Bruiser 2012 front wheel slop
 

The rears are nice and straight, no wobbled what so ever. The fronts have a little slop in them. Has to be the knuckle. Does this bother anybody else?

Re: Bruiser 2012 front wheel slop
 

I have yet to build my truck. I am buying upgraded parts before I start. I was thinking of RC4WD Yota axles front and rear but not sure yet.

Re: Bruiser 2012 front wheel slop
 

If you end up using the stock knuckles, let me know how yours are. I looked at mine again lastnight, because it's bugging the heck out of me. The 1680 (BB9) bearing that rests on the front knuckle is sloppy and it could be tighter inside the black spacer (G1) that fits in the wheel hub.

I'm thinking about trying these to see if the tolerenes are any tighter.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps8aafc06a.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps0fef526d.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...psde49002a.jpg

Re: Bruiser 2012 front wheel slop
 

Did you powder coat your axles or is that paint? Looks very nice!! Yeah I am not sure when I will start my build but hope soon. I am probably going to use the stock axle housings for now because I don't know exactly which RC4WD ones to buy. :D

Oh and is your hardware all stock or did you buy new screws? Your chassis looks great!

Re: Bruiser 2012 front wheel slop
 

How strong/durable are the re-re axle assemblies?
I want to get my OG up and running again, but had issues when was new, with a broken front shaft and a housing at the knuckle, etc. with modern sticky tires and better batterys, 30yr old parts, locked front hubs, I am very concerned that It will fail again soon.
The new axles have a better pivot, and replacement parts are available, Are they a good option to swap over to?

Re: Bruiser 2012 front wheel slop
 

They say the Yota axles from RC4WD fit but maybe only the new Bruisers. I bought the RC4WD hex conversion kit so I can mount some better rims and tires. I am not sure if the hex conversion will add any beef to the front end or not. 12mm Hex conversion kit for Tamiya Bruiser 2012

Re: Bruiser 2012 front wheel slop
 

I think these will fit the new Bruiser if you buy their leafs and mounts.

Yota Ultimate Scale Cast Axle (Front)

Yota Ultimate Scale Cast Straight Axle (Rear)

On their website it says:
Notes:
You can fit this axle onto the New Tamiya Bruiser with Z-S0221 and Z-S0518
https://store.rc4wd.com/Soft-Steel-L...r-2_p_347.html
https://store.rc4wd.com/Yota-Axle-Sh...-x4_p_993.html

Re: Bruiser 2012 front wheel slop
 

I'm using Black Oxide 3mm button heads with the matching lock nuts and 3mm fiber washers so I don't mark anything!

I wiped them down with liquid sandpaper, gave them a couple light coats of Tamiya metal primer then several very light misty coats of Krylon satin. Seems to be holding up well. It won't see much run time :)

Re: Bruiser 2012 front wheel slop
 

I've been running the new axles with locked diffs under brushless power with no breakage whatsoever ever. You can check my Bruiserado build out on scale4x4, I have a couple videos posted.
As for the sloppy front wheels I've noticed this also. I ended up lock titing the m3 nuts as it seems they constantly back off. This has helped to bring the slop back to what I can deem acceptable. But still a bit on the sloppy side.

Re: Bruiser 2012 front wheel slop
 

Thanks Prop Shaft, at least I'm not the only one that noticed this. It really surprises me that Tamiya couldn't get this right.

Re: Bruiser 2012 front wheel slop
 

Dredging up an ooollld, thread.

I just built mine, and did some running, noticed the slop right away. I hate slop like this. On breaking the assembly down, I noticed that tightening the hell out of the 3mm hex, makes no difference, when it should. Then I realised that the half-shaft, that connects to the inner axle shaft...is too long. If you look at that shaft in your last pic, the flats that go through the hub, are not deep enough. I didn't want to get the grinder out, so instead, I put shims behind the drive cup, to 'pull' the flats back towards the axle. It has worked but you cannot tighten down that 3mm nut on the hub. You need to do it up enough so that there is pressure on the hub bearing, and the inner bearing. Its go rid of the slop, but now I need to get a servo mounted up front in order to remove the steering slop. I am sure an aluminium bell crank would minimise that, but not cure it.

Re: Bruiser 2012 front wheel slop
 

Might give this a try - what thickness/size shims ended up working for you?