HumboldtEF's LC70 SSD Trail King

[soze]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

I have not shared the headers yet but I suppose I could. I wanted to come up with the rest of the the exhaust first but I guess it would be different for each body anyway. There's just no good route to run the exhaust, it would be the easiest if it was just a side exit in the fender.

Jato I just learned a good way to do headers and pipe in fusion 360, do you use fusion 360? This video explains how better than I could: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5SxttEWOyk




Thanks.

I forgot to post the pic after swapping the yellow fog lights out and painting the indicators orange, I think it looks a lot better this way.
Old setup is on the bottom of this pic

New setup



I really need to get going on this one again, I keep picking it up and putting it down. Though I've been distracted by my new PC build and my old PC is taking up space on my work bench while I slowly transfer over what I want to keep. The weather and lack of light after work isnt helping either.

Well with all those excuses I think I'd make a great race car driver

On that note, was there some kind of deal on fusion360? I had that free usage for a while, but it's been a while and I forgot what the actual terms of use are.

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by soze

On that note, was there some kind of deal on fusion360? I had that free usage for a while, but it's been a while and I forgot what the actual terms of use are.

Its free for the hobbyist https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/f...-for-hobbyists

They did make a change recently which I didn't pay much attention to, I think they created a new license category for maybe the start up. After this change you had to re-select your license.

Looks like they've got 40% off right now but theres no need to buy the commercial license if you're just doing hobbyist stuff and not selling prints.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

I have not shared the headers yet but I suppose I could. I wanted to come up with the rest of the the exhaust first but I guess it would be different for each body anyway. There's just no good route to run the exhaust, it would be the easiest if it was just a side exit in the fender.

Jato I just learned a good way to do headers and pipe in fusion 360, do you use fusion 360? This video explains how better than I could: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5SxttEWOyk

I've used Fusion 360, but I hate it. That's only because I learned on ProE/SolidWOrks which has a different methodology to doing this. But it's great software. I use SolidWorks daily for my job and I'm lucky enough to be able to "take it home" so that's what I use for solid modeling.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I've used Fusion 360, but I hate it. That's only because I learned on ProE/SolidWOrks which has a different methodology to doing this. But it's great software. I use SolidWorks daily for my job and I'm lucky enough to be able to "take it home" so that's what I use for solid modeling.

Agree, ime Autodesk (Autocad) doesnt' care and yes I've worked with them on couple software license purchases and installs....one of the worst software companies ever to deal with and that's when we paid them thousands of dollars. It also must phone home very often and regularly. From what I've seen Solidworks is much better, but do your research before buying anything.

[Bananaclip]

Very nice rig Sir. I just started looking at the different TK builds and their is a few that really stand out. I hope you don’t mind but my TK kit should be here before the end of the week and I will be using the same LC body. I promise to do a few things different


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[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by Bananaclip

Very nice rig Sir. I just started looking at the different TK builds and their is a few that really stand out. I hope you don’t mind but my TK kit should be here before the end of the week and I will be using the same LC body. I promise to do a few things different


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Thanks, I suppose I'll allow it lol

But really, knock yourself out I dont own this idea or hold it against anyone for using this body. After all theres only so many choices.


Tiny update, I got the bed patched up and just filled the seams and holes with filler.

I found out my interior is ever so slightly in the way of my battery. I need to trim off a little bit from the underside behind the center console. I'll either cut and patch it up or maybe look for a scale item to just set on top of it.

[HumboldtEF]

Okay back to work!

I'd been staring at the killer body fender flares and they just weren't doing it for me so I grabbed some flares from Model Loops which are really what I had wanted but at the time I had already installed and cut out the fenders to fit the killer body flares. I just assumed I'd need a new cab since I cut the fenders but it turned out I only needed to patch a little corner of the fenders.

I used some scraps from the bed for the patch
thats the back side of the fender




Killerbody flares


Loops Models flares







The coverage is decent too, a bit less than the killer body flares but close enough for me to be okay with. Loops Models flares are 215mm vs the 221mm of Killerbody flares.
(the front doesnt show it properly since the 3 link has swung the body over the tire a bit as it sits)


The rear should be a better representation


They recommend either glue or screws, I decided to try screwing them on.
they are made of rubber by the way.

I grabbed some 3/8" long course thread screws


I laid out where to drill the holes on the body first and then held the flares up to the body and used the body holes to mark the holes on the flares. When I couldn't get the cordless drill in close enough I just inserted the bit, put pressure on it and spun it with needle nose pliers.
One screw was too far off the mark and I could see it was about to poke though or just bulge out the flare. I backed it out and tried another hole as its easy enough to patch the body.

The holes were under sized since its just rubber and actually holds a screw quite well. (then I went back to enlarge the holes on the body so the screws didnt split it open)


Getting the middle screw in on the rear was tight but since I'm patching holes here already I drilled an access hole so I could run a little screwdriver though


Worth noting again, these are solid rubber which means they weigh a good deal. They look great but these really arent ideal for anyone wanting a light setup. Lucky for me (or foolish) I've already given up on that as the interior and driver have already added a ton of weight

[Panther6834]

Man, those fender flares look super sweet. As far as I'm concerned, the fact that they're rubber is a huge bonus. Btw, thanks for the link. I bought the KB LC70, although I'll be installing if on a TF2...but, I'll be wanting to add those flares.

Although I haven't even started the build (the chassis, or the boost), as I'm still working on a few other projects), I do want to accumulate certain things first. One that I've been having "trouble" with is the engine. As I want 'extreme' scale, I'd prefer using a Toyota, over the "Chevy" V8...p preferably the 4.7L V8 Turbo Diesel, or the V6 Twin Turbo. Have any ideas/suggestions where I can get either/both?

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[CODYBOY]

Looking very nice Casey, are you even going to want to put this truck on the rocks when your done? If your like me, why not "I know the guy that built it"!
Ernie

[mewalsh100]

Loving these LC70 builds. Just something about that body. Utilitarian and cool all at once. Looking really good Humboldt!

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Man, those fender flares look super sweet. As far as I'm concerned, the fact that they're rubber is a huge bonus. Btw, thanks for the link. I bought the KB LC70, although I'll be installing if on a TF2...but, I'll be wanting to add those flares.

Although I haven't even started the build (the chassis, or the boost), as I'm still working on a few other projects), I do want to accumulate certain things first. One that I've been having "trouble" with is the engine. As I want 'extreme' scale, I'd prefer using a Toyota, over the "Chevy" V8...p preferably the 4.7L V8 Turbo Diesel, or the V6 Twin Turbo. Have any ideas/suggestions where I can get either/both?

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

You know i dont think I've ever seen any 1/10 scale Toyota engines beyond the 22RE's but sometimes these things are hiding in little corners of the interwebs.

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

Looking very nice Casey, are you even going to want to put this truck on the rocks when your done? If your like me, why not "I know the guy that built it"!
Ernie

Thanks Ernie!
Oh for sure, I will be driving this thing I think i'll do a semi nice paint job with some weathering. I absolutely love a weathered rig because it opens the door for you to drive it without too many concerns, scratch it up and it just adds more character.

Originally Posted by mewalsh100

Loving these LC70 builds. Just something about that body. Utilitarian and cool all at once. Looking really good Humboldt!

Thanks!
It is a really nice body for sure. I was doing a little research and was super surprised that Toyota is still making what looks like something designed in the 70's or 80's to this day (at least I think so).

[mewalsh100]

benchmark_rc on Instagram. Best scale engines I’ve seen, and he adds functional bits like fans, belts.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by mewalsh100

benchmark_rc on Instagram. Best scale engines I’ve seen, and he adds functional bits like fans, belts.

I don't, and won't, so Instagram...or Twitter, or any "social" media all, other than Facebook...and, even FB I keep to an absolute minimum (ie. RC only).

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

I don't, and won't, so Instagram...or Twitter, or any "social" media all, other than Facebook...and, even FB I keep to an absolute minimum (ie. RC only).

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Here's a social media free link to some pics https://www.google.com/search?q=benc...w=1519&bih=722

[HumboldtEF]

So my truck has a lean going to it and the axle is covered in oil on one corner, time to fix it.

I've really tried to like the SSD scale shocks but this will be the 2nd time I've pulled these shocks off a rig. I just dont like the feel after they've been assembled, almost every time I put a set together I feel like I did something wrong. I end up tearing them down and rebuilding them multiple times (green slime was always used). They just feel super stiff like the O-ring is being crushed too much, I tried a thinner O-ring stack and it leaks and still doesn't free up much, with the stock O-rings it also leaks (some do some dont). They do break in and this sticky feeling does go away after running them for a while. There's also a lack of useful spring rates available and I know I could try to swap in some other springs but I'm not going to invest in a shock I'm just not that happy with I've done that too many times already.

So my new go to is the Enduro shocks which feel amazing in terms of damping, spring rates and the initial build feel (not needing breaking in). I was stoked to see they released a black and gold version as I detest the bright blue anodizing.

Its worth noting that this new shock set does not include all of the aluminum parts that the stock sets have. The only aluminum bits are the shock body and preload adjuster, spring perch, top and bottom caps are all plastic.
I also noticed when removing the (top) cap that comes with this set theres a series of square indents in the ridge where it mates to the O-ring, seemed like an odd thing to do and like it may damage the O-rings.

I did read a long while back there was a cap from another team associated shock that has a bleeder on it, I ordered this and finally installed them on this new set of shocks.
The part number is 6441 though its discontinued but they list a replacement part 6428.

There is one caveat with these bleeder caps though, the hole for the upper mount is 4.75mm compared to the typical 6mm so the provided shock mounts dont work. Back when I read about this bleeder cap someone had suggested a part number that would allow you to mount these but I dont recall what it what or where it was posted.
I looked around and though I found something that might work https://www.associatedelectrics.com/...bushing_balls/
The bleeder caps made assembly almost foolproof, very easy. I have to wonder why bleeders aren't more common with crawlers (I can only think of some Gmade shocks)

I also looked at designing one to 3D print but the walls are just too thin to actually print let alone be strong.
I decided instead to simply drill out the cap to a 6mm mounting hole so I can use the stock mount https://www.associatedelectrics.com/...ushings_steel/
Though in doing this be very careful with letting the hole wander down as the bleeder hole is very very close to the surface of where this is drilled. if anything try to get it to wander upwards to be safe.

Another thing to note with these caps is that the shoulder is much closer to the pivot balls they mount with so they dont provide much articulation for the shock to move side to side. Though I did find it wasn't binding with the stock-ish setup I have (fronts are stock but the rear shock towers are pushed forward a bit)



Now I need to clearance the bed a tiny bit because the larger springs are just barley contacting the sides of the bed. I probably only need 1mm or so.

[HumboldtEF]

In order to get the battery to clear the body a bit better I printed up some new parts that drop front of the battery tray by 6mm. The driveshaft now pokes through the tray but this clears the actual battery by 2-3mm.





I made a little cover out of some .5mm styrene to keep the sparky bits away from the spinny bits.





This placed the driveshaft closer to the bottom of the battery tray as well so I filed a channel into it to clear the front and middle portions of it (the upper links also needed a tiny bit more clearance so I did the same for them). I always prefer to print parts with 100% infill which comes in handy for when a part requires modifications. Otherwise if infill is used you'll end up cutting through the outer perimeter making parts ugly and weaker.



Bottom side of the battery tray


Then just so I had the most clearance I could get I heated up the bottom corner of the interior and pushed it in (up out of the way).





Oh and heres the new Enduro shocks in relation to the bed, I still need to do something to get some more clearance here.
I showed this rig to a buddy whos not an RC guy and he saw the shocks poking though the bed and said "thats pretty cool" which I though was a refreshing take on it. I let him know that scale guys really dont like this sort of thing and that is sort of a unspoken rule to avoid it. But I'm really starting to reconsider covering it because I try not to follow the heard too closely. He also mentioned that maybe having a bit of cage work that ties into the shock towers might look cool so I may explore that concept.


I think I'll be cutting off the "bumper" portion of the bed and designing something to print that will be a lot more stout and can drag on the rocks without any worries of snagging or breaking.

[HumboldtEF]

I finally got some rear body mounts designed and printed.

I'll be using the same ring magnets (N48 neodymium magnets) as the front is using. I wanted this mount to add some structure to the bed so its a bit over the top design wise.



chassis mount


This piece printed in 3 parts, the main structure, the body posts and the ring that retains the magnet. I did this so the print would be a better quality (no supports).





I've been using these little mock ups of the magnets for well... mocking things up. Its easier than working with the magnets which like to get lost in the process.


I learned a lesson about the flex plate and flexing it to remove a print: be careful you aren't breaking the item as you flex it!
I broke this one in the process of removing it


I was able to get some more room for the shocks to clear the bed by carving a bit off of the shock towers. The shock body was hitting the shock tower which kept it from moving inward on the eyelet.



Now it clears by a few millimeter



Heres how the body sits now. The rear springs are a bit on the stiff side so it sits a little high.

[HumboldtEF]

Rear bumper time, I cut off the rear valance.




I designed a bumper thats a similar shape and can re-use the tail lights. I added in a trailer hitch receiver simply to break up the flat space in the middle of the bumper, I dont plan on using it.



In order to make something strong I opted not to use the tail light buckets.


If I did use those the thickness of the bumper would have been less than ideal at the tail light section.
So I came up with a system to retain them and house a single LED (on each side).

I also sanded off the lip on the top and bottom of the lense in order to have more strength/material at the tail light. This leaves a lip on each side.



The lens slides into this slot, and is then pushed forward into place.



Then a retainer slides in behind it to keep the lens located. this retainer also sections off just the brake light section of the lens.



I'm happy with the design, it matches the original valance profile.

Side note I had assumed this valance was the bumper but its not, an actual bumper would be installed below it which just looks odd, like its a double bumper.
EDIT: actually it doesnt look too bad but it does hang lower than I want.




The bumper only projects out 1-2mm past the tailgate, close to stock (stock is set back a touch).



The bumper was about a 7 hour print, I used PETG and 100% infill. In the middle of the bumper I modeled in some hollow space (tubes) to bring the weight down a tiny bit and add strength.

[ferebeed]

That’s sweet. Nice job man


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[durok]

That rear bumper with its tail lights and their retainers is a friggin' masterpiece.

On the one hand there's having a 3d-printer and printing yourself existing items...

On the other hand there's also designing and engineering solutions that you then print!

If you ever decide to retire from whatever it is you do for a living, I firmly believe you could start a company creating scale parts for R/C and be successful.