Bob & Doug Mckenzie's King Richard Petty Truck

[Postclanker]

[QUOTE=CODYBOY;5972341]

Originally Posted by Postclanker

Thank you Youngman I usually make a couple trips a month up to Kelly's (Lunsford) to talk tiny trucks and solve all the worldly problems. Maybe we can get together on one of those trips.
Ernie

I would enjoy that immensely.....
Give me 24 hours notice...i’m there

[CODYBOY]

I will do that!

I received a few SSD parts the other day, and one was his new portal weights. They look and fit very nice.



Here are the extended rear shock towers painted and installed.





Much better stance.



They match the design of the new front SSD towers that clearance the motor for headers. I'll get to them later, working on some axle orders this week.

Ernie

[HumboldtEF]

Yes much better, thats the stance I want!

I'm curious what the purpose of the extended shock towers are? I know it essentially lowers the suspension, is that all you're after with those?

EDIT: I realized on my drive home from work that you're likely doing this because of the rear portals. I guess I'm still curious how this would work on a rig without the rear portal axle.

The reason I ask is that I'd like to drop the rear of my Trail king as well since it has so little weight on the rear and sits pretty high. Though I'm worried that just raising the shock mounts in the rear only would have some unintended effects (not sure what though). I was trying to think of a way to get more droop in the rear suspension while keeping the same stiffness of springs which doesn't seem doable without running internal springs unless I just lower the suspension.
So would simply raising the shock mounts (to lower the suspension) be the best solution for this?

Sorry for the long winded explanation.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

Yes much better, thats the stance I want!

I'm curious what the purpose of the extended shock towers are? I know it essentially lowers the suspension, is that all you're after with those?

EDIT: I realized on my drive home from work that you're likely doing this because of the rear portals. I guess I'm still curious how this would work on a rig without the rear portal axle.

The reason I ask is that I'd like to drop the rear of my Trail king as well since it has so little weight on the rear and sits pretty high. Though I'm worried that just raising the shock mounts in the rear only would have some unintended effects (not sure what though). I was trying to think of a way to get more droop in the rear suspension while keeping the same stiffness of springs which doesn't seem doable without running internal springs unless I just lower the suspension.
So would simply raising the shock mounts (to lower the suspension) be the best solution for this?

Sorry for the long winded explanation.

The portasl raised the rear even a little more so it kind of looked like it was jacked up a little. I don't think there would be any down side to you doing it to your truck.

I received a cool package from Casey last week and had some time to put some of the goodies that were in it on my truck. Here is my new between the rails battery tray.

New rear cross member for clearance.





A 3200 3s fits in there very nice!!!



Some photos from the bottom.





This gives you a little perspective with the body on. Can you picture the Nukizer with a King Richard paint job?







That all for tonight folks.
Ernie

[soze]

I'm going to have to print one of those battery trays out! I ordered the Prusa Mini. Probably won't get it until next year though :\

The build is looking great, and now you're tempting me to build it. I don't think I can handle 3 simultaneous builds though...

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by soze

I'm going to have to print one of those battery trays out! I ordered the Prusa Mini. Probably won't get it until next year though :\

The build is looking great, and now you're tempting me to build it. I don't think I can handle 3 simultaneous builds though...

Thanks, and come on soze, I envision you as a great multitasking kind of builder!
Ernie

[indybama]

This rig is comin along beautifully ernie. The batt tray fits like a glove n nice n low. That nuk body is goina look pretty sweet, cant wait to see some color

Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

The portasl raised the rear even a little more so it kind of looked like it was jacked up a little. I don't think there would be any down side to you doing it to your truck.


SNIP


This gives you a little perspective with the body on. Can you picture the Nukizer with a King Richard paint job?


That all for tonight folks.
Ernie

Looking good Ernie! I'm glad that mount fit the Diamond axle.



I had to look up some Richard Petty cars to refresh my memory but now I can imagine what the Nukizer might look like, it should be a real looker. It must have an STP sticker!

I was thinking a bit more about my question and I think I would have some major body rub issues considering that the body would be sitting low while the rear suspension is close to full extension. So as it compresses it will hit the body before it has a chance to get close to full compression.

I guess I'll need to play around with some internal springs (or softer springs) after all.

[Postclanker]

Richard Petty colors are classic, perfect compliments on the color wheel and immediately noticeable.

When I first started in rc they were my choice of colors....many of 12-scale and F-1 on roaders. maybe I can find an old pic that I could somehow post here....

Your truck stance is perfect sir . Curious to know who’s drive shafts you’re using? They are really clean

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by Postclanker

SNIP
Curious to know who’s drive shafts you’re using? They are really clean

Those should be the stock driveshafts that come with the Trail king, same as their scale driveshafts.
They come in various lengths https://www.rpphobby.com/SearchResul...ale+driveshaft

And they are very nice, I wasn't sold on them until I had them in front of me they're very smooth and solid feeling.

[Postclanker]

Perfect Mr. Humboldt".
Thanks for the link

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by Postclanker

Perfect Mr. Humboldt".
Thanks for the link

Thanks Casey, I've been busy working on a couple axle mock ups for design orders.
Ernie

[CODYBOY]

So as you guys know by now I put a SSD portal axle on the rear of the King Richard. Like I said earlier SSD sent me some of their new alum axle tubes, alum portal housings, a Diamond housing and a few other parts. I must say the quality of these parts is right up there with most all of the parts they make. Thanks Katan and Chris!
Now moving on, I was talking with a member about the rear portal and the idea that it is 8.4" from outside of hex to outside of hex. He shared that he likes the idea of the portal, but was to wide to work with his build. My wheels had already been turning thinking about this. And we both kind of had the same idea on how to narrow these a little without to many problems so here is what I came up with.

Here is the parts I started with.





A rear SSD portal axle kit and SSD's front AR44 metal axle tubes.

As always I'm going to try and show you how I managed to marry all the parts together. By the way, the Mc Kenzie brothers didn't want me to share
"you designed these on our time, make them pay for it!' So don't tell them I did this.

First I turned down the metal front axle tubes down so the portal housings will fit on them.



Along with turning them down, I shortened them 1/8". Now the axle shafts are to long so they need to be shortened. So I scored them on the lathe as to the new length needed and where I need to move the tang to.



I like to use the old tang as a guide to how much material I need to remove.



You can see the tang length before I cut it. I was just checking the new tang for fitment.



Next I needed to remove the 2 bearing flanges so the axles slide all the way through the front metal housings.



Here is the rest of the axle parts along with the ones I machined.



Here you can see how much I narrowed the metal tubes.





Stock portal width and modified width. 8.4" and 7.2" outside of hex to outside of hex.





Stock



Modified



Thanks for looking, and I will answer any questions if you want to try it!!
Ernie

[Topher Builds]

That’s great Ernie! The width of the rear portal axle always seemed to be an obstacle with this type of build when I’d consider it in my head so it’s really cool to see you putting the work in to change it.

Well done.

How’s the width now compare to your trail king front axle?

[carpetfuzz17]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

So as you guys know by now I put a SSD portal axle on the rear of the King Richard. Like I said earlier SSD sent me some of their new alum axle tubes, alum portal housings, a Diamond housing and a few other parts. I must say the quality of these parts is right up there with most all of the parts they make. Thanks Katan and Chris!
Now moving on, I was talking with a member about the rear portal and the idea that it is 8.4" from outside of hex to outside of hex. He shared that he likes the idea of the portal, but was to wide to work with his build. My wheels had already been turning thinking about this. And we both kind of had the same idea on how to narrow these a little without to many problems so here is what I came up with.

Here is the parts I started with.





A rear SSD portal axle kit and SSD's front AR44 metal axle tubes.

As always I'm going to try and show you how I managed to marry all the parts together. By the way, the Mc Kenzie brothers didn't want me to share
"you designed these on our time, make them pay for it!' So don't tell them I did this.

First I turned down the metal front axle tubes down so the portal housings will fit on them.



Along with turning them down, I shortened them 1/8". Now the axle shafts are to long so they need to be shortened. So I scored them on the lathe as to the new length needed and where I need to move the tang to.



I like to use the old tang as a guide to how much material I need to remove.



You can see the tang length before I cut it. I was just checking the new tang for fitment.



Next I needed to remove the 2 bearing flanges so the axles slide all the way through the front metal housings.



Here is the rest of the axle parts along with the ones I machined.



Here you can see how much I narrowed the metal tubes.





Stock portal width and modified width. 8.4" and 7.2" outside of hex to outside of hex.





Stock



Modified



Thanks for looking, and I will answer any questions if you want to try it!!
Ernie

That right there is some top shelf workmanship . I think SSD might be asking for the parts back after this axle so they can copy it

[HumboldtEF]

Nice work Ernie!

Originally Posted by Topher Builds

How’s the width now compare to your trail king front axle?

The Trail King is 7 1/2" hex to hex

[Topher Builds]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

Nice work Ernie!




The Trail King is 7 1/2" hex to hex

Thank ya

[CODYBOY]

OK, axle is going to MR carpetfuzz17 in the morning for his Trail King .
Thanks Mark!!
Ernie

[carpetfuzz17]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

OK, axle is going to MR carpetfuzz17 in the morning for his Trail King .

Thanks Mark!!

Ernie

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Postclanker]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

OK, axle is going to MR carpetfuzz17 in the morning for his Trail King .
Thanks Mark!!
Ernie

WHAT? You gave it up? Oh my