Chaotic Super Switch

[tweak6]

This was meant to be just a few parts to update my super with some things I wanted to change and some things I wanted to try, but it had turned into pretty much a total rebuild of the truck.

First Super Build

That is the link to the first build of this truck.

This is going to be a long build as due to my work schedule and waiting on parts to come in. The goal for this truck is to 5lbs with no added weight. The first build of this chassis came in at 6.5lbs with no added weight. So I feel I will be able to hit my goal pretty easy.

The chassis is Chaotic Super Switch, I have replaced all the screws with aluminum ones and made new body panels out of thinner plastic.

By doing this it saved me 13 grams, this might not seem very much but every gram adds up by the end of the build.

[tweak6]

Body Panels are finished, they are just done with a sharpie marker. The design is kind of hard to see since it was black on carbon fiber, this is no rhyme or reason to the design.

Panels get beat up and tear or break easy and this are really thin panels so I don't feel it is worth the time and effort to use paint and do something really detailed.

[tweak6]

Well according to ups and usps I should have a few packages waiting for me when I get home from work, my motors, gear cases and tires should be there. We'll wait and see

[tweak6]

Motors came in the other day I had time today to get a weight comparison, the old motors were tekin 35T and the new are team brood chaos 35T with all the light weight goodies.

[tweak6]

Along with the motors coming in the gear cases and electronic mount also came in from ClassiCutCustoms, Two rear Bulldog gear cases to run super berg tubes and axles. So I will be able to run the servo opposite of the motor.

[tweak6]

I have had the wheels from probably a week now but I have just now had a chance to get them put together. These where made by Dlux and are a one off face design that I drew up and emailed the picture to him and then he cut them out. The size is 6.5" in diameter, 1" wide, glue on style G10 wheels.

I first saw a bigger diameter wheel on SVEN super build on here. After rolling the thought of a bigger wheel around for a while now I decided that I would give it a try. It makes sense to me, since you will have a much shorter side wall on the tire but still allow for an 8 inch tall tire or bigger. In theory this will really help with side hilling since there will be less tire to roll over. But then again everything works in theory so time will tell on how this works.

To a small surprise on my part the bigger wheel is also lighter than the smaller wheels. But at the same time my old wheels are Dlux beadlocks with G10 face, Delrin rear, aluminum spacers and stainless hardware. Where as the new wheels are G10 front and rear, plastic spacers and aluminum hardware.

As for tires for theses wheels I have not totally decided on what tires I am going to use. But 2.2 tires can not be used, because of the diameter of the wheel. Without using a bigger tire to make sidewalls and then using the tread from a 2.2 tire and that just adds up to a lot of tires.

[J-Money]

Those are huge can't wait to see what you wrap them with keep up the good work man

[Erik D_lux]

Yeah, those wheels are going to be bad ass!

I will be interested to see how you assemble those axles. My guess is that they are going to limit your steering by more than you want them to.

[tweak6]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Yeah, those wheels are going to be bad ass!

I will be interested to see how you assemble those axles. My guess is that they are going to limit your steering by more than you want them to.

Thanks you did a killer job making them. I was a little concerned on the steering but I am about 80% sure that I will be able to place the bends in the links so that the bend closest to the axle will slide right into the back side of the wheel at full steer.

[tweak6]

The last of the parts came in on Monday and I finally had some time to get some work done.

I got the axles put together, the front one is 80% done I just have to set the angles on the knuckles and shock/link mount. the rear I still have to change out screws and Loctite the bearings in the knuckles along with set the angles.

this time around I am going with a 17.5" wheel base. I am going to need to make up some new links for the front and probably the rear too, not sure about the rear yet but I know the front will need them.

[tweak6]

I got some more done on the crawler today, the lower links are done on the front and rear. The upper links are just some 3/16" titanium links that I had from one car or another for mock up, they will be replaced with aluminum links as soon as I order them.

[tweak6]

I also got jumpy and had to stick the wheels on there to see what it looks like with them on there and I have to say it looks crazy. The one thing that I don't really like about this set up is that I am most likely going to have to run a bent steering link because there is just not the room to run a straight one. It will hit the gear case. But I may get in touch with Dlux and see about maybe getting a longer upper plate for his knuckles when I talk to him about links when I go to order them.

Aside from that the steering angle looks like it should still be really good, we will have to see once it is finally together.

[tweak6]

I got the axle put all together and final assembly, had to do a little mod to the axle tube on the motor side. Since the gears have been moved in these gear cases, the flange on the axle tube on the motor side had to be trimmed so that the gears could mesh. A hand file and knife made quick work of this.

[tweak6]

I noticed this when I was changing out the screws on the front knuckles but forgot to take pictures of it when I was doing it, so I took pictures when I did the rear knuckles.

I have the Dlux Knuckles made from delrin with 22mm inside bearing and a 16mm outside bearing. Since they are made from delrin they have small brass inserts for the treads inside of just threaded delrin.

Since the inside bearing is so large some of the insert has been taken away to make room for the bearing. The first picture is a normal insert and the second picture is one that has had material taken away for the bearing.

The problem I found with these with it being a SMALL problem is that if you over tighten the screws that hold the carbon fiber plates to the delrin, the inserts in the delrin cause start to pull out making the spacing for the C-hub off and creating slop.

What I did to fix this was place a small about of red Loctite on the insert itself and push it back into the knuckle and let it set up. I also placed red Loctite on the bearings to help hold them in place and so they would work as a bearing instead of just turning around in the knuckle.

[tweak6]

Here are a few pictures of how the truck is sitting right now, I made a lot more progress than I thought I would the last two days. I have to order a few more parts, build some tires and wire up the electronics and she is ready to run.

[tweak6]

Got some work done on the crawler today, I was working on the steering links to get the lengths and find out what kind of steering I will have. I found out that I am going to need a longer arm for on the strenghteners in order to get full left steering. I have the longest arm that came with them on right now. I am going to make a longer arm and see if that works. I will probably cut it out of delrin or plexiglass to see if it is going to give me full throw before I go and cut it out of carbon.

[filotr14lsdude]

Glad to see this coming along so nicel.

Just a suggestion, and something to keep in mind.
Be careful where you use alloy bolts In the supers they like to break. I found in shocks and steering they will snap, mainly in brutal binds.
Basically can kill a good days crawling.

[Erik D_lux]

Man, build thread looks great! I cant believe this thread isnt blowing up with all the great parts! The tires and wheels blow my mind!

How wide are you overall?

For the steering, youre essentially running the same setup as I am so you should be good with the middle sized arm. Did you program the servo for 180* of throw? You can always feel free to send me a PM/email or whatever if things are not working out. Sometimes they dont simply work out but sometimes there is a simple answer and I could possibly save you time and energy.

[Curcal]

I have certainly been following this build and those wheels are crazay.

[tweak6]

Right now it is sitting at 12 3/4" wide from outside of wheel to outside of wheel. I have .600 dlux delrin hubs on it, but I have .475 hubs and delrin spacers so I have the option of going wider or narrower. It has a 17.5" axle to axle wheel base.

The servo is programmed to 180* throw.

I have not tried the middle arm yet but I will have to try it and see what happens. The reason I think/thought a longer arm was needed is because the rod end hits the carbon fiber bracket for the strengthener before the servo reaches it's full throw.

I think this was part of the problem I had when the strenghteners were skipping teeth also. The rod end was hitting the bracket and the servo could still turn more causing the bracket to flex and bend forcing the two gears apart.

Thanks for the advice on the bolts, I didn't really think much about that. It's something to think about. Did you have socket head or button head on your shocks and steering when they broke?


What I have been wondering is if it is worth the time and energy to make a smaller cab for the chassis. This chassis is 4" tall from top to bottom and you only have to be atleast 3" tall. Any thoughts on if it would be worth making a shorter can??

These wheels still blow my mind every time if see them and I see them everyday. I have a few pictures with the wheels on it that I will try an get posted in the next few days.