Mad torque build, cheap and easy

[Tgreer]

Do the small berg gears not work with the exceed large gears?

[Nimyad]

They work, they're the same pitch. The exceed gears use a larger pin though.
Got my new wheels in the mail today, kyosho monster truck wheels with a 17mm hex. They're not 40 series though unfortunately, they're 3.2. They didn't specify which size they were so I knew it was a gamble, I'm alright with them bein 3.2 though. The tire stretches on them fairly easy but it balloons them a little, as soon as I narrow the wheels the ballooning should go away and I'll be happy.
They're lighter than the stock wheels so that's a plus too, stock wheel is 2.5oz and these are 1.5oz.
Pics


Pic of my steering, about 45 degrees. It's as much as you can have with the stock axle shafts

[Nimyad]

Narrowed my wheels today, I discovered the glue was insufficient so I used 6 m3 screws per wheel to hold them together. Narrowed them from 2.25" to 1.75" and now I don't have any steering clearance issues.
Then screwed around on our course today and broke an axle shaft pin, luckily I have spares!
Also if you have any interest in running mad torque axles look at this thread and tell him you're interested. Berg small gears are an absolute must to make these axles survive under a super!
New gearbox and gear options

[Beest]

Has anyone tried to use bully knuckles and xvd shafts in one of these? An Axial c-hub will fit a bully knuckle. Probably have to be cut down but that could make these strong enough to hold up to the abuse of super duty. They are also reasonable a far as cvds go. And that would also allow you to run about any hex you wanted. Are the lockers the same as the berg as well?

Another question, Could somebody post a weight of the MT gearbox with gears in it? Just case and gears. Thanks.

[Nimyad]

Bully axle and berg axle shafts are to long to fit in a mt without using different tubes. The berg lockers have a different bolt pattern than the mt so you have to drill out the 4th gear to use a berg locker.

If you read the link I posted in the post above yours you'll find the weight information you're after.

[Beest]

Sweet. Thanks. Super light!

You could cut and grind the tang on the bully xvd to fit into the MT locker. And cut them to length just like dlux has em for bergs.

[Nimyad]

Yes you could, I'd rather do dlux tubes and sds 300m shafts though.

[BentMetaL]

Originally Posted by Nimyad

I could see getting the brxl, but does it have a lipo cutoff built in? I liked the outcry cause I can get it and a cutoff for under $100.

Yes the BRXL has lipo cutoff with a internal BEC

[Beest]

Originally Posted by Nimyad

Yes you could, I'd rather do dlux tubes and sds 300m shafts though.

I have super300s in Dlux tubes on my berg. Top notch stuff. But if you went for super 300s and dlux tubes, It would get expensive real quick. 100$+ for tubes and 300$ for 2 sets of cvds. With bully cvds and knuckles would cost ya 50$ per axle. Plus your time. I dont disagree with you that the 300/dlux would be the nicest, but The title of the thread is cheap.


Im gonna have to get me one of these to build. Fun on the cheap.

As for the HH brxl esc, Its flat out awesome. I love mine. And the Holmes hold is second to none in the drag brake department.

[Nimyad]

No doubt about it being super expensive. I was just giving the basic idea, I'll probably just make my own tubes out of delrin and run stock berg shafts with ax10 inner c's and knuckles. Then for gears run an sds berg 3rd and the rest stock mt gears, with a berg locker of course.

As for the brxl, it's on my list of things to get. I'm not getting it until my stock esc dies though.

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by Beest

Has anyone tried to use bully knuckles and xvd shafts in one of these? An Axial c-hub will fit a bully knuckle. Probably have to be cut down but that could make these strong enough to hold up to the abuse of super duty. They are also reasonable a far as cvds go. And that would also allow you to run about any hex you wanted. Are the lockers the same as the berg as well?

Looks like the Bully shafts are long enough so, all you would have to do is buy some Bully knuckles, machine them, cut the shafts to length and then it looks like you would only have to slightly cut the shaft for the tang. I would actually prefer the MT locker over the Berg in this situation. The only time I ever broke the Bully shafts is at the tang and I blame that on the smaller Berg slot. Had I known, I would have put a MT locker in the Berg case and been good to go.

Good thinkin!

[Nimyad]

So are you saying keep the stock tubes and run bully shafts and knuckles, or different tubes? Why couldn't you just run bully shafts and cut them down?

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by Nimyad

So are you saying keep the stock tubes and run bully shafts and knuckles, or different tubes? Why couldn't you just run bully shafts and cut them down?

There are lots of options. Depends on what youre looking to do.

What I was getting at is it would be possible to keep your stock tubes, cut some Bully super shafts down, run a Bully knuckle and youre good to go. You could do front and rear for $100 and you would have a pretty bulletproof axle setup, just address the stock 3rd gear and I bet you could party on those axles pretty hard. My only other concern would be the tubes and breaking the plastic C off. You could just replace them since they are so cheap or you could upgrade to better tubes down the road if its a problem. The Bully knuckle is really easy to put knuckle weights on too.

[Nimyad]

Interesting, I'll definitely look into it. Is there no way of using bully axles with ax10 knuckles? I already have a couple sets of aluminum ax10 knuckles, that's why I ask.

If it'll seat correctly I could see drilling/machining out the mt hub so I can keep the same width and run the stronger axles.

[Erik D_lux]

Bully knuckles are drastically different from AX10 stuff.

Running a Bully knuckle would also probably be great because they have a bunch of width built into them, then you could also ditch those huge hex spacers and run something more proper and stronger.

[Nimyad]

Screwed around a little tonight. I need to limit my flex and my steering, or run bully knuckles and shafts. My steering likes to bind at full lock and it screws me up. I also want to make a 4 link in the rear at least.

[Nimyad]

Got material for a new chassis today, I'm hoping when it's done I'll be rtr at sub 6lb
1/8 delrin (chassis), 1/4 delrin rod (brace the hell out of my chassis), 3/8 delrin rod (links and steering)

[i luv duct tape]

Can't wait to see what you've got planned for this beast.

[Nimyad]

Next is a chassis and 4 links front and rear, but I'm kinda at a stand still right now. I can't decide exactly which way to go with my chassis. Also my servo took a crap so I'm waiting for a new one.

[Tgreer]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

There are lots of options. Depends on what youre looking to do.

What I was getting at is it would be possible to keep your stock tubes, cut some Bully super shafts down, run a Bully knuckle and youre good to go. You could do front and rear for $100 and you would have a pretty bulletproof axle setup, just address the stock 3rd gear and I bet you could party on those axles pretty hard. My only other concern would be the tubes and breaking the plastic C off. You could just replace them since they are so cheap or you could upgrade to better tubes down the road if its a problem. The Bully knuckle is really easy to put knuckle weights on too.

The problem with keeping stock tubes is there is no camber adjustment, it would be nice to clock these rigs with some camber!