Super Experiment... :&

[Abavuso]

Originally Posted by ERV JR

I was hoping for someone to point the advantage of one over the other . I am clueless really. It looks like the Max stone could use 2.2 wheels and tires and alot of AX10 stuff. As for the tires for the mad torque are there any out of the box tires sized for the rig or is cutting and gluing required for one of these ? Also Are the tires the tires that come on the mad torque decent if I change the foam and weight the wheels or are they too short in dia for the lenght of the rig ?

There's other option if you change wheels size, the cutting and gluing is just what we do for the comp rigs becuase there arn't a lot of really good comp tires on the 40 series realm that give you 7 + inches in hight for the tire.

[BentMetaL]

Originally Posted by ERV JR

I was hoping for someone to point the advantage of one over the other . I am clueless really. It looks like the Max stone could use 2.2 wheels and tires and alot of AX10 stuff. As for the tires for the mad torque are there any out of the box tires sized for the rig or is cutting and gluing required for one of these ? Also Are the tires the tires that come on the mad torque decent if I change the foam and weight the wheels or are they too short in dia for the lenght of the rig ?

If do not plan to comp, you could look at my thread. I'm using Imex Rubicons (7"+) a set of 4 will cost you about $60+ on Maximizer wheels (3.2's). If you buy the green ones with the 17MM hubs, $15.00 a pair. these tires hook up good with starred foams or Wally World foam pillow foams.

[Abavuso]

Nothing Fancy, Just crusing around the kitchen to show how much stering you can get with this modification. She'll be going to her first comp tomarow with the modification so we shall see how she does. I think the only thing I really need at this point is some knuckle weights. This rig will stear further than I have it set to, unfortuatly my crapy servos don't push it to it's full potential. Looks like I need to start saving $$$ for new servos now that this thing actualy drives like it's supose to.

Video - Super :: VIDEO0039.mp4 video by adambavuso - Photobucket

[666]

Tomorrow will be about driving, it won't be about weight!

[monkeyracer]

That steering is looking good! Can't wait to hear how the new set-up works for you tomorrow. I am planning on ordering (hopefully) the last few parts to get mine together. Still have lots of tire gluing to do, but I'm starting to lean toward enlarging some 2.2s...

[asw27x]

ok now i really want one of these

i need to get my 2 i have straightened out first LOL

[Abavuso]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

That steering is looking good! Can't wait to hear how the new set-up works for you tomorrow. I am planning on ordering (hopefully) the last few parts to get mine together. Still have lots of tire gluing to do, but I'm starting to lean toward enlarging some 2.2s...

Well it didn't go so hot in the first run. I pinned and soldered the uj's in place with 1.5mm music wire. Well all 4 uj shafts sheared off at the pin in the shaft. I think these uj's might be too soft to secure them this way. I imagine its going to need braized or tig welded to have a hope of holding up. Or ill need to find some hardened cvd or uj.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by Abavuso

Well it didn't go so hot in the first run. I pinned and soldered the uj's in place with 1.5mm music wire. Well all 4 uj shafts sheared off at the pin in the shaft. I think these uj's might be too soft to secure them this way. I imagine its going to need braized or tig welded to have a hope of holding up. Or ill need to find some hardened cvd or uj.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

I was going to ask how you secured the UJ's to EKD's shafts. I was looking at mine, and I think I will probably just start with brazing them together. We just have to make sure to clean off the coating on the UJ's to make sure the metal is brazing together properly.

[ekd]

Guys, as you know, those sockets were designed so that with a 4mm shaft, they would provide 1/2 sq. inch of contact surface... specifically to test glues. There is no reason not to try that first... a failure would cause no damage, and would be easy to clean up before moving to more difficult or permanent bonds. I precision bored those sockets (2 slow passes, not needed for solder or brazing) intending to provide the best odds to you that K.I.S.S. would rule the day. I need to know real world results to refine the design. Jumping straight to a bond that we all know will work... but, takes much more work, and tools that most don't have... teaches us nothing.

I have the torque readout tool now, so I will be testing bonds as soon as things warm up a bit. I will test from standard CA, flexible CA, and 2 part epoxies... through silver bearing solder/acid flux, and brazing. The latter will require much less contact, and will have appropriate (lighter) sockets.

Those UJs are wet noodles. You can see the finish left by A's dremel, on the joint, looks "fluffy". I have cut 4 of them, and can tell by resistance. Experience has given me a feel for the relative hardness of metals... and those cheap Integy CVDs (4.5mm) I was going to use feel easily twice the strength of the exceeds. I'll have hard #s on them as soon as conditions permit.

The UJ's served well already. They showed us that, at the low shaft speeds we need, they can be angled to extremes... while costing little. I won't be using them, the sockets can easily take 5.5mm shafts, so I'll spend a little for UJs with known quality, and thicker shafts. I have asked Nabil for the info he offered on the UJs he used here:

super bully universals

They held up for him.

A, Braze those up, and twist the heads off. We'll make more.

[Abavuso]

Originally Posted by ekd

Guys, as you know, those sockets were designed so that with a 4mm shaft, they would provide 1/2 sq. inch of contact surface... specifically to test glues. There is no reason not to try that first... a failure would cause no damage, and would be easy to clean up before moving to more difficult or permanent bonds. I precision bored those sockets (2 slow passes, not needed for solder or brazing) intending to provide the best odds to you that K.I.S.S. would rule the day. I need to know real world results to refine the design. Jumping straight to a bond that we all know will work... but, takes much more work, and tools that most don't have... teaches us nothing.

I have the torque readout tool now, so I will be testing bonds as soon as things warm up a bit. I will test from standard CA, flexible CA, and 2 part epoxies... through silver bearing solder/acid flux, and brazing. The latter will require much less contact, and will have appropriate (lighter) sockets.

Those UJs are wet noodles. You can see the finish left by A's dremel, on the joint, looks "fluffy". I have cut 4 of them, and can tell by resistance. Experience has given me a feel for the relative hardness of metals... and those cheap Integy CVDs (4.5mm) I was going to use feel easily twice the strength of the exceeds. I'll have hard #s on them as soon as conditions permit.

The UJ's served well already. They showed us that, at the low shaft speeds we need, they can be angled to extremes... while costing little. I won't be using them, the sockets can easily take 5.5mm shafts, so I'll spend a little for UJs with known quality, and thicker shafts. I have asked Nabil for the info he offered on the UJs he used here:

super bully universals

They held up for him.

A, Braze those up, and twist the heads off. We'll make more.

Those UJ's he's using look alot like the ones that we have.... Once I get it to the poin that I can determin if the UJ is going to fail or not then I'll jump to a more reputable hardened UJ. I'm not convinced that it's the metal, I still think pinnin it with 2.5mm music wire is the way to go but I'de have to find some larger diameter shafts on the Uj's and then bore out the shaft a touch. I think that If I had a 5 or 6mm shaft that was hardened you could easily slip it in there and make it work even if I had to make your shafts say 10mm at the end and just say an 18 x10x5mm bearing on the outside. I think that would hold like a charm.

[Abavuso]

I stand corrected I think these are the Uj's the he is using.



OFNA Hyper 7 TQ Buggy Front CVD 87354 // CVA Axle Universal Joint Drive Shaft

[Abavuso]

My take on STICK PROGRAMING....

This this is what i decided on after messing around with my 2.2 a little to fine tune the way it drives. the best part is that it works like a dream on the super and doesn't make me feel like I'm flipping crazy switches. Not to mention when you dig, the rear holds solid because you are applying curent to the motor. I need to get out and drive with it a touch so I can get a feel for it but it feels a lot more natural on the 4WS and the dig, burn.

[BentMetaL]

I like this! I just ordered a Sky Fly CT6B.(I'm Cheap) . I would really get some details on the dig a ma jig. Can you help out a EKD R&D brother?

[Abavuso]

The dig-a-ma-jig I initialy created was back in my XR-10 thred,, check it out here...

The Hawk - XR10 Bodiles Chassis Concept

[ekd]

Those UJs look good. The clearances look ample.

I like my 6B. I've never even held a "good" radio, but I can't imagine a better deal for a good starter than these things. I have a lot to learn about programming, but a quick look at the menu didn't baffle me too much.

Don, why are you thinking switched dig vs. dual ESC?

[Abavuso]

Originally Posted by ekd

Those UJs look good. The clearances look ample.

I like my 6B. I've never even held a "good" radio, but I can't imagine a better deal for a good starter than these things. I have a lot to learn about programming, but a quick look at the menu didn't baffle me too much.

Don, why are you thinking switched dig vs. dual ESC?

I know I'm only running the dig in my super at the moment because I can't afford another BRXL to finish me off

[BentMetaL]

Originally Posted by ekd

Those UJs look good. The clearances look ample.

I like my 6B. I've never even held a "good" radio, but I can't imagine a better deal for a good starter than these things. I have a lot to learn about programming, but a quick look at the menu didn't baffle me too much.

Don, why are you thinking switched dig vs. dual ESC?

I'm like you, just got to try things out. That's the fun of it. You never know whats coming next in the future.

[Abavuso]

So I tested a few other options... CA and JB Weld... I ran the JB all the way up around the lower portion of the UJ and sanded down the UJ shaft to ensure I could shove JB down the hole for maximum contact.



The CA broke free with little effore as I figured it would.

The JB on the other hand... after 24hours of curing you could slightly budge the shaft. On the next, 48hours of curing I coun't tell if it was moving at all or not. After 1 week of curing!!!!!! The end result!!!! A

After 5 min of bashing on a high traction surface the UJ's are strong but I snapped a third gear!!!! Further testing will tell but I think I can get EKD's shaft to bond to the UJ's with JB!!! Hummm who would have though!!!! Further testing once the new gears show up will tell for sure.

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by Abavuso

So I tested a few other options... CA and JB Weld... I ran the JB all the way up around the lower portion of the UJ and sanded down the UJ shaft to ensure I could shove JB down the hole for maximum contact.

The CA broke free with little effore as I figured it would.

The JB on the other hand... after 24hours of curing you could slightly budge the shaft. On the next, 48hours of curing I coun't tell if it was moving at all or not. After 1 week of curing!!!!!! The end result!!!! A

After 5 min of bashing on a high traction surface the UJ's are strong but I snapped a third gear!!!! Further testing will tell but I think I can get EKD's shaft to bond to the UJ's with JB!!! Hummm who would have though!!!! Further testing once the new gears show up will tell for sure.

Wow!

I didn't think CA would hold up for much torque, but glad to hear JB weld seems to be working great. I was still planning on brazing, but just barely got my tubes together. I still have a lot of work to go, but I might order up a spare gear-set just in case.

[ekd]

Good job, A!!

I couldn't be happier about this. If that bond works, we can try lighter shafts with heat treating, and not worry about ruining the treatments with more heat on assembly.

We need to break 3 or 4 of these gears in a row before we hunt stronger stuff. We can't get too excited about upgrades until we know it isn't a single part's (or single production run's) flaw. If these are all weak, we'll solve it.

At this end.... it's all good news. Hurry up and break it again!