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Thread: Step by Step ... HOME MADE BODY

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Old 04-23-2009, 10:07 AM   #1
GJM
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Default Step by Step ... HOME MADE BODY

THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY
(NOT FOR SALE)




OK, here are some Step by Step instructions on how I have been making my HOME MADE BODIES.



I start with either several small blocks and/or one large block (that I cut to the desired size) of Floral Foam (Hobby Lobby or local craft store). I have found that GORILLA glue works the best, but go light and on use it in the center of the joints.

Floral Foam: $8.00
Gorilla Glue: no cost because I use so little ( approx. $0.01)




Here are the tools I am using; RULER, SURE FORM, BREAD KNIFE and SHARPY.



I first draw the top view of the desired shape on the top of the Floral block with a SHARY. Once I have the rough shape I begin to cut the block with the BREAD KNIFE. It helps keep the cuts straight if I draw vertical lines on the sides of the block.



I then finish off the design by drawing the desired contour on the side of the block. After using the BREAD KNIFE I use the SURE FORM to cut and round the body. I also cut out the wheel wells using this process. So far I have found it better to indent the wheel wells because of the amount of vacuum that I have; it seem to give a more true "pull". I also use small scrapes of the foam to sand the form into the desired shape. This is very useful in the detail lines of the body.



Next I cut a piece of 0.04" PTEG to the frame shape and get my frame (18"X18") ready.

2'X2' sheet of PETG: $4.00



I staple the PETG to the frame. I try to go over board with the staples to help keep the plastic tight.

Staples: $0.25



After the staples are in I hammer the staples to get a better seal when the plastic is applied to the body; basically I am trying to get the staples as flat as possible.



The PETG comes with a film on both sides. I make sure that I am piling of what will be the inside of the body, ie the top of the frame.



Once I have the plastic ready I pre-heat the oven to 450 F. This takes about 15 minutes which is just enough time for me to finish up the process.



While the oven is pre-heating I use Vaseline to fill in any cracks, dents, and/or glue seems.

Vaseline: $0.50



To help the mold release and to get the body to "pull" with out texture I use lotion to get a clear and clean finish.

Hand Lotion: $0.25



Some areas do not get any negative pressure so I drill holes in the form and cover the area with a uniform texture material. This allows the plastic to take shape in a smaller area. Some design will not need this step.



Next I set up my vacuum table close to the oven and about knee level. This allows me to get a good and even amount of force while applying the plastic to the body.



When I hook up the shop vac I make sure the hose is straight. This helps with the amount of negative pressure that the plastic will see.



I then place the body on the vacuum table.



Now that the oven is pre-heated it is time for the plastic to go in the oven. I place the wooden frame on the oven rack with the plastic on the top of the frame. The heating process only takes a few minute so I keep a close eye on it. Once the plastic starts to sag in the middle we are getting close.

(DO THIS STEP QUICKLY) As soon as the plastic sags to the oven rack (about 4" because of the height of my frame) I pull the plastic out of the oven. I flip the frame so the plastic is hang of the bottom of the frame (no photo). I place the plastic directly on the body and then apply pressure. once the plastics starts to take shape I hit the power to the vacuum (I use an extension cord that has a foot switch). I allow the vacuum to do its magic for about 1-2 minute and then it is time to cool.

(If the vacuum is running when you apply the plastic to the form you will trap air between the form and the plastic. This will cause your body to have waves in the final shape)



This is what I get. You can see the affects of the Vaseline on the seem in the middle of the form. Also notice the texture of the excess plastic, it takes the shape of the peg board. After the body is fully cooled I carefully cut the body out and throw away the extra plastic (it still will have the staples in it so I take it to the out side trash per the wife's request)



This is the body mounted on my Comp AX10. I lined the sides of the body with Duct Tape to protect the paint because I am not confident that the paints adheres to PETG as well as it does to LEXAN.

After some testing we will find out.

Lexan Paint: $2.00
Liquid Mask: $1.00



RAW MATERIAL COST FOR A PAINTED HOME MADE BODY:

$16.00

I am still working on the process and getting it dialed in. I will continue to post improvements and new designs.





Check out this Youtube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5CGfoxnKaQ) for more instructions on the vacuum table and general process. I do not do the vacuum floor adapter, I just use a core bit to to dill a hole the size of my vacuum hose; one less joint.

Last edited by GJM; 04-23-2009 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:22 AM   #2
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Nice work.

WOW, I feel So over charged now when I BUY my bodies... Im in the wrong business.
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:42 AM   #3
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That is a very cool idea. It would be fun to make my own bodies, but I would still have to have someone else paint them for me ( I suck at Paint, I think it hates me ). Great job .
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:08 AM   #4
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But now how much would it cost if you made a body for someone,you have $16.00 in a RAW MATERIAL COST FOR A PAINTED HOME MADE BODY What would the Labor Cost be.
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:19 AM   #5
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Great tutorial! I might be attempting one of these in the very near future.
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:37 AM   #6
GJM
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How much do you want to pay me per hour?

I can pull as many bodies of of one mold as I want so let say 10 bodies per mold that is about 15 min per body for forming. Then the vacuum forming is process is about 15 min; prep and all. For total of 30 minutes per body.

As for paint, that is anyone guess, and it total depends on the design and detail. The paint labor cost would better be answered by a professional painter (please pipe in).

If I were to make these I could get them out the door clear as cheap as $20.00 (NOT LOOKING TO SELL THESE). The RAW price is much cheaper now that we are talking quantity; the $8 Floral Foam form becomes $0.80. That would make the RAW cost about $9.00.

So that would make it $11.00 profit which works out to be $22.00 per HOUR. I personally would make bodies for $22.00 /hr. I am doing at a cost now and I LOVE it!

GOOD QUESTION!
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:45 AM   #7
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Make sure you say you aren't going to be selling or your thread will get deleted since you dont have a vendor's star. Just wanted to point that out quick before this good info gets pulled down.

Thanks for the tutorial!!
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:03 PM   #8
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Nice Work and great tutorial
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:33 PM   #9
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Great easy to follow tutorial. Thanks for the post!
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Old 04-23-2009, 03:15 PM   #10
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This is a great tutorial......5 stars from me
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:20 AM   #11
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Great tutorial! Have you tried forming lexan in this manner?
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:15 AM   #12
GJM
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Thanks for the feed back guys!

I have used lexan. Because of the high water content in the lexan it makes the lexan hard to work with. The lexan cools very (very) fast and I can not get a good pull.

I am srill working on the lexan process.
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:40 AM   #13
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idk where to get petg but good job
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Old 04-24-2009, 12:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyrock View Post
idk where to get petg but good job
x2!
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Old 04-24-2009, 02:04 PM   #15
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Very cool. Now to figure out how to do this without the GF finding out about it.

Justin
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:24 PM   #16
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Rather then using the foam could you use a hard body from Nikko or even Tamiya or would it get to hot..?
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:31 PM   #17
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That's a sweet write up. I've always wanted to form my own body!
Thanks
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Old 05-12-2009, 09:25 PM   #18
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I use Vaseline to fill in any cracks.
Vaseline: $0.50

I use lotion to get a clear and clean finish.

Hand Lotion: $0.25


A Home MADE BODY: $16.00


Useing a great thread to make a poor joke. priceless


Looks good man keep us up to date.

Last edited by Creepy Inc.; 05-13-2009 at 07:14 AM.
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Old 05-12-2009, 09:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creepy Inc. View Post
Pirceless
?

Not to sure what you mean? I guess you didn't see the other costs.
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Old 05-13-2009, 08:00 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVB View Post
Rather then using the foam could you use a hard body from Nikko or even Tamiya or would it get to hot..?

You don't put the body in the oven, just the lexan. And yes, you can mold a Nikko or tamiya, but don't sell it because of copyright
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