Chaotic Super Switch

[filotr14lsdude]

I'm running my cab at standard height. I can still drive when upside down on 8in wheels. These wheels are huge so it should be fine.

As for the bolt heads, it didn't really matter. Either style will snap. Some shear half way along the bolt, worst part is some bolts do and others don't break so its really hard to pick which will go.

[tweak6]

Yeah I figure it would be fine with the standard cad height, but it all the changes and all the parts going into this build. I kind of like why not change the cab, if would lower the center of gravity some not very much since the cab is not all that heavy to start with. It will also change the look of the chassis to something that know one else has and would match the wheels.

[tweak6]

So this is where I am at with the steering angles. It not that I don't have a good bit of steering. Its just that I have more steering one way than I do the other.

The first picture shows full left throw. With the rod end just touching the carbon bracket for the servo. And the second picture should full right throw and there is a fair bit more steering that way than to other way.

But with that said it full right throw could be to much steering, but from the angles I have seen from Erik_Dlux's super build I think that the full right throw is the max amount of steering I can run with his axles. I just need to see what I have to do so I can get more steering out of full left throw.

I have not had a chance to try the middle arm that came with the strengtheners just yet. But I figured I would post these pictures so that you could see what I am talking about.

[tweak6]

Here are a few more pictures.

[Curcal]

The right steering arm should even the two out. In theory

[tweak6]

I don't think it will. I just think it is going to let me turn more in one direction than the other.

[tweak6]

I had some time tonight to try out a shorter arm for the strengthener and it didn't help with the steering throw. It gave it less angle than the longest one did. The rod end would hit the carbon braket sooner than it did with the longest one that came with the kit. So fingers crossed I will be able to get a long one made up Thursday that is longer than the longest one that came with the kit and I hope it will fix my problem.

[filotr14lsdude]

Are you using the drag link rod end on the top or bottom of the cf arm?
If you put it underneath you shouldn't have to worry about it hitting the arm

[tweak6]

Originally Posted by filotr14lsdude

Are you using the drag link rod end on the top or bottom of the cf arm?
If you put it underneath you shouldn't have to worry about it hitting the arm

The drag link is mounted to the bottom of the CF arm. The problem with it hitting is on the CF plate that holes the gear on top of the servo, not the CF arm itself.



I had a chance to make a longer arm for the gear and it will work. But it is only a 2 or 3mm difference in hole placement. So there has to be an easier way to make it work with the long CF arm that came with the strengtheners. I am thinking maybe an offset rod end or something along those lines.

[filotr14lsdude]

Originally Posted by tweak6

The drag link is mounted to the bottom of the CF arm. The problem with it hitting is on the CF plate that holes the gear on top of the servo, not the CF arm itself.



I had a chance to make a longer arm for the gear and it will work. But it is only a 2 or 3mm difference in hole placement. So there has to be an easier way to make it work with the long CF arm that came with the strengtheners. I am thinking maybe an offset rod end or something along those lines.

Is the bolt or the rod end hitting?
Could you use the rod ends that have an m3 thread in them?
I've seen some online,don't remember the name.
I used the rod ends from a slash turnbuckles. Ones side is missing the 'flange' so you can mount a counter sunk screw really flush with the ball.

Like these

Traxxas 39mm Front Camber Link Turnbuckle (2) (VXL) [TRA3644] | RC Cars & Trucks - A Main Hobbies

[tweak6]

The bolt is not hitting anything the rod end itself is running into the bracket on the servo. I have been thinking about trying to use an M3 rod end, I have been thinking about the offset M3 and/or the bent M3 rod ends that rc4wd make. The offset ones might act like a longer arm and place the drag link out just enough so that it will act like the longer arm.

[Curcal]

Use a spacer to move your rod end away.

[Erik D_lux]

If you go back to the setup in the picture below, can you shorten your drag link? Its really hard to troubleshoot fitment issues over the net so I am only guessing but it seems like if you shorten your drag link, not only will you get more left side throw, it will also give you a better angle from the steering knuckle to the arm.




Here are some of the instructions I put in the vendors thread. I am not sure I worded them correctly?

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

As said above, you will want to make sure your geometry is proper. This means nice straight lines and you do not want your steering to cam over when steering away from the servo. If you have larger angles going from the steering arm to the knuckle or if your drag link cams over at full throw, it can stress the CF plate and ruin your mesh causing problems.

The best way I have found to make it so the steering does not cam over is to set everything up so that when steering towards the servo that the rod end will touch the CF plate at full throw. If you do this and it still cams over on the other end, you need to step up to the next larger steering arm until it does not cam over.

Below is a picture showing that the servo bottoms out just barely hitting the CF plate when it swings towards the servo side.

What I was trying to put out there is that on my setup, I let the rod end hit the CF plate like yours is but, that needs to be FULL THROW.

I would shorten the drag link and even possibly go to the middle length arm. You definitely have some challenges putting the servo so close to the knuckle. It would be cool to flip the servo to get a longer drag link but it looks like the case is way too big right there. I hope it works out.

[tweak6]

I think that will work great, that would put the arm farther away from the side that it is hitting on and will give me that little bit of extra throw that I need and it should mess up the throw to the other side. I'll give that a try and keep you posted on if it works or not.

That will be a much easier fix then going through all the effort to make a longer arm.

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

If you go back to the setup in the picture below, can you shorten your drag link? Its really hard to troubleshoot fitment issues over the net so I am only guessing but it seems like if you shorten your drag link, not only will you get more left side throw, it will also give you a better angle from the steering knuckle to the arm.




Here are some of the instructions I put in the vendors thread. I am not sure I worded them correctly?





What I was trying to put out there is that on my setup, I let the rod end hit the CF plate like yours is but, that needs to be FULL THROW.

I would shorten the drag link and even possibly go to the middle length arm. You definitely have some challenges putting the servo so close to the knuckle. It would be cool to flip the servo to get a longer drag link but it looks like the case is way too big right there. I hope it works out.

[tweak6]

So with the weather being nice as h*ll anymore I have been dying to get on to the rocks. So for the time being I have decided to put the servo strengtheners on the work bench for now and just run a servo horn so I can get this thing running.

The question now is: Will 3/16" 6061 Aluminum be strong enough to make steering links out of??

I order some to make my upper links from and I am planning on using it for the drag link as well. The drag link is short enough (60-65mm eye to eye) that I feel the 6061 will be more than strong enough for that. But the other steering link is 230mm or so eye to eye. At that length I am on the fence.

Has anyone tried to run 3/16" 6061 Aluminum for steering links and if so how did that work out for you?

[Hittman]

Originally Posted by tweak6

So with the weather being nice as h*ll anymore I have been dying to get on to the rocks. So for the time being I have decided to put the servo strengtheners on the work bench for now and just run a servo horn so I can get this thing running.

The question now is: Will 3/16" 6061 Aluminum be strong enough to make steering links out of??

I order some to make my upper links from and I am planning on using it for the drag link as well. The drag link is short enough (60-65mm eye to eye) that I feel the 6061 will be more than strong enough for that. But the other steering link is 230mm or so eye to eye. At that length I am on the fence.

Has anyone tried to run 3/16" 6061 Aluminum for steering links and if so how did that work out for you?

Personally, I don't trust 6061 for anything. If you truly want to use aluminum for links, do yourself a huge favor and use 7075. You will NOT regret that decision at all.

[Conflict]

I agree with Hittman, just go with 7075. That is what I built all of my upper links and steering links out of and have had zero strength problems. The only problem I have encountered using 7075 was making the rear upper and lower links for my super-class, over 8" in link length with 8lbs worth of tires exceeded the strength. The links going from my servo to knuckle each have a 45° to keep the link parallel to the other and I haven't had any problems at all with it.

[Conflict]

I might actually have some left over aluminum I could send to you if you wanted to try before you buy. I buy a 12 foot stick for $6 bucks, so its cheap to play around with.

[Erik D_lux]

I tried going 7075 on my steering links and front lower links on my 2.2. All eventually broke at the threads. I have since gone back to TI and feels great to be worry free again.

[Conflict]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

I tried going 7075 on my steering links and front lower links on my 2.2. All eventually broke at the threads. I have since gone back to TI and feels great to be worry free again.

What size threads were you cutting?