RCCrawler Forums

John-e Bravada · 10-24-2011, 05:59 PM

What servo arms are those?

Abavuso · 10-24-2011, 08:37 PM

They are hobby king brand. Cheep too.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

monkeyracer · 10-25-2011, 07:24 AM

Why did you end up with the 1201mg's instead of the 1501mg's? the 1501s are the same price and more torque.

I wouldn't call that a 50C battery. It's a 25C battery with a burst 50C rating. It's not going to sustain 50C for more than a few seconds. It will give you 32.5A consistently but will allow small bursts of 65A. I hope that's enough to give you what you need. I probably would have gone for the highest C rated 1300mAh battery they had to make sure there was more than enough power for this thing.

I'm tired of seeing this thing in pieces on my workbench. I need to get mine going so we can crawl together soon!

Abavuso · 10-25-2011, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

Why did you end up with the 1201mg's instead of the 1501mg's? the 1501s are the same price and more torque.

I wouldn't call that a 50C battery. It's a 25C battery with a burst 50C rating. It's not going to sustain 50C for more than a few seconds. It will give you 32.5A consistently but will allow small bursts of 65A. I hope that's enough to give you what you need. I probably would have gone for the highest C rated 1300mAh battery they had to make sure there was more than enough power for this thing.

I'm tired of seeing this thing in pieces on my workbench. I need to get mine going so we can crawl together soon!

I guess I have alot to learn about Lipo. I thought they were a 50C rating. As for the servo, I found the other ones like a day after I placed my order so, go figure.

monkeyracer · 10-25-2011, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abavuso

I guess I have alot to learn about Lipo. I thought they were a 50C rating. As for the servo, I found the other ones like a day after I placed my order so, go figure.

I learned a lot of info on LiPo from this forum as well as a few other sites.

I found it interesting that a 20C 3000mAh has more amperage capability than a 40C 1300mAh battery (until I did the math) so now I actually do the math when I look to buy a new battery.

I'm looking at the 1501's for my build since I have a couple of them for other builds that have held up just fine.

Abavuso · 11-04-2011, 07:52 PM

Alright so I was able to take the parts that finaly showed up and make some adjustment to the rig that I took away from her first real comp!!!!

I'll tell you what, she feel a whole lot better now...

Some MUST changes!!!

Shock oil - 30W
Springs - I used the silver stock LOSI MRC springs in the rear and orange Losi Mini-T Springs up front. This this sits like a dream not. Just the right amount of rebound and flex!!!! I think it's going to be awesome on sunday. That is if the driver doesn't get stupid!!!!

I also go the 4 new servos and the 10T pinions installed!!!

The 10T pinions reduce the wheel speed but drasticaly eliminates the bogging. I'm sure once I pack her with a 4S lipo and run a few test, I'll find that she's got the right amound of wheel speed and plenty of torque!!!

Here's some photos.

John-e Bravada · 11-05-2011, 11:04 AM

I wondered if Mini-T springs would work on MT shocks, thanks for trying it. I have some left over from the Bully build. I think I'll mod the caps and use them when I get back to the new chassis. I love your servo mounts but the tierod does look like low hanging fruit....

ekd · 11-05-2011, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John-e Bravada

I love your servo mounts but the tierod does look like low hanging fruit....

I often wonder why I haven't seen tierods, when out front, sleeved with a thin tube so they become rollers.

BentMetaL · 11-05-2011, 02:22 PM

I use a piece of 1/4" delrin and since changed the aluminum center mount to 1/4" delrin. Mounted the link on top of the knuckles. Used some bumper rod to make bushing for the link ends. Works sweet. I've tested it on all kinds of hammering situations and haven't broken anything. My last post shows a close up of the link connection to the knuckle.

Abavuso · 11-05-2011, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John-e Bravada

I wondered if Mini-T springs would work on MT shocks, thanks for trying it. I have some left over from the Bully build. I think I'll mod the caps and use them when I get back to the new chassis. I love your servo mounts but the tierod does look like low hanging fruit....

Suprisingly enough, the tyrod dosent get in the way too often, It's just temporay till I finish it like the rear is.

Almost forgot, the 10T pinion and the 4S lipo!!! Golden, no more binding issues!!!

monkeyracer · 11-05-2011, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abavuso

Suprisingly enough, the tyrod dosent get in the way too often, It's just temporay till I finish it like the rear is.

Almost forgot, the 10T pinion and the 4S lipo!!! Golden, no more binding issues!!!

Good luck at the comp! Let us know how it does.

rockeater · 11-10-2011, 02:31 AM

Just read all this and for the money it seems to be not bad I like the orange

Abavuso · 11-10-2011, 07:39 AM

Here's my official opinion. The MT can be an awesome comp rig... I've no dout in that. This last comp with the changes I made, this thing ran like a champ on 4S Lipo. It's made me rethink the way I have the stearking programed and will need to do some fine tuning on the eletronics but other then that, 55T motor on 10 or 12 T pinion with a 4S lipo... it has gobs of power. The only down fall at this point, it needs CVD's it increase the stearing radious. The lack of stearing cost me big time while trying to grip the ledge! I think we've got a winner on our hands.

asw27x · 11-10-2011, 08:13 AM

nice man how long are the stock shafts and maybe xr shafts

Abavuso · 11-10-2011, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asw27x

nice man how long are the stock shafts and maybe xr shafts

They are just the stock shocks... I think 4.5inches long hole to hole.

monkeyracer · 11-10-2011, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abavuso

They are just the stock shocks... I think 4.5inches long hole to hole.

I think he meant the stock axle shafts.

Abavuso · 11-11-2011, 03:47 PM

Oh, the XR shfts are a touch too short. It would be awesome if they fit though.

Abavuso · 11-12-2011, 08:03 AM

So last night I did a little tuning... main goal was to lower the COG. To accomplish this I'm going to run Droop in the front internally sprung with some small springs. I also took two yard stick and and drilled holes in them at 18.5 inches. I thought I was on but apparently I was 1/2 of and inch off. so I added the extra 1/2 inch to the rear to keep the frame forward design.

It's kinda coo set up this way, if I had 8 inch wheels on this puppie, I could totally drive it upside down

.

After all the changes, I was cruising around the garage climbing over some junk I piled up and it did feel much more stable but my recessed battery plate would catch on an edge and keep me from sliding off back wards. I think I need to have the lower brace raised up so I can tuck my 1/8th in battery plat up into the chassis so it doesn't hang up. I also clocked the motors almost level to help keep the COG low. I don't think my extream clocking was really necessary.

Abavuso · 11-12-2011, 07:43 PM

Here's some photo's of the changes I did last night and a little video climbing up the steps!!!
Video - http://s757.photobucket.com/albums/x...=VIDEO0026.mp4

Droop in the front

Extended the rear

18.5in WB

On its lid!!!!

Weight W/4S Lipo - 7LBS 13OZ

monkeyracer · 11-12-2011, 09:31 PM

I've always liked droop suspension for the low COG, but a lot of guys shun it since most people don't take the time to tune it to their driving style. It's not for high speed, but when do these things see any high speed? You just have to be careful of extreme side climbs were there's a chance the suspension can "unload" on you and the whole vehicle flips over.

I'm liking the changes. I didn't think I needed much clock on mine, so I was just going for the 19* that you can get just rotating the tubes, but I'm still going to mod the tubes to use replaceable C-Hubs.

I just ordered some aluminum shocks for mine, and am trying to find a spare minute or two to work on the vehicle. The big thing that will hold me up is the radio, but I can just use the punk dig set up until I get the new radio.

Hope to be able to crawl together soon!

How are the servos working out for you?

11-04-2011, 07:52 PM	#266
Abavuso RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co Posts: 1,441	Springs and adjustments!!! Alright so I was able to take the parts that finaly showed up and make some adjustment to the rig that I took away from her first real comp!!!! I'll tell you what, she feel a whole lot better now... Some MUST changes!!! Shock oil - 30W Springs - I used the silver stock LOSI MRC springs in the rear and orange Losi Mini-T Springs up front. This this sits like a dream not. Just the right amount of rebound and flex!!!! I think it's going to be awesome on sunday. That is if the driver doesn't get stupid!!!! I also go the 4 new servos and the 10T pinions installed!!! The 10T pinions reduce the wheel speed but drasticaly eliminates the bogging. I'm sure once I pack her with a 4S lipo and run a few test, I'll find that she's got the right amound of wheel speed and plenty of torque!!! Here's some photos.

11-05-2011, 02:22 PM	#269
BentMetaL Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Antioch by a rock! Posts: 457	I use a piece of 1/4" delrin and since changed the aluminum center mount to 1/4" delrin. Mounted the link on top of the knuckles. Used some bumper rod to make bushing for the link ends. Works sweet. I've tested it on all kinds of hammering situations and haven't broken anything. My last post shows a close up of the link connection to the knuckle. Attached Images

10-24-2011, 05:59 PM	#261
John-e Bravada Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Oregon IL Posts: 130	What servo arms are those?

10-24-2011, 08:37 PM	#262
Abavuso RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co Posts: 1,441	They are hobby king brand. Cheep too. Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

10-25-2011, 07:24 AM	#263
monkeyracer I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden Posts: 2,588	Why did you end up with the 1201mg's instead of the 1501mg's? the 1501s are the same price and more torque. I wouldn't call that a 50C battery. It's a 25C battery with a burst 50C rating. It's not going to sustain 50C for more than a few seconds. It will give you 32.5A consistently but will allow small bursts of 65A. I hope that's enough to give you what you need. I probably would have gone for the highest C rated 1300mAh battery they had to make sure there was more than enough power for this thing. I'm tired of seeing this thing in pieces on my workbench. I need to get mine going so we can crawl together soon!

11-05-2011, 11:04 AM	#267
John-e Bravada Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Oregon IL Posts: 130	I wondered if Mini-T springs would work on MT shocks, thanks for trying it. I have some left over from the Bully build. I think I'll mod the caps and use them when I get back to the new chassis. I love your servo mounts but the tierod does look like low hanging fruit....

11-10-2011, 02:31 AM	#272
rockeater Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: mountains of ca Posts: 317	Just read all this and for the money it seems to be not bad I like the orange

11-10-2011, 07:39 AM	#273
Abavuso RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co Posts: 1,441	Here's my official opinion. The MT can be an awesome comp rig... I've no dout in that. This last comp with the changes I made, this thing ran like a champ on 4S Lipo. It's made me rethink the way I have the stearking programed and will need to do some fine tuning on the eletronics but other then that, 55T motor on 10 or 12 T pinion with a 4S lipo... it has gobs of power. The only down fall at this point, it needs CVD's it increase the stearing radious. The lack of stearing cost me big time while trying to grip the ledge! I think we've got a winner on our hands.

11-10-2011, 08:13 AM	#274
asw27x RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Ringwood Posts: 1,233	nice man how long are the stock shafts and maybe xr shafts

11-11-2011, 03:47 PM	#277
Abavuso RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co Posts: 1,441	Oh, the XR shfts are a touch too short. It would be awesome if they fit though.

11-12-2011, 08:03 AM	#278
Abavuso RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co Posts: 1,441	So last night I did a little tuning... main goal was to lower the COG. To accomplish this I'm going to run Droop in the front internally sprung with some small springs. I also took two yard stick and and drilled holes in them at 18.5 inches. I thought I was on but apparently I was 1/2 of and inch off. so I added the extra 1/2 inch to the rear to keep the frame forward design. It's kinda coo set up this way, if I had 8 inch wheels on this puppie, I could totally drive it upside down . After all the changes, I was cruising around the garage climbing over some junk I piled up and it did feel much more stable but my recessed battery plate would catch on an edge and keep me from sliding off back wards. I think I need to have the lower brace raised up so I can tuck my 1/8th in battery plat up into the chassis so it doesn't hang up. I also clocked the motors almost level to help keep the COG low. I don't think my extream clocking was really necessary.

11-12-2011, 07:43 PM	#279
Abavuso RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co Posts: 1,441	Here's some photo's of the changes I did last night and a little video climbing up the steps!!! Video - http://s757.photobucket.com/albums/x...=VIDEO0026.mp4 Droop in the front Extended the rear 18.5in WB On its lid!!!! Weight W/4S Lipo - 7LBS 13OZ

Sponsored Links

11-12-2011, 09:31 PM	#280
monkeyracer I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Golden Posts: 2,588	I've always liked droop suspension for the low COG, but a lot of guys shun it since most people don't take the time to tune it to their driving style. It's not for high speed, but when do these things see any high speed? You just have to be careful of extreme side climbs were there's a chance the suspension can "unload" on you and the whole vehicle flips over. I'm liking the changes. I didn't think I needed much clock on mine, so I was just going for the 19* that you can get just rotating the tubes, but I'm still going to mod the tubes to use replaceable C-Hubs. I just ordered some aluminum shocks for mine, and am trying to find a spare minute or two to work on the vehicle. The big thing that will hold me up is the radio, but I can just use the punk dig set up until I get the new radio. Hope to be able to crawl together soon! How are the servos working out for you?

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