Bruiser & RC4WD axles

[Thump Wallop]

Hey all,

I am wanting to do a bruiser, lowered and with scale-ish stance. I need to know which axles from RC4WD are the correct ones to use. There are a few threads on this, but no clear solution on parts to order. There are Yota Axles, Yota 2 Axles and Bruiseruptor options.

I believe the bruiseruptor ones are the same spec as the originals, so one of the Yota options seems the best.
Then, some of them mention you need to get the u-bolt setup parts as well. Confused.

I know the RC4WD axles are not built to last, but I am not going to be abusing them....much. Ideally I would prefer to run the truck with an open diff at the front, but I would trade that for a nicer stance.
I will lower the body a bit as well so that the truck looks less like a monster truck

Appreciate any help.

[jrkilburn]

The Bruiseruptor axles have the correct spring perch placement for the bruiser. As far as I can tell that is the difference in them.

[redjones]

Jr is correct. Regular yota axles work for the fronts

[Thump Wallop]

Thanks for the replies gents.

So what you are saying is that I need a Bruiseruptor for the rear, and then a Yota axle for the front? If so, which one? Bear in mind I am also trying to have the axles the same width and avoid the Bruiser rear axle being wider.

Regards

[Thump Wallop]

Ah, I see the bruiseruptor, Yota 2 front and Yota 2 rear are all just under 180mm hex to hex. So they all have the same dimesions, apart from the rear which has the correct spacing of the mounting points.
Bruiseruptor is discontinued though....dammit.

[Thump Wallop]

I have heard of the rummy modifications, but I don't know the details. Before I go ahead and order the RC4WD units, please can you explain further and possibly take some pictures.
I have seen some mods to the rear axles that involve cutting the cases down, drilling new pin holes and turning a new thread on the shortened shafts. I assume this is the same/similar mod? I am probably going to give this a go on the new bruiser axles, but I want an alternative in case I screw it up.

[redjones]

You are correct. There is a lot of machine work involved.

[badhoopty]

please keep offers to buy and sell in the appropriate sections or via pm, thanks.

btw rc4wd bruiserruptor and the old rc4wd yota axles have a bigger diameter than the newer yota2's. if it were me id consider a set of yota2s and use ubolts and a fabbed spring perch for the wider spring mounts on the rear.

[badhoopty]

^i forgot to clarify the older yotas have a bigger axle tube diameter than the yota2s

[AJ.]

You could also flatten your rails, narrow or make new cross members and run Yota II's front and rear.

This is how the chassis under my YJ BRUTE is set up and it works great.

It was set up by 1BadJeepBruiser. Clone to the 3rd power