Pinion/Spur mesh?
 

Hey all-

I'm working through My TK build (loving EVERY aspect of it so far!) but I'm feeling a bit twitchy about getting the spur/pinion mesh set properly..

To those of you that built one of the transmissions before - any tips for getting the mesh set properly?

When you change motors, do you remove the motor mount plate or pull the whole tranny?

It doesn't help my case any that I'm using a Revolver for the fist time so it's making tough for me to define how resistance there is in the driveline since the motor is resistant to free-spinning and I can't hear the mesh over the scream of the motor...

Re: Pinion/Spur mesh?
 

Hmm. Maybe attach a driveshaft to the transmission output and try spinning that way. When connecting the pieces together to check the mesh, just use a couple screws (on step 17) and not tighten them all the way down, makes it a little less work to get back to the motor mount.

You can sort of get a gut check on the mesh in step 18 when you seat the shaft in the bearing, although it without the rest of it connected will wiggle.

For me it was trial and error but only took a couple tries to get a good mesh. Kinda flying blind here as I’m sure you’ve experienced.

Re: Pinion/Spur mesh?
 

To make this easier you can do this before greasing the spur gear, grease can make it harder to hear and feel.

I was able to get as good sense for the mesh with just the spur gear loosely in place at step 18. The spur gear slides into a bearing seat so if you hold it in place at this point you can check the mesh you may end up with. I phrase it like that because I would still check after its assembled.
After its assembled you can feel it out, just spin the outside of the revolver motor (a handy feature at times). If you spin it very gently you can feel the point it contacts the pinion so it will hit one side and you should feel and hear it make contact. Then spin it the other direction to gauge the slack between them. I find its easier to start tight and open it up incrementally until you have some play.

This setup isn't nearly as difficult as the GCM racing scale tranny which you need to feel and listen to set mesh, the spur isn't held in place enough to predict mesh at all its truly a guessing game with that one.

Re: Pinion/Spur mesh?
 

Yeah, what you guys have said makes sense and that's more or less what I've done. Went for a gut-feeling check on the initial build and then I've been trying to do just as you said - feel the mesh using the contact points on the gears - I wish I'd thought to dial this in before I greased the gears because that would've made it much easier to feel/hear the mesh..

I think I've got it set pretty well now, I guess I'll just have to slap the electronics in and fire it up for some testing..

That's nutty that you say the GCM trans is even trickier! This is my first foray into the "more scale than an rbk 10.2 or an sbk Venture" world so I'm learning heaps as I go here..

And thanks for the replies - I'm so glad I can come here for help and stay away from the BS is that is FB...

Re: Pinion/Spur mesh?
 

Old thread, I know :) But here is my recommendation how to set mesh. I think SSD understand how tricky it could be, so tried to make it easy by adding small "window" to visually observe mesh. So here what I did and better to do it without any grease:
1. You need first 3 plastic peaces from transmission, 32T / 14T gears on shaft (one that mate with pinion), two bearings for it
2. Install pinion and motor, make it tight but still available for movement motor in motor plate.
3. Install first plastic transmission peace and screw with 2 screws into metal motor plate.
4. Install second plastic peace and use 2 screws to hold it. This plastic peace have small cut out in location of bearing for next shaft to visually observer the mesh.
5. Install third plastic peace with bearing to keep 32T/14T gear shaft in place. Screw with two screws.
6. Visually observe mesh through special "window", move motor to archive desire mesh. You can use screwdriver to move 32T/14T back and forth to check.
7. After satisfied results, remove two screws holding plastic part to motor plate, tight motor, put everything back and recheck mesh.

After I figure out how easy to do it, setting mesh is not a problem anymore.