice job.

Z-Rider · 01-19-2008, 06:37 AM

I like it. Seems to be more "rebuildable" than some other designs. If you strip the splines in the female part just unthread the nipple and install a new section of driveshaft.

Great write up.

Z

eric113 · 01-19-2008, 07:54 AM

Seems like it super strong and rebuildable. You work in plumbing shop huh ?

Stormin2u · 01-19-2008, 08:24 AM

Thanks for the build thread...nice Work

Rockcrawler · 01-19-2008, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DISTURBIN' tha PEACE

Nice job.

Thank you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z-Rider

I like it. Seems to be more "rebuildable" than some other designs. If you strip the splines in the female part just unthread the nipple and install a new section of driveshaft.

Great write up.

Z

Yep, that the reason I like it so much. Easy to rebuild, and very strong.

Quote:

Originally Posted by eric113

Seems like it super strong and rebuildable. You work in plumbing shop huh ?

I am a pipefitter at U.S. Pipe and Foundry. But all of these parts can be found at Lowes or Home Depot

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stormin2u

Thanks for the build thread...nice Work

Thank you Stormin.

RXcrawler · 01-19-2008, 08:39 AM

I have seen this system in action it works very well. Engages and disengages smoothly, good job Jeff!

hellbentrodder · 01-19-2008, 10:31 AM

Thanks for the the details. I think I am gonna have to start on mine today. LOL. Congrats on the soon to be.

Zardoz · 01-19-2008, 10:52 AM

Cool dig. How long did you make the tranny side male driveshaft? How do you keep it aligned in the pipe? I would think there would be a little slop because the male driveshaft outer diameter is smaller then the inner diameter of the bushing, but I could be wrong. Does it pop out under articulation?

Rockcrawler · 01-19-2008, 11:08 AM

Glad you asked because I was so tired last night that I forgot. But I used the same method of using a piece of all thread pressed or threaded into the trans side shaft. Then took the threads off the side that goes into the axels.

It has not unlocked on me yet. I ran it at a comp in ATL a few weeks ago and it worked fine. 1 time it didnt want to go full lock when I had the front end up in the air. But I shifted it out and back in, then it locked. It could definately use some tuning but this was the first one I built and it has been n the truck since.

Zardoz · 01-19-2008, 11:32 AM

Thanks, I figured you did something like that.

stublet · 01-21-2008, 12:50 PM

so how long are the male shafts? are they both the same length?:neutral:

Rockcrawler · 01-21-2008, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scorpiocrwlr08

so how long are the male shafts? are they both the same length?:neutral:

That depends on the truck. I put both shafts in and cut them so that they could be end to end. Make sure you run the truck through the suspension cycle before you finish. My shafts actually move in and out about 1/8 " in the cycle.

yelo · 01-21-2008, 04:24 PM

Can we see the other end of it? I meen, the servo and linkage part if the system. I'm curious of how you did it...

Thank's in advance, Rene

red devils · 01-22-2008, 04:03 PM

do you mean 3/8 nipple instead of 1/4?

cbauer210 · 01-22-2008, 05:13 PM

wouldn't this design still be trying to force power to the rear wheels since essentially the 2 male axles are locked together on the female piece? Im sure I am missing something here....could someone explain?

Rockcrawler · 01-22-2008, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yelo

Can we see the other end of it? I meen, the servo and linkage part if the system. I'm curious of how you did it...

Thank's in advance, Rene

I will try to get a pic this week and get it posted.

Quote:

Originally Posted by red devils

do you mean 3/8 nipple instead of 1/4?

Yes, its 3/8". Like I said, I was tired.

I wonder how many are sitting at home trying to get a 1/4 x 1/8 bushing into a 1/4" nipple.

Sorry Guys.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbauer210

wouldn't this design still be trying to force power to the rear wheels since essentially the 2 male axles are locked together on the female piece? Im sure I am missing something here....could someone explain?

No, when the female shaft slides back to lock the rear axle, the front male shaft is no longer in the female piece.

cbauer210 · 01-22-2008, 06:46 PM

So the all-thread keeps the two shafts aligned and the outer slide actually almost fully slides off the tranny side of the shaft....correct?

Does this setup have any problems re-engaging back into 4wd? Because the splines on the female shaft need to line back up with the male groves....right?

Sorry for the dumb questions...just want to fully understand this before I do it.

yelo · 01-22-2008, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbauer210

So the all-thread keeps the two shafts aligned and the outer slide actually almost fully slides off the tranny side of the shaft....correct?

Does this setup have any problems re-engaging back into 4wd? Because the splines on the female shaft need to line back up with the male groves....right?

Sorry for the dumb questions...just want to fully understand this before I do it.

I'm with you on that one, That's why Iask for pics of the linkage/servo set-up.

Thank's rockcrawler, I'll wait for that...

Rockcrawler · 01-22-2008, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbauer210

So the all-thread keeps the two shafts aligned and the outer slide actually almost fully slides off the tranny side of the shaft....correct?

Does this setup have any problems re-engaging back into 4wd? Because the splines on the female shaft need to line back up with the male groves....right?

Sorry for the dumb questions...just want to fully understand this before I do it.

Other people might give you hell, but I am not one of those unless you ask what batteries or body for my AX-10.

Anyway, You are correct about the all thread. All that does is keeps both male shafts aligned so that they wont try to fall and bind. I have had no problem getting it back into 4wd. Evey now and then, I will have trouble getting it to disconnect when I am almost straight up vertical. I am going to try to make a few changes to it within the next few weeks to get it perfect.

Also, on the male splines, I went ahead and used a dremel to make all the splines the same so that it only takes a 1/4 of a turn to engage or disengage.

01-18-2008, 11:15 PM	#1
Rockcrawler I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hueytown, Alabama Posts: 6,777	Dig build thread. Here is the thread on how it workes. New dig for "Rockcrawler#4" A few people have asked me to do a build thread so here it is. Parts you will need: 1-3/8 inch galvinized nipple 2-1/4 x 1/8 inch steel bushings a small piece of thin (.12) steel plate 2-male stampede shafts 1-female stampede shaft 1-turnbuckle or link to hook up to the servo Ok, this is what I started with. First thing is to cut the 3/8" galvinized nipple. I have not played with the length but I cut mine to 1 3/4". Next, you will need to run a 1/4" tap into the nipple so that the 1/4x1/8 bushnig will thread into the nipple. You could probably get away without the next step and might even work better. I have only built 3 of these and I did them all the same. But I took the 1/4 x 1/8 bushings and cut them down to .40. Next, you need to go ahead and weld the piece of thin metal onto the nipple so you will have something to connect the linkage to. Now to get the bushing ready for lock. I used a angle grinder but there are other tools that you could easily use to do this. I cut 4 slots in the bushing so that the lock pin, which I will install later, will hold the rear end. Its easier to do this when its tight and on the nipple. This only needs to be done to one of the bushings. Go ahead and install the other bushing in the opposite end of the nipple. So you should have a nipple with a bushing in each end. I dont remember the sixe bit I used, but you need one just big enough to drill the threads out of the inside of the bushing. As long as the male ends will slide through, it should be ok. The bushing on the left has been drilled. This is what the bushings should look like when your done cutting on them. Next, you will need to cut the female shaft. The length of the cut depends on the cuts of the nipple and the bushings. You want some slack for the shaft to move back and forth about 1/8" or so. With the one of the bushings in, insert the female shaft inside the nipple. One bushing in and the female shaft inside. Now, just put the other bushing in. You should have this now. You can use just about any type of metal to use for the pin lock out. I didnt get pics of the pin but you can see it in the pics below. Also, on the male shafts, its better to make all four slots on the shaft the same width so that the drive only has to make 1/4 of a turn to engage instead of 1/2 a turn. Thats it. It looks kinda long, but the last 2 I made only took about an hour or so. Thanks for reading. I know I probably left something out. :?Its late and I am tired so if you see something wrong, please let me know. Attached Images Last edited by Rockcrawler; 01-22-2008 at 06:23 PM.

01-19-2008, 10:52 AM	#9
Zardoz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Englewood, CO Posts: 292	Cool dig. How long did you make the tranny side male driveshaft? How do you keep it aligned in the pipe? I would think there would be a little slop because the male driveshaft outer diameter is smaller then the inner diameter of the bushing, but I could be wrong. Does it pop out under articulation? Last edited by Zardoz; 01-19-2008 at 10:59 AM.

01-21-2008, 12:50 PM	#12
stublet Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Lakewood-Crawlerado Posts: 219	length of male shafts? so how long are the male shafts? are they both the same length?:neutral:

01-19-2008, 06:10 AM	#2
DISTURBIN' tha PEACE I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: On the G-Train!!!!! Posts: 6,081	Nice job.

01-19-2008, 06:37 AM	#3
Z-Rider Rock Stacker Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Davison Posts: 79	I like it. Seems to be more "rebuildable" than some other designs. If you strip the splines in the female part just unthread the nipple and install a new section of driveshaft. Great write up. Z

01-19-2008, 07:54 AM	#4
eric113 Moderator Rule Breaker Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Austin, Tx Posts: 5,970	Seems like it super strong and rebuildable. You work in plumbing shop huh ?

01-19-2008, 08:24 AM	#5
Stormin2u I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2007 Location: Taylors Falls just hanging with the MNRCRC crew. Posts: 7,843	Thanks for the build thread...nice Work

01-19-2008, 08:39 AM	#7
RXcrawler Moderator Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In my head Posts: 2,744	I have seen this system in action it works very well. Engages and disengages smoothly, good job Jeff!

01-19-2008, 10:31 AM	#8
hellbentrodder Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Cotati Posts: 704	Thanks for the the details. I think I am gonna have to start on mine today. LOL. Congrats on the soon to be.

01-19-2008, 11:08 AM	#10
Rockcrawler I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hueytown, Alabama Posts: 6,777	Glad you asked because I was so tired last night that I forgot. But I used the same method of using a piece of all thread pressed or threaded into the trans side shaft. Then took the threads off the side that goes into the axels. It has not unlocked on me yet. I ran it at a comp in ATL a few weeks ago and it worked fine. 1 time it didnt want to go full lock when I had the front end up in the air. But I shifted it out and back in, then it locked. It could definately use some tuning but this was the first one I built and it has been n the truck since.

01-19-2008, 11:32 AM	#11
Zardoz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Englewood, CO Posts: 292	Thanks, I figured you did something like that.

01-21-2008, 04:24 PM	#14
yelo Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Canada Posts: 74	Can we see the other end of it? I meen, the servo and linkage part if the system. I'm curious of how you did it... Thank's in advance, Rene

01-22-2008, 04:03 PM	#15
red devils Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: monroeville Posts: 20	do you mean 3/8 nipple instead of 1/4?

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01-22-2008, 05:13 PM	#16
cbauer210 Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Garden State Posts: 18	wouldn't this design still be trying to force power to the rear wheels since essentially the 2 male axles are locked together on the female piece? Im sure I am missing something here....could someone explain?

01-22-2008, 06:46 PM	#18
cbauer210 Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Garden State Posts: 18	So the all-thread keeps the two shafts aligned and the outer slide actually almost fully slides off the tranny side of the shaft....correct? Does this setup have any problems re-engaging back into 4wd? Because the splines on the female shaft need to line back up with the male groves....right? Sorry for the dumb questions...just want to fully understand this before I do it.

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