Trail King headers (STL files)

[HumboldtEF]

SSD Trail King Exhaust Headers https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4189347





I just wanted to put up a link for anyone who has a printer.


This requires that you have the aluminum shock towers to clear the headers. Its also made for the 23mm engine spacer which also raises it, I dont know if these will work with the stock and 15mm locations. I have a feeling they should clear the chassis rails since along with lowering them they shift everything back.


It also requires four 1.5mm screw to mount to the block.

[Topher Builds]

Nice work! Thank you for sharing as well. They look great.

[B-MOW71]

Great looking design!

Thanks for sharing!

[JatoTheRipper]

Nice! Thanks for sharing again!

[JacktheRipper]

Having the tubes and collector follow the frame rail angle would really help the placement and scale look .

Sharp addition to what is there now

pep

[QuesoDelDiablo]

Another excellent share, thanks!

I'll be getting a set of these printed today and test fitted tonight - I'm using the 15mm spacer so I'll post back about fitment when I can..

[soze]

Excellent work! This is going on my current build... which I so far have neglected to post here. I'm so behind.

[Markeje]

Originally Posted by JacktheRipper

Having the tubes and collector follow the frame rail angle would really help the placement and scale look .

Sharp addition to what is there now

pep

For sure. They need to angle down at the collector. Now, we need the rest of the exhaust that runs clear out to the back.

[Shinchu]

whats the OD of the collector? maybe one could bend up some brake tubes to finish the exhaust? or heat/bend styrene rod? shouldn't be that hard to do.

heck now i wanna try lol like this was the deciding factor hahaha
i still want a king but just not sure what i would build.

Casey do you think it would be hard to prime/sand/repeat to get the header smooth? i would paint mine maybe with my trusty molotow chrome paint pen and maybe dry-brush some heat discoloration. that's just me though. if i had an RC with a scale engine i'd have to go all-in.

[HumboldtEF]

Happy to help guys.

Originally Posted by JacktheRipper

Having the tubes and collector follow the frame rail angle would really help the placement and scale look .

Sharp addition to what is there now

pep

Originally Posted by Markeje

For sure. They need to angle down at the collector. Now, we need the rest of the exhaust that runs clear out to the back.

Okay when I get a chance I'll try to get another version that follows the angle of the chassis rails. I originally struggled with this design so I didn't really want to make any changes back then but hopefully now I can better handle the redesign. Designing tubing and pipe is still fairly challenging for me right now.

Originally Posted by Shinchu

whats the OD of the collector? maybe one could bend up some brake tubes to finish the exhaust? or heat/bend styrene rod? shouldn't be that hard to do.

heck now i wanna try lol like this was the deciding factor hahaha
i still want a king but just not sure what i would build.

Casey do you think it would be hard to prime/sand/repeat to get the header smooth? i would paint mine maybe with my trusty molotow chrome paint pen and maybe dry-brush some heat discoloration. that's just me though. if i had an RC with a scale engine i'd have to go all-in.

I'll have to double check the OD on the collector and get back to you. I did imagine that folks would make the rest of the exhaust themselves out of either styrene or more printed parts but some brake line should work too.
I will say that the routing of the exhaust still puzzles me, there just doesn't seem to be an obvious route. I'm still at a loss as to how it would be completed without cheating and having it stop at the transfer case and pick up behind it.

As for sanding and cleaning this up it could be done though getting in all the nooks and crannies will be tough. You might consider having it printed by Jawstec (or shapeways) using their SLS process which would give more of a grainy sandy finish, this finish looks very similar to a cast manifold would and lacks the lines that FDM printers have (FDM is the most common 3D printer type)
EDIT: I just remembered there another methed of Vapor smoothing using a tub of acetone which melts and smooths out the surface.

[Markeje]

We have I believe a hind end printer at work. The 23mm.spacer came out like glass in gray. It's like a liquid. I don6 know much about them obviously.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[QuesoDelDiablo]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

EDIT: I just remembered there another methed of Vapor smoothing using a tub of acetone which melts and smooths out the surface.

The vapor smoothing only works on ABS and it's a pretty high-risk operation. Really easy to blow yourself up if anything goes wrong. Acetone fumes are nasty nasty stuff. And ABS is stinky to print..

For anyone that's looking non-abrasive or chemical smoothing processes I recommend they look into PVB. PVB can smoothed using a dip or wipe with isopropyl alcohol. No fumes..


Also, there's a couple update shots of my radiator/fan shroud attached for you viewing pleasure..

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by QuesoDelDiablo

The vapor smoothing only works on ABS and it's a pretty high-risk operation. Really easy to blow yourself up if anything goes wrong. Acetone fumes are nasty nasty stuff. And ABS is stinky to print..

For anyone that's looking non-abrasive or chemical smoothing processes I recommend they look into PVB. PVB can smoothed using a dip or wipe with isopropyl alcohol. No fumes..


Also, there's a couple update shots of my radiator/fan shroud attached for you viewing pleasure..

Thanks for the input, I've never tried the vapor smoothing method and probably never would have but now I definitely wont.

Your shroud came out nice

[HumboldtEF]

Okay I had some time to go back and angle down the end of the header. First I tried to start over and that was a ton of work so I opted to just keep the original an angle it down after the collector.
I'm still printing the part out now but here's the model.




I also checked the OD and its 9.1mm (7mm ID)

Once the print is done and I can verify its okay I'll upload this new version to Thingiverse. I just eyeballed the angle so we'll see how good that went after I get it installed.

[soze]

Nice Casey!

I'm still waiting for my Mini. 5 months and counting! I'm wondering if I should've just ponied up for the MK3s. Anyway, it should be shipping within the next few weeks.... supposedly. It was supposed to be shipped the middle of last month, then it got changed to 3/30, but no signs of any shipment yet.

What filament are you guys using? I saw some Overture PETG on Amazon. Should be fine?

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by soze

Nice Casey!

I'm still waiting for my Mini. 5 months and counting! I'm wondering if I should've just ponied up for the MK3s. Anyway, it should be shipping within the next few weeks.... supposedly. It was supposed to be shipped the middle of last month, then it got changed to 3/30, but no signs of any shipment yet.

What filament are you guys using? I saw some Overture PETG on Amazon. Should be fine?

Shoot that is a long wait, hopefully you get it soon.


I honestly haven't tried too many brands just Prusament and Push Plastic. Push Plastic comes from Amain which is convenient. I've had good luck with both of those brands. PLA is nice to have too, its much easier to print well and clean up is much quicker.


The first version had a good angle but I decided to do a 2nd to move the bend forward (to start sooner).




EDIT: here's the print installed



I should have it uploaded after work today.

[cyberhog05]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

SSD Trail King Exhaust Headers https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4189347





I just wanted to put up a link for anyone who has a printer.


This requires that you have the aluminum shock towers to clear the headers. Its also made for the 23mm engine spacer which also raises it, I dont know if these will work with the stock and 15mm locations. I have a feeling they should clear the chassis rails since along with lowering them they shift everything back.


It also requires four 1.5mm screw to mount to the block.

Thank you for doing this man. I appreciate your work

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[HumboldtEF]

No problem.

I just realized I forgot to upload the updated version, its up now.

same link
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4189347