UGC Super Viper Bully

[Jake Ewing]

Nice car! what shocks are you running and are they good?

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by Jake Ewing

Nice car! what shocks are you running and are they good?

Thanks! The shocks are 3.5" traxxas big bores that have been lathed down and have cap mod with Jato ends to get me the length. I am using Losi Mini-T springs and carbon fiber spring perches. I like them

[RickM]

So how did the BRXL programming go? Can I start ditching wires?

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by RickM

So how did the BRXL programming go? Can I start ditching wires?

Exactly as the process I described I had everything smashed before I started. I soldered 1 ESC to the power leads of the other, with a deans on that one. Then one at a time plugged one into Th. channel and programmed it.

The only thing I found odd was I needed to hold full reverse to initiate programming mode rather than full forward, but both calibrated just fine that way. and NO, my TX was not set to a reversed throttle channel...

[DickyT]

Ready for Bama!



Only showing the UGC rigs... I'd have the FF4 losi 2.2s in the pic, but it is Tydl's. Wade, we will be putting the authentic chassis back on since I never got around to getting mine built.....

[DickyT]

For the 1st 6 gates of course 1 at ECC the rig was working flawless, then the Holmes Hold killed my Brood Motor. The brushes fused to the comm, seizing the motor. I managed to finish the course dragging the locked rear wheels along.

Looking into the settings, Holmes hold was set to 80%, I had double and triple checked during building and after the initial shakedown run and my hold was at the default of 50.

I set it to 50, unfused, and cleaned the brushes and started course 2, the motor was seizing again before I even got to gate 1.

Prior to the motor issue, the rig was working amazing though

[Jslick]

Originally Posted by DickyT

For the 1st 6 gates of course 1 at ECC the rig was working flawless, then the Holmes Hold killed my Brood Motor. The brushes fused to the comm, seizing the motor. I managed to finish the course dragging the locked rear wheels along.

Looking into the settings, Holmes hold was set to 80%, I had double and triple checked during building and after the initial shakedown run and my hold was at the default of 50.

I set it to 50, unfused, and cleaned the brushes and started course 2, the motor was seizing again before I even got to gate 1.

Prior to the motor issue, the rig was working amazing though

That stinks, are you running the Br00d team springs?

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by Jslick

That stinks, are you running the Br00d team springs?

Yeah, I always have! A holmes hold setting of 80% though is known to be rougfh on equipment, combine that with the pouring rain on Sunday and a little water gets inside the can while the hold is engaged and you end up wit brushes fused to the comm...

I have had this issue before with hold settings higher than 60%, even with soft springs.

I know it was 50, I double and triple checked, yet after the seize both the and rear esc were set to 80 with a steep throttle curve, rather than linear throttle and a 50% hold setting....

[Erik D_lux]

Bummer.

Do you have to set them to 80 or can you get away with less?

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Bummer.

Do you have to set them to 80 or can you get away with less?

They WERE set at 50 and working fine in my testing prior to leaving for ECC. I was quite surprised to find the 80 setting... on both ESC's, along with a very steep throttle curve where I had that set to linear.

I have my conspiracy theory as to what happened, but we will stick with..... it was cold and wet, and something just glitched and reprogrammed BOTH my esc's from different settings than I left the house with.

[DickyT]

This write up is not for the expert machinist with all sorts of fancy tools. This is for the average hobbiest with primitive tools.

Tools used:

Pipe cutter, hacksaw, electrical tape, vise.

1) Push the Ti core out of the delrin sheath and thread your rod end on until it bottoms out.




2) Push the rod end snug against the delrin sheath and wrap the joint with a few tight wraps of electrical tape.




3) I like to bend 2 at a time so they end up the same. I tape the 2 links together with the rod ends even.




4) Using a piece of 4-40 all-thread I made a template to follow. The template is the total length that the Ti All-Thread will end up. Using the template I marked the bend locations.




5) Clamping the taped together links into a vise, add a little muscle and bend at your marked locations.




6) I marked the end point of the template and cut the delrin 10mm in from the mark.





7) I marked 10mm of thread and cut off the rest in a vise with a hacksaw, then screwed on the rod ends.




Install on rig!






I still need to do the rears, and am unsure exactly what I want right now...

[DickyT]

Axles are for sale. I lowered price today too, need cash to close on a house.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/sale/...ml#post4391954

I will build new axles next season when my wallet has recovered from house purchase

[C*H*U*D]

Originally Posted by DickyT

Axles are for sale. I lowered price today too, need cash to close on a house.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/sale/...ml#post4391954

I will build new axles next season when my wallet has recovered from house purchase

Congrats Richard!!

[12stepRC]

Who originally designed and cut the chassis ? I've read the whole thread but still a little confused...

[cameron20118]

Originally Posted by 12stepRC

Who originally designed and cut the chassis ? I've read the whole thread but still a little confused...

DickyT cut the chassies and I think he designed them also. He said at the start he was cutting 4-5 chassies for him and friends to test before using cf; aka carbon fiber.

[12stepRC]

Thanks man thats all I needed to know