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09-15-2007, 06:30 PM
| #1 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Gilroy
Posts: 192
|  CXT 6x6 Flat Bed Tow Rig
Here is my CXT tow rig build. Plan calls for: 6 wheel drive only front axle steers Custom solid axles 2 ft long flat bed to carry either 2 2.2s or my big buggy. emaxx 2 speed tranny 1/4 scale steering servo, prob mounted up in the chassis Ive been collecting parts for awhile and trying to start on the axles for a few weeks. Since no one was returning my phone calls today I decided to head to the shop and start on the front axle. Got most of it mocked up and tacked together. Ran into an issue with the pivot on the knuckle compared to the pivot in the ujoint. Seems like they are not on the same plane and cause the shaft to move in the tube and hit the tube causing huge loss in steering. Going to drink beer and stare at it tonight to see what I can think of to fix the issue. Axle as of right now.  Under the CXT body  Side shot  |
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09-15-2007, 06:48 PM
| #2 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Gilroy
Posts: 192
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Heres what I mean by the pivots...  |
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09-15-2007, 08:40 PM
| #3 |
| Colt Python/SR9c  Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
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looks like your axle tubes reduce in size. you should have used the bigger stuff, as the axles do move back and forth some. Also, get some 5mm x.80 nuts and thread onto the knuckle balls. That way they are not screwed all the way in  |
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09-15-2007, 08:58 PM
| #4 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Gilroy
Posts: 192
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They reduce because I bought the smaller stuff thinking that the yokes would fit in it, they didnt. Knowing that none of the hardware stores around here had anything bigger, I found some tube that would go over the yoke and the tube I had. One of those work with what ya got builds. If I come across some of the right size then I might re do them before final welding. Putting nuts out would move the knuckle pivot out farther, not really helping me out. I just modded a piece and am waiting for it to dry to see if I have a fix.  |
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09-16-2007, 12:23 AM
| #5 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Gilroy
Posts: 192
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I guess I was bored tonight. A little cutting and some jb weld.....   Still need to add some bracing on the side, but it turns a lot better. Just not sure it will stand up to my abuse. |
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09-18-2007, 09:59 PM
| #6 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Gilroy
Posts: 192
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Well instead of the cut and welded knuckle I think Im going to go this route. I do need to redo the tabs now that I added some nylon washers in there. I think this is far stronger then the cut knuckle.  |
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09-25-2007, 10:44 AM
| #7 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 242
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 Get some brakeline that I am sure you have in your garage and add it between the 2 plates. Then get rid of the tubes all together. Or cut the conduit off the walls at the shop and use that. Kevin won't mind. | |
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09-29-2007, 09:55 PM
| #8 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Gilroy
Posts: 192
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It looks more scale then brake line axles. :-P I dont have a garage anymore so no I dont have brake line laying around. |
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10-06-2007, 01:08 AM
| #9 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Fallon, NV
Posts: 222
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Thats nice work on those custom axles I think I might do that for my 4 link project
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10-11-2007, 10:44 PM
| #10 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Gilroy
Posts: 192
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Time for an update. Spent some time after work today finishing the rears up. Well atleast finishing the mock up of them. Got the center axle pieces cut and the pass through done. Need to glue it up at some point. I guess I can start on the chassis now.  |
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10-14-2007, 05:14 AM
| #11 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Denmark
Posts: 904
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Here is an adapter plate you can use on the E maxx knokles instead of the ball joints  |
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10-22-2007, 06:26 PM
| #12 | |
| Newbie Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Burbs of chicago
Posts: 27
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10-22-2007, 09:35 PM
| #13 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Gilroy
Posts: 192
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take 2 of the emaxx diffs, cut them in half, put the two pinion sides together with pinions in both and bam your done. Well thats the run down atleast. The rear most axle would then need to be turned upside down as its input is rotating backwards.
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10-25-2007, 11:41 PM
| #14 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Gilroy
Posts: 192
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Update time. Well got Kevin to tig the bed together tonight. Way better then riveting the whole thing together. Its 3/4x3/4x1/16 angle on the sides, 1/2x1/8 braces under the bed and then 25 gauge sheet aluminum that will be riveted down. Its 3 feet long. :blink: Thats just the bed. Kevin welding it up.  Sitting on the frame all mocked up.  |
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10-27-2007, 03:43 AM
| #15 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sinking Spring
Posts: 572
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That thing is HUGE!!  |
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10-27-2007, 09:47 PM
| #16 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Twinsburg
Posts: 68
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Holy Long Truck Batman!!!!!!!!!  |
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10-29-2007, 06:37 PM
| #17 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: May 2007 Location: 615
Posts: 69
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wow, that is lllloooonnnngggg, your going to need one really long drive shaft too. cant wait to see it done
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10-30-2007, 03:04 PM
| #18 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Oran, MO
Posts: 347
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If you want behind the axle steering linkage, it can be done easily. I have some pics of what I did to mine. Just let me know.
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11-04-2007, 06:31 AM
| #19 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Ohio
Posts: 414
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Thats sweet! I like it! Keep up the good work.
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11-04-2007, 08:07 AM
| #20 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 252
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WOW! You could seat on that thing and drive around town! LOL!! LOoks very nicely done!
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