From WILD to Kinda Mild Super Build

[Conflict]

I grafted an extra RR battery mount from my XR10 onto my super bully today. Works pretty well actually. Just barely clears everything from lock to lock.

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[J-Money]

Originally Posted by Conflict

Thanks Tweak6 i have recalibrated both esc's as well as clearing the radio settings again. I do already have the radio set do that the front kicks in sooner but was hoping for a permanent fix.

I should try swapping my other radio and see how it acts.

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Did you recalibrated both at the same time or individually? In my experiance I individually calibrate and always do BOTH in the throttle channel with epa's at 100/100 if I do different they are always off if not that then has to be something in the radio, As for shocks I agree with both stubs and crawl in az thick thick oil and dlux no preload spring cups, The use the internal springs gives me some limit and get rid of droop not sure of od or Id there just hardware store specials took the shock in with me trial and error untill i got what felt right build looks good keep it up

[Conflict]

Originally Posted by J-Money

Did you recalibrated both at the same time or individually? In my experiance I individually calibrate and always do BOTH in the throttle channel with epa's at 100/100 if I do different they are always off if not that then has to be something in the radio, As for shocks I agree with both stubs and crawl in az thick thick oil and dlux no preload spring cups, The use the internal springs gives me some limit and get rid of droop not sure of od or Id there just hardware store specials took the shock in with me trial and error untill i got what felt right build looks good keep it up

I did calibrate both ESC's individually. I am questioning my self now if I set the radio back to 100/100, I know that I was messing with those trying to get them motors to operate evenly, then just reset the ESC's. I very well could have not taken the radio back to zero. I'll redo it all again when I get home.

I have 80wt oil but going to just order 100 today. What length shocks should I run? Probably go back to 3.5"? I have 4" now. What is an average travel for a rig? Say all 4 tires on the ground, and shocks fully extended, you just take and push either the front or rear part of the chassis down till the shocks limit, what would be a good number for that?

I have heard a couple different times that its 'good' for chassis cross braces to hit the upper links? Why is that? Is the best articulation just the twist of the axle and not the overall up and down travel? I hate living so far out here in the woods sometimes, because there is NO-ONE else around here with crawlers for me to compare to. I always strive to clear the upper links out of the way to let the shocks travel to their full motion. Should I not go that route?

I just ordered a set of Dlux cups, I have a lot of other stuff coming from him, so it'll be easy enough for him to throw the cups in with everything else. I am going to buy some more shocks today too, just don't know if I should order 3.5 or 3.75..

Thanks for all the help fella's

[Curcal]

Most of those attribute apply to 2.2 for sure. Me being new to the super scene im not sure

[tweak6]

You can always just do some internal limiting on the shocks that you have now before you go and buy new shocks to find out what length works best for the set up you are running an your style of driving. If I recall correctly from Erik's build on that chassis, I think he was running limited 3.5" big bores. I could be wrong though, check out his build thread I'm sure the length of the shocks are on one of them pages.

My crawler had 4" in the rear and 3.75" in the front with the shock cap mod so the eye to eye length was even longer than normal. I have 30 weight shock oil in my shocks. I have never tried running anything heavier or lighter, I have a bottle of that laying around so that is what I use. But as for shock oil weight I feel that is also personal preference.

[tweak6]

Originally Posted by Conflict

I tried CI, and unfortunately it was a no go, and it was for reasons that I totally understand too. I think my best bet is to buy a bunch of tires and find someone here on rcc that will make them for me...

Idk if you found someone to make you tires yet or not, but go on YouTube and search cut n shut tires there is a video on there that shows how to do a basic cut n shut tire. It is really easy to do it just takes some practice, I used some old tires to practice with before I did the tires I planned on running.

[Conflict]

Originally Posted by tweak6

Idk if you found someone to make you tires yet or not, but go on YouTube and search cut n shut tires there is a video on there that shows how to do a basic cut n shut tire. It is really easy to do it just takes some practice, I used some old tires to practice with before I did the tires I planned on running.

I've seen that video, and almost pulled the trigger on making some yet I am having a hard time bringing myself to try it out. I try to play it out in my head, and ask the question that need asked, but just not comfortable doing it yet. The tires I want are going to require cutting the bead out of a different tire too I think, and I have no clue how people achieve that.

As far as the shocks I never thought about limiting them. I guess I am just trying to get maximum articulation and don't quite understand why folks limit their travel. My 4" shocks were awesome until I did the cap mod, now they are a mile too long. If my current shocks have 1" of travel and I take half of that away to get the ride back down, then I am barley going to have any articulation? So I don't understand the idea of it. That's why I asked how much travel folks do have. Again this is the pits of living remotely, I can't get around a group of guys with different setups to see what they are doing and why..

As of now, I am parking the super build, as much as it pains me to say it. Nothing is working out right, and I was also screwing around with it and turned sharply, the front tire lifted up and the rig rolled over. No big deal right? Wrong! When that happened there was quite a bit of damage done, stripped some spacers, bent a shock, and tweaked the links. I am blaming it on the 8 stupid pounds of tires + inertia= Kerboom!

I have a set of tires getting built, but until I can bolt them on, I am not going to proceed because everything is getting fuct up, and I can't figure a damn thing out.

[tweak6]

Originally Posted by Conflict

As far as the shocks I never thought about limiting them. I guess I am just trying to get maximum articulation and don't quite understand why folks limit their travel. My 4" shocks were awesome until I did the cap mod, now they are a mile too long. If my current shocks have 1" of travel and I take half of that away to get the ride back down, then I am barley going to have any articulation? So I don't understand the idea of it. That's why I asked how much travel folks do have. Again this is the pits of living remotely, I can't get around a group of guys with different setups to see what they are doing and why..

As of now, I am parking the super build, as much as it pains me to say it. Nothing is working out right, and I was also screwing around with it and turned sharply, the front tire lifted up and the rig rolled over. No big deal right? Wrong! When that happened there was quite a bit of damage done, stripped some spacers, bent a shock, and tweaked the links. I am blaming it on the 8 stupid pounds of tires + inertia= Kerboom!

I have a set of tires getting built, but until I can bolt them on, I am not going to proceed because everything is getting fuct up, and I can't figure a damn thing out.

Seems like to me that you have to much articulation, a ton of articulation looks really cool but it can hurt you more than help you. Once the axle articulates so much that weight from the wheel, tire and knuckle weight can pull the truck over. (kind of like what happened to you truck when things broke) On my truck it is kind hard to tell in the pictures but the front shocks would only compress about half way before hitting the upper links and the rear shocks would compress about 3/4 of the way before hitting the upper links. when you compressed both shocks at the same time, but the would fully compress when you articulated the truck and it still had a large amount of articulation.

If your shocks had 1" of travel that would mean 2" of travel with articulated since one front shock and one rear shock compresses when articulating.

As for the links being tweaked, that probably had more to do with the 3/16" 7075 aluminum they are made out of along with the weight of the wheels and tires. I know that Erik ran 3/16 titanium rear links on that chassis when he first built it and found that they were not strong enough for the length of the link. There is like one whole page in his build thread about the rear links on his truck.

The links may have twisted making it seem like there was more articulation then there really was and once the twisted so far that bound up and just bent.

I have seen people running aluminum upper links but for the most part 1/4" titanium links are ran for the lower links. You could probably get away with running 3/16 titanium links for the front (I think that is what im going to run on my truck, since I am in the middle of a rebuild and think I am going to need different length links since I am switching from super bully style axles to super berg style axles) but with the length of your rear links, I think you are going to find that you are going to need to use 1/4 titanium links. You will lose a lot of the flex that in is the truck that probably caused the items that broke to break.

I used bolt cutters to bend the links on my truck. The three bolts that hold the bolt cutter together, I replaced them with longer bolts. then all you have to do is open the bolt cutter place the link between the three bolts so that two bolts are on top and one bolt is on the bottom and just close the bolt cutters and the link will bend.

there are many ways to bend links but that is what easiest way I have found and came up with to bend links, you are only able to do simple bends with bolt cutters but your links a similar to mine so you will be able to do those bends with the cutters.

If you don't fully understand what I really mean by the bolt cutters I can post some pictures, just let me know.

[Conflict]

On my truck it is kind hard to tell in the pictures but the front shocks would only compress about half way before hitting the upper links and the rear shocks would compress about 3/4 of the way before hitting the upper links. when you compressed both shocks at the same time, but the would fully compress when you articulated the truck and it still had a large amount of articulation. <-- THIS IS WHAT I NEEDED TO HEAR!!!

Okay this makes sense. I put my other caps without the cap mod on last night, and it went back to over camming themselves, but I think I can correct it with the links. So I am going to try this tonight. Okay this is a breakthrough. (To me at least)

I do realize my links are simply not going to work. I have already spoke with Erik and he is going to duplicate his old 1/4" titanium links for me. We decided on 3/16" front and 1/4" on the rear. The rear links are so damn long (8.5") that 1/4" is going to be my only option. I like that bolt cutter idea, but fortunately part of what I do at my shop requires bending metal, so we have some really cool rod bending tools. I have that part under control. Do you tap your own ends? The only reason that I am having Erik do this is because I can't lathe down my ends or tap them. I would really appreciate some pictures of your links. Fire away brother!! Thank you so much for your input too, this stuff is priceless for me.

[tweak6]

No I don't thread my own links for the same reason you don't I am not able to turn down the ends, I just get in touch with Erik an order links from him. I just bend them myself, I will try and get some pictures of the links put up later on tonight or tomorrow

[Conflict]

I actually went through all of your builds, so you don't need to post pictures now. Actully earlier on in this thread I had mentioned that I built my links after I seen your links on the very first part of your super build. So I've already been inspired from your work there. THANKS!!!

[tweak6]

ok cool, yes I saw that earlier in your build thread, the little bit of time that I ran that truck I really like the bends that were on the links. Then I few small changes on that truck turned in to a total rebuild pretty much. I am just waiting on some tubes and axles from Dlux and then I can start putting it all back together. There are only two things left that I have to figure out on the build, the links and tires. I cant do anything with links until I get the axles put together and tires are the last things I am worried about.

[Conflict]

As I said in your post about the upper links, I have been utilizing the aluminum, I think it is suitable for upper links probably not lowers. I can help you out on the uppers no problem.

Tires are a huge issue if you don't know how to make them yourself. Thankfully I found a set right at the height I was looking for, now I must sit back and patiently wait for them.

[tweak6]

Waiting for parts is the hardest part of building a crawler. I get jumpy way to easy and can't wait for parts to get to my house. But the last of my part should be at my house come Monday and I can get the axle together and the truck in the jig and see what I have to do about links. If I end up needing some upper links ill PM you. What is the length of your upper links and what do they weigh?

[Conflict]

Yeah I can't stand waiting for parts. I have to give Erik a big shout out for getting me my last baggie of goodies. I will get some pictures when I get home tonight, but he hooked me up with a set of monster 1/4" titanium rear lower links and a set of 3/16" titanium front lower links. I had used aluminum for all the links and learned quickly that it wasn't going to work. After I installed the links last night the axles were INSTANTLY stabilized in position. I was really gun-ho about the aluminum I'd been using, but the length of my rear lower links are over 8" so they were pretty flimsy! I tried to get some run time in last night but it's all really just hopeless. These damn tires are way to heavy, I mean hell some guys are running 2.2 MOA's that weigh less than the tires and wheels i'm running. So for the tires and wheels, Hittman himself is in the process of making my set. Here at my company we make a lot of hospital room table pads, gurney, pads, surgery tables, etc. so needless to say I have LOTS of scrap foam, memory foam, poly, UA, blah blah blah. So thankfully Hittman has been super patient with me on trying to determine the best type of foam setup for me to utilize. I have always thought it was a shame throwing all this foam out. I knew that it could be used in crawler tires but unfortunately didn't have enough experience to know what was best. I have ended up sending him 2 different shipments of foam pre-cut for the tires and wheels. As of last night he text me and let me know that we finally figured out the nominal layers, and types of foam. So (fingers crossed) this time next week I should have my new wheels and tires. They are going to be 7 3/4" tall rovers, with HPI blast wheels! I cannot wait!!

[Conflict]

Originally Posted by tweak6

Waiting for parts is the hardest part of building a crawler. I get jumpy way to easy and can't wait for parts to get to my house. But the last of my part should be at my house come Monday and I can get the axle together and the truck in the jig and see what I have to do about links. If I end up needing some upper links ill PM you. What is the length of your upper links and what do they weigh?

My upper links are like 8.5" and 5.5" but I have some pretty crazy bends in them. I am actually replacing both now because of the new links I just got. When I take them off the rig I will weigh them for you.

[Conflict]

Okay so I guess a good thing from sitting back and reading and not building or driving, is that you can actually soak up ideas. I never really knew why folks switch out their axle tubes, initially I thought is was specifically for weight, but now I see that with tubes you can also clock the knuckles, as well as utilize other types of C's and knuckles. A question that I have is if I were to purchase a set of Dlux's axle tubes, would I also have to purchase a new set of axle shafts?

Also, has anyone done a write up on decreasing the amount of slop in the bully axles?

Thanks fella's!

[tweak6]

No Erik can make a set of tubes for the super bully axles and you will be able to use the stock axle shafts. Go into the bully section on here and at the very top there is a thread that list all the stuff that you can do to get rid of slop. But if you are going to get tubes and chubs I would get a set of the dlux knuckles you can use the stock bully shafts you just have to drill a new hole for the pin, since they are made for the OFNA shafts. Get a set of the dlux delrin hubs they will take out a great deal of slop also. But with cvds you are always going to have some slop that you won't be able to get rid of.

Idk if this is in that thread but if you put a small amount of locktite on the part of the axle shaft that slides into the locker that will remove some of that slop.

[Conflict]

Originally Posted by tweak6

Waiting for parts is the hardest part of building a crawler. I get jumpy way to easy and can't wait for parts to get to my house. But the last of my part should be at my house come Monday and I can get the axle together and the truck in the jig and see what I have to do about links. If I end up needing some upper links ill PM you. What is the length of your upper links and what do they weigh?

Here's the weight I promised!

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[Conflict]

Beautiful new links. I absolutely love how this line travels underneath the rig

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